Lindsay Todd Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 The track looks way to narrow BEB, hope that's not to plan, will ground loop like a whotsit like that, the original wheels are the smaller flair items. Linds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Personally BEB, this model is really starting to look like a classic and it would be a shame to "snoopify it" with wheels as daft as that. i reckon it will get off the ground so quickly that ground handling won't be a real issue anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 don't like em BEB spoked ones, you just said you liked bespoke things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted February 10, 2014 Author Share Posted February 10, 2014 I'll check tomorrow Linds - but as far as I know I made the U/C to plan. But you're right - I'll have a right job on my hands trying to keep it straight on take off. I don't like the wheels either! I'll have to buy some - have you seen the price of spoked wheels John? Megabucks! BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted February 10, 2014 Author Share Posted February 10, 2014 Just ordered some smaller wheels BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 What a relief, I was starting to think you weren't well. Just because you've got them, don't go sticking them on the Typhoon either. I might never recover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vecchio Austriaco Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 I think 3 inch would suit it better - and they are still big enough to handle the average strip. By the way - didn't find any proper wheels around here - ordered them in the US - price very reasonable, delivery in less than a week.... Where did you order the wheels BEB? VA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devcon1 Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 BEB, I need to go and check my undercarriage (that I finished last night), but It may be the size of the wheels making the track look disproportionately narrow. I like the paint job on them but they would be better being a bit smaller, you could always splay the legs out a little bit and resolve the possible narrow track problem. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devcon1 Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 BEB, Just measured mine and it will be about 9 inches when finished. Pics John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 Mmmm, measured the track on mine John and only 8" at a push . I'll have a think and a look once the new wheels arrive I might have to make a new undercart. Tonight I've been tidying a few details up. I've added a triangular fillet strip either side of the firewall - just to add a little strength. Then I went on a bit of a soldering spree - the current sensor you can see in my previous post has XT60 connectors - it goes between the battery and the ESC. All my batteries have 4mm bullets - so a change over is needed. TBH I've been contemplating changing over to XT60's for a while - so I suppose this is the impetus to do so. So I put an XT60 on the ESC and re-soldered new connections on a couple of 3s 2200's as a start in that process. Then did a quick check by connecting the Rx up and testing the power train - battery, ESC and motor. All worked fine the motor goes in the right direction and it makes a nice change not to have to reverse the throttle! Viva Taranis! Next up I decided to try and see how all this will fit up-front, not fixed in at this point - really just bundled in to try the fit,... OK it fits - but not much room to spare - I'll have to be a bit canny here. From above, we can see the battery just fits nicely with respect to the servo mounting board,... We'll put a bit of dense foam at that rear gap just to hold the battery forward. Finally, with the hatch in place,... Fits in place nicely with the nose ring just flush. The magnets click it into place with a vigour that encourages you to keep your fingers out of the way! BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devcon1 Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 BEB, whats your COG looking like ?John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 Not sure yet John. Everything heavy is about as far forward as I can get it! But without the wheels I can't really check yet. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Fontana Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 Hi, BEB. Many thanks for such a detailed build thread which is helping me enormously in my first ever build. Can I ask a couple of questions? 1) When you fashioned the post of the fin to fit into the tailplane, did you cut a piece off the base of the fin just leaving the post, or did you add another piece of balsa to the base of the fin, shaped to form the post? 2) Can you give an indication for the undercarriage of how far below the fuselage the axles for the wheels are positioned, just to give me an idea of dimensions for the U/C? Thanks Edited By John Fontana on 12/02/2014 12:26:13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 I know this is a bit late in the day.... but here's an old luthier's trick ... Oil the wood first with Danish oil. let it dry overnight, and stain it the following day. Then lacquer it accordingly... That way it will be less patchy as it will not soak into any end grain, and go very dark. Saturate in stain, and wipe off - and you will get some control over the depth of finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted February 12, 2014 Author Share Posted February 12, 2014 Thanks for that Stevo, I shall get myself a flagon of Danish Oil from B&Q tomorrow John, to answer your two questions: 1. the spigot on the end of the fin is part of the fin post - it was cut longer. Its not joined on. The picture below should show what I mean,... Regarding the U/C - well I've decided to bin mine. I need more track width and I also want a bit more height for prop clearance. So I've started making up a new one. The main legs of the new one are made from a piece of piano wire 39cm long. The centre section is 7cm wide. the legs are 10cm long. The axles are 6cm each - they will obviously be trimmed but it better to make them a bit longer than you think you will need. I've bent that up, and the trailing arm, made from a piece 33cm long. I've not soldered it together yet as my women folk have become a bit "nervy" thanks to the howling gale we are experiencing here next to the Irish Sea and wanted my presence in the house! Sometimes a chap has to do what a chap has to do. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 look after the women folk in BEB castle Dave......... I keep having a look at your build workshop here and I'm impressed by your progress and as usual -good info for fellow builder's.......well done ... ken Anderson ne..1 ......... forum monitoring dept. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 Hi Dave when it comes to using Danish oil its best applied with a rag and don't get talked into using tongue oil as it's far to oily for this job and you will be waiting days if not weeks for it to dry adequately though if you want to preserve oak, well tongue oil is far better on its own, it doesn't take stain to well, and its food safe too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 Yes I forgot to say apply with a rag!!I think youll find its tung oil... usually for outdoor stuff if I remember.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 dooh your right Stevo can't even blame it on a typo lol though not strictly outdoor as it is also used a lot on natural wood kitchen work surfaces Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 Well I've finished the new undercarriage - much better track now 10.5", that makes more sense. The new wheels have arrived and here they are temporarily fitted,... I think that looks rather better. With the wheels on I added the wing, prop and prop nut and took a look at the CoG so far. And its spot on the money at the moment. I have a few things to add - pilot, wheel collets, Rx, control wires for the rudder, aileron push rods, ailerons and of course covering for the wing. But most of them will be positioned around the CoG or quite close to it, so I can't see any of them pushing it wildly out. Well done Lyndsay! Install the Rx and the rudder control wires next. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devcon1 Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 BEB, It's looking good, what are you going to use to retain the wheels. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 Probably just collets John - nothing fancy. Unless I can't find any collets - in which case it will be split pins through a bit of brass tube. Unless I can't find the split pins - then it'll be a tinned washer quickly touched with a soldering iron! BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted February 15, 2014 Author Share Posted February 15, 2014 Lots of bits and pieces done today. I've fitted the closed loop system for the rudder,... This photo was taken just after installation - before it had been centred and adjusted. These wires need to be tight enough so there is no slack - or we will get flutter - but they don't need to be "guitar string" tight! A dull thwuck" sound when you pluck it, definitely not a "ping"! Next up I installed a support plate for the battery,... This plate is not full width so as to aid air flow. The ESC is located beneath this plate. I've fitted a velcro strip to the plate to stop the battery sliding. Velcro straps aren't needed as the battery is a nice snug fit, there is no where for it to move up and down to! Time to install the Rx,... The Rx is fixed to the fuselage side with double sided tape. The black box above the Rx is one of the pcb amplifiers on the aerials. The coiled cables are the rudder and elevator servo leads. The cable tied "Futaba leads" going out of the top of the picture are the aileron connections. The twisted cable passing through the lower left corner is the telemetry cable from the current sensor. Here's another view showing the other pcb amp, located at right angles to the first,... These aerials are fixed in with double-sided tape as well. So, with all this in place we can test the radio-link, set up the rudder centring and test the "sticky T-cut" facility in Taranis! I'm happy to report all seems to be well. Last, but not least, I've painted the wheels up. The paint is B&Q emulsion from tester pots, iced lemon" and "classic red"! I bought about a dozen of these little pots in various colours when they were on special offer a while ago and they have proved to be very handy for small paint jobs like this. The only problem of course is that emulsion is not very durable or particularly waterproof. But a couple of coats of sprayed on clear PU varnish (gloss in this case) soon sorts that. Looking quite smart I think,.... Fix those wheels on next, then its back to the wing to finish that off. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 Very nice Dave, but still no clue as to the pending treatment of the cowl you tease Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted February 16, 2014 Author Share Posted February 16, 2014 Ah Phil - there has to be an interest angle! I've been thinking that I haven't updated the tool list recently and during the recent tasks I have been using a few additional tools. Now most of these are not by any means essential but they don't cost much and they are very handy. First things for gripping and retrieving bits and pieces,... Curved and straight forceps and some tweezers. Great for feeding servo leads via tortuous routes through the model and indispensable for recovering M3 nuts that you have dropped into the fuselage! The forceps - along with some reversed tweezers I have - are also handy for holding small things while you work on them - see next post for an example. Next up calipers,... Now these are really useful. I very rarely measure anything - because its too prone to error, you'd be amazed how easy it is to misread a rule. I find its much more reliable to transfer any length I need to know via these calipers - far less chance of error. They are also handy when you need to make something to fit inside say the fuselage - like the battery shelf yesterday. You can't get a rule in there - but a pair of calipers, no problem. The best place to buy these sorts of tools is from a tool stall at a show - always cheaper that you will find them in a hardware store. While you are there get yourself a pair of vernier calipers as well. Very handy. Next a small pair of snips. Precision tool - great for nipping out wire, sheet metal etc.,.... Finally, a fibreglass pencil,... These are another example of a tool that isn't essential, but is very handy. You use it to burnish up metal - very useful when soldering etc to clean up small parts thoroughly and quickly with no residue. Yes, you could use a piece of emery or the like, but this is very convenient. Next we'll look at today's progress. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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