Dai Fledermaus Posted November 3, 2013 Share Posted November 3, 2013 The construction as you can see is very similar. Perhaps this will help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted November 3, 2013 Author Share Posted November 3, 2013 It is very similar, that picture does help a lot thanks! I will be back to building later this evening and hope to figure out everything up to the nose including battery tray and motor mounting. I will post some pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted November 3, 2013 Share Posted November 3, 2013 Whatever way you do it the wing dowel needs to go in something strong or be bound to the former with wire. Good idea to drill dowel holes in balsa now using sharpened ( internally) brass tube of same size as dowel.Also good idea to put tiny holes for the securing wire in the former now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bearair Posted November 3, 2013 Share Posted November 3, 2013 Jusu knocked up a bit to show how it will look, although somewhat better than mine I hope! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted November 3, 2013 Author Share Posted November 3, 2013 Ahh yes, that's it ! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dai Fledermaus Posted November 3, 2013 Share Posted November 3, 2013 Posted by kc on 03/11/2013 13:15:31: Whatever way you do it the wing dowel needs to go in something strong or be bound to the former with wire. Good idea to drill dowel holes in balsa now using sharpened ( internally) brass tube of same size as dowel. Also good idea to put tiny holes for the securing wire in the former now. I think kc you are assuming the former F3 is ply. It isn't, its made up of balsa strips. I reinforced the inside of the doubler with a gusset of thin ply to give support to the dowel Edited By Colin Ashman on 03/11/2013 16:42:45 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted November 4, 2013 Author Share Posted November 4, 2013 I didn't get as much done as I wanted this evening. I have modified the cabin sides and built F3 and F4 and I have revised the battery position. I will use a flat battery tray. Once the rear motor shaft has been cut down and a 4mm ply F2 installed there will be plenty of room for the ESC and to be able to move the battery about to get the C of G sorted. There will be a battery hatch in the top of the nose secured with magnets. Not glued in place yet, I have the doublers to install up to the nose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 Colin, you are right - I did assume the former was made of ply. Your thin ply gusset seems a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted November 8, 2013 Author Share Posted November 8, 2013 Just a small update, long hours at work this week has prevented building I have done some careful measuring and have decided to reduce the dihedral in both wings to 2 degrees, this should make the wing tips 1/2" off the building board. I have also worked out the position and angles for the motor mounting (a modified F2), I just need to cut the mount from 4mm ply. Here is a quick picture of the formers and fuselage sides glued together Everything looks square, the ends of the tail meet up and are level so I consider it good progress! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted November 11, 2013 Author Share Posted November 11, 2013 Well this thread has 1463 views so somebody must be reading it other than me After some careful measuring I have made and dry fitted the motor mount F2. First I made the 3/8" doublers and then marked the position of F2 so it is in the correct position with down and right thrust. I then cut a slot down the sides of the doublers to allow F2 to slide down into place and be fixed securely. I think this works quite well and should provide a nice firm fixing. The position of the motor X mount is marked, notice it is 2mm off centre to allow for the right thrust of the motor. You can see the thrust angle a bit better here. The sides of the fuselage come up higher than the doublers because I am installing a top hatch for access to the LiPo, on the original plans the whole top of the engine and fuel tank area is open. I am doing the design changes "one the fly" so hence the slight mistake with the cross strut over the top of F3 in the picture. Edited By WolstonFlyer on 11/11/2013 00:47:16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Bennett Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 looking interesting sir. i am watching and enjoying the build. Edited By Tony Bennett on 11/11/2013 09:27:12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John F Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 I am definitely looking, have subscribed to help my Tinker build that I'll be starting soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Lighten Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 Anyone adding ailerons to their Tinker? what would the consensus be as to the dihedral angle change? I'm reckoning about 1 - 1 1/2 degrees - but that is just my feeling (should look right), not any deep and meaningful aerodynamic reasoning! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted November 18, 2013 Author Share Posted November 18, 2013 Hi Ken Yes I am adding Ailerons to my Tinker although I have not started making the wings yet. After getting information from Eddie at DB sport and scale I am making the dihedral in both wings 2 degrees, this should make the wing tips 1/2" off the building board. I carefully marked out some lines in pencil on the plan and have drawn up a new set of dihedral braces and root rib angle template. I am working at home today and spent my lunch hour installing the motor mount and F2 into the fuselage I will post a picture later tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted November 18, 2013 Author Share Posted November 18, 2013 Thanks for following along Tony and John Posts on here might be sporadic, I am a bit snowed under at work at the moment - I did get in a sneaky hour in my lunch break today Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John F Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 I will be adding ailerons to the Tinker Major, as soon as I can start to build! Might be a while as I need to weatherproof the garage before I start! It kinda leaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Bennett Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 my garage is dray and warm. it's a good build WF, thats why i am following. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted November 18, 2013 Author Share Posted November 18, 2013 Here is a quick picture of the motor mount, it is now epoxied in place but the motor prop driver looks to be exit the nose in the middle when I offer it up. There is quite a bit of down and right thrust on this model so the T nuts for the motor X mount are right at the very top of the 4mm ply former. P.S Notice how the picture is in focus BEB and I am using my camera phone hand held - you need to splash out a few pounds on a new camera Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Lighten Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 Cheers for that Wolstenflyer, 2 degrees it is then (should have asked Eddie at DB myself), just ordered my wood so will get cracking with it when it arrives - I'm going with a .40 IC with mine, and bolt on wings (don't like bands) Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted November 18, 2013 Author Share Posted November 18, 2013 Are you building the larger Tinker Major Ken? I am not sure that a .40 will fit in the 45" version, it is quite a light weight build as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Lighten Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 Yes, its the Tinker Major, plan says 25-40, I've got an Irvine .40 lined up for it, although I also have a OS 32 that is also a candidate, either should be more than adequate Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted November 20, 2013 Author Share Posted November 20, 2013 Hi Ken, I thought a .40 would be a bit big for the smaller Tinker I would guess that the same amount of dihedral in the Tinker Major would be OK but you might want to check with Eddie. As there is no mention on where to install servo's or radio gear on the Tinker plan or included build notes (they do mention a rubber escapement - not sure what that is? ) - I thought I would install a servo and radio tray somewhere in the middle of the fuselage. This is what I have come up with made from what I think is 2mm Birch ply, it is big enough for my two Turnigy TGY-90S metal gear servos and there is plenty of space for a Spektrum AR400 Receiver and to route the wires. I might drill some holes in it to allow cable ties to hold all of the wires down. The servo's will be back to back and the snakes will be installed in holes drilled through the uprights in former F5 where the end of the snake outer will be glued in place. I also need to add a bit of scrap 3/16" balsa in the fuselage sides where the snakes will exit. Sorry if this thread has turned into my build blog - I didn't intend it that way but it seemed a bit silly to start another thread. If anybody else has started building their Tinker it would be great so see some pictures of your build . I am no expert at this building lark, I am basically making it up as I go along Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted November 20, 2013 Author Share Posted November 20, 2013 Finally for tonight I have added some thin ply (less than 1mm thick) hard points where the dowel rods will be located for the wing bands. I did consider bolting the wings on but I will crash / cartwheel this model at some point and banded on wings might help reduce the damage ( I "still" need to get my A-Test) . Using bands will also keep the retro / vintage look of the model Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 Posted by WolstonFlyer on 18/11/2013 17:31:51: P.S Notice how the picture is in focus BEB and I am using my camera phone hand held - you need to splash out a few pounds on a new camera What? And risk losing my street cred! Never! Anyway I'm all sorted now that Danny's told me how to turn the flash on - as you will see shortly once I get the day job under control! BEB PS I'll let you into a secret - I don't have, or intend to have, a mobile phone. I also discourage my nearest and dearest from using them. The last thing I need in life is an electro-magnetic radiation source right next to my brain! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 21, 2013 Share Posted November 21, 2013 I have been itching to see these new pics BEB. Looks great WF you didn't need anybody to show you how to put this one together My one concern is watch the weight, all these little bits of ply and t nuts all add up. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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