The Tinker bi-plane hangar

[Danny Fenton]

Hi Darlo, I built a Tinker many moons ago and enjoyed the build and the flying. I didn't fit ailerons as it was a hoot as it was, and with the recomaneded dihedral it turned fine.

Ken has shown that the tops of F4 and F5 will also need modifying with the same angle as you make the dihedral braces.

I guess I better throw my lot in on the building board front. I use a thick section of nice flat MDF and onto that I have glued laminate floor underlay which is like a dense foam/insulation. Pins go in very easily, I am not to happy to hear of people using such force to push the pins in that the heads come off, or even the suggestion of using screws to hold spars straight, sounds a little drastic to me.

I will get on with my non aileron, diesel Tinker as soon as the board is clear of a Bistormer

Cheers

Danny

[kc]

The beauty of this forum is you get various methods to build models. You can be sure they all work, it's just up to the individual to choose which is best for them.
Actually the glass headed pins I used didnt take much thumb pressure at all to shatter. The screws and clips were first used to secure spruce spars which dont take pins easily,then I found they worked well for balsa. They go nicely into plasterboard which may be considered expendable as its just free offcuts.
It's much easier to build a model exactly as the designer intended especially for a first model. As Danny has confirmed it works well without ailerons I would stick to that

[Darlo0161]

Thanks for all the feedback.

I should clarify, the foam is a poster board thing,very dense not like a polystyrene, but I have a couple of plasterboard offcuts anyway so I may use that.

Thanks for the aerilon advice, I may build as is or flatten the dihedral. I like the idea of having a full model but I will have a think.

Thanks again and keep all the pics and tips coming, I've got the discussion bookmarked.

[Ken Lighten]

As a footnote to the picture of the formers being assembled, I was confused by the material thicknesses quoted on the drawing for F4, 1/4 sheet for the uprights and 3/16 for the cross piece infill, if you measure the former thickness on the fuselage side view, the uprights are nearer to 3/16 so that is what I've gone with assuming a typo error on the drawing for the former uprights.

Darlo,

I contacted DB sports regarding the dihedral change (a previous posting covers it) and to calculate the change for the formers and braces I simply draw a line the correct length of the wing (on the back of the plan usualy), mark another line at the tip position for the change in block height at right angles, then complete the triangle root to tip and use the resulting angle at the root to alter the parts (I'm rubbish at trigonometry hence the 'non-calculation' method!)

Ken

[WolstonFlyer]

That is how I have worked out the new dihedral Ken, much easier just to draw it on the plan.

Well after a considerable gap in building over Christmas and January (no time due to changing jobs), I am back at the building board. Today I joined the fuselage sides at the tail, installed the snake outers, servo and receiver tray and closed in the windscreen area.

Next I am onto the front, get the motor installed, battery tray and install F1. I might get that done tonight.

One quick question... should the wing dowels be glued in or left as a tight fit so they can be replaced?

[WolstonFlyer]

Hi everybody, I have got on to making the tail feathers, here is my progress with the horizontal stab. This is the first built up tail that I have ever done compared to the all sheet tail on my as yet unfinished Tucano

and about 2 hours later after a bit of razor planing and sanding.

(sorry it's not a very god picture)

On the plan is shows two strips of 1/8" x 3/16" in the middle to act as a fin support and also similar two strips on the under side to push up against the fuselage sides... is that all there is holding the tail onto the model, I guess it is all strong enough when glued in place? Also do I cover the tail before fixing it on to the fuselage?

[jeff2wings]

That's very neat work WF ,well done re; wing dowels ,if you do decide to glue them in, do it after covering the fuz, so much easier , I would glue the t/p on and cover but others would not ! no right or wrong here,it's up to you

[WolstonFlyer]

Thank you jeff2wings

I have also found time to build the vertical and test fit the bits.... it works

Edited By WolstonFlyer on 09/02/2014 22:14:04

[kc]

Looking back through this thread I noticed that it was suggested that the top 1/4 sq strip needed steaming to curve to shape. It seems to me to be easier to cut a curved strip from a piece of 1/4 sheet using the fuselage sides as a template. It seems a little more wasteful but the offcut may be used elsewhere and anyway strip is dearer than sheet.
Or even to laminate two pieces of 1/8 by 1/4 to the curved shape. Laminating is probably better but a little more time consuming and more to go wrong.
Maybe this will help new builders.

[Danny Fenton]

Lovely neat building WF well done

Cheers

Danny

[WolstonFlyer]

Thanks Danny

Kc - I didn't bend, steam or laminate the top strips, it is quite a gentle curve and they stop short of the very tight curve of the cabin top as this is cut into the 1/4 sheet that forms the cabin sides. I think I just glued the top strips on with cyno starting at the tail and working forwards up to where they join the cabin.... or perhaps my fuselage top sides are not as curved as they should be? You can see them in the top post on page 3 of this thread: **Link**

Edited By WolstonFlyer on 10/02/2014 18:55:16

[kc]

I had the same sort problem curve in a completely different model & was just commenting on the item Ken posted on 26 Jan when he said he steamed the curve into the wood. He was concened not to build in any stress. Of course it all depends on the particular piece of balsa used, some will bend easily, some will be firm. That's why it is very handy to have extra wood so the firmest pieces are used where they are needed ( wing spars etc) and the soft bendable bits used where they are needed.
As long as the curves are equal and look right that's all that matters on the fuselage top.

[John F]

With what is going on in my life and the lack of time to get my A certificate I might not be able to fly the Tinker Major at Greenacres. I am thoroughly enjoying the build blogs though, lovely work.

[Mark Kettle 1]

Always like the model - got a plan I think I will build on myself

[WolstonFlyer]

Go for it Mark, and welcome to the forum!

[Danny Fenton]

Yep as WF says, have a go Mark, it s nice simple build if you don't bother with ailerons, and you will get plenty of help if you need it on the forum

Cheers

Danny

[Darlo0161]

Hi all

I've got my plan got my timber, got a board and all my tools and I'm ready top start building (late I know)

Superglue or wood glue ? I'm thinking stick with super and then coat with PVA...is this overkill ?

I've been looking at images...do I pin through the wood or around the wood ?

As always, advice welcome.

[WolstonFlyer]

Hi, it is great to get another builder

I have mainly been using CA (superglue) on my build with a bit of Aliphatic (yellow wood glue) as it sands smooth much nicer than PVA. PVA tends to be a bit rubbery and gums up the sandpaper.

I tend to pin each side of my bits of wood, I don't like all of the holes!

[John F]

Howdy Darlo, As WF says PVA is rubbery but wiping it onto a joint already glued won't do anything to that joint.

Most builders use balsa cement, superglue for speed or Aliphatic Resin (which makes a very strong bond). Pinning through the wood will hold it in place but also leaves holes, not much of an issue if you're covering though.

This is a good thread re glues: **LINK** or here : **LINK**

Edited By John F on 26/02/2014 13:39:55

[WolstonFlyer]

I have not forgotten my build - have been very busy with work and other things. I got a whole 4 hours of building time today so cracked on with the wings!

The 1" triangle stock makes nice wing tips when sanded to shape

The plywood braces were a pain to cut, I must get a Proxxon mini table saw if I am going to do more building

It does actually fit! Phew, this is my first every built up wing so I am glad it has turned out OK

On to the lower set

I am fitting Ailerons to this model.... but this is where I now get stuck because I don't know what I am doing! I have reduced the dihedral to 3 degrees and I think the ailerons will be 4 rib bays long, but do I go right up to the wing tip rib or do I come in by 1 rib. Also how wide should I make them, I was thinking perhaps half the distance between the trailing edge and the rear spar, which would make the aileron 2" deep.

Does anybody have any pictures of built up ailerons that they could PM to me with details of how they are built and hinged? Thanks

[john stones 1 - Moderator]

Tidy building that W.F.

Had a 3 channel one 30 odd years ago, so i'll leave advice to someone else.

4 ailerons, or just top or bottom wing ?

John

[WolstonFlyer]

Thanks John

Ailerons just on the bottom wing, I think that would be enough.

[john stones 1 - Moderator]

No ones said anything yet mate so i'll start you off

If it was mine I would use the 5 outer bays as strip ailerons, put a leading edge infront of the trailing edge you have built, to hinge to 1/4 or 3/8 strip. then cut the trailing edge of and add end ribs. Its either that or the outer 4 with deeper inset ones.

John.

[Danny Fenton]

Sorry guys I had said i would build one of these but time has got the better of me. I hadn't expected the BiStormer to take so long.

You could look at how the Barnstormer/Bistromer guys have built the ailerons? And yes i would agree lower wing ailerons only would be sufficient, the Bistormer are only on the bottom and the amount of deflection used is really tiny most of the time.

Cheers

Danny

[john stones 1 - Moderator]

Sounds good to me W.F

Both D.B's why didn't we think of that