Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 Well one thing is for sure you can't just leave the back end like that - that arrangement will not give you any torsional stiffness in the tail. Bending will be OK but it will twist too easily. You could add the "proper" lattice in addition - but that might make the back end a bit heavy and the model already has a bit of a tendency that way! If it was me TBH I would remove those by carefully cutting them out and redo it with the pukha lattice. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darran Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 Posted by Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 09/03/2014 22:29:34: Well one thing is for sure you can't just leave the back end like that - that arrangement will not give you any torsional stiffness in the tail. Bending will be OK but it will twist too easily. You could add the "proper" lattice in addition - but that might make the back end a bit heavy and the model already has a bit of a tendency that way! If it was me TBH I would remove those by carefully cutting them out and redo it with the pukha lattice. BEB Yes I think your right. Adding the proper lattice was what I was going to do anyway, but I am concerned about the weight etc. so I will cut them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Fairgrieve Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 Darren if you look at Lindsay`s original build thread he also has the vertical`s all be it in only one position. Look at theses pictures, in post 21 Like BEB says, I would remove them and carry on. I should add that originally I to did the same and then removed the two extra one`s Kev Edited By Kevin Fairgrieve on 09/03/2014 22:40:53 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darran Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 Ok as glue had yet to dry fully I have managed to quite easily remove these with the aid of a sharp blade . Panic over back to the lattice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darran Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 Also really struggling to get F5A to stay in place at the angle shown on the plan. Cannot seem to get a strong hold to glue it in place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Barlow Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 Looking very good for a first build. I glued in an extra piece of 1/4 sq between the longerons of the rear frame under F5a to give it a bit more glue area. Also when it came to the wing rear former I fitted a balsa fillet sanded to the correct angle to add more support. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darran Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 Tonight I spent an hour trying to position F5A. Hopefully when all is dry tomorrow I will have it correct. Don't know why but this was the most difficult bit so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darran Posted March 11, 2014 Author Share Posted March 11, 2014 Managed to get F5A in place and restarted the lattice work. Yeh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devcon1 Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 Darran, Well done, persevere and you will be rewarded, hope it all looks good in the morning. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darran Posted March 13, 2014 Author Share Posted March 13, 2014 Lattice work now complete. Next to sheet the tail top Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darran Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 Right I have paused in the build this week been busy working and generally running around. But it has given me time to think about the things I don't yet have to complete the build etc. I also have a couple of questions I need to find answers to. Firstly on the colour of the woodwork. I want to stain this quite a light colour, but not sure as to if I need any special type of wood stain etc. can I use normal exterior word stain. Also I read in BEB'S blog the use of Danish oil before applying the stain to give a better finish, so I might give that a go. Once stained the next question is how to seal it to protect it from the elements etc. do I just use wood varnish for this purpose if so what type. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Fairgrieve Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 I went for a "Antique Pine" stain from B&Q. (Other DIY stores available!) It turned out a little darker than I was after, but not a disaster. To protect it I used "PolyC" Hope that helps. Kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darran Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 A few tail pieces started last night to get things moving again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Barlow Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 I used Rustins light oak wood stain and to give some hardness and strength to the balsa especially the lattice work I gave it a coat of epoxy finishing resin before sanding and a final topcoat of clear gloss fuel proof varnish. You can see the shade and lightness of the light oak stain in my build blog here **LINK** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darran Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 Posted by Chris Barlow 1 on 15/03/2014 20:37:58: I used Rustins light oak wood stain and to give some hardness and strength to the balsa especially the lattice work I gave it a coat of epoxy finishing resin before sanding and a final topcoat of clear gloss fuel proof varnish. You can see the shade and lightness of the light oak stain in my build blog here **LINK** Wow thats a really nice looking model you have built there. I especially love the brass cover on the front. The colour of the stain is just what I was looking for. Is the wing and tail cover antique solartex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 I used Antique Pine - the same as Kevin's - and the protective layer is a clear, spirit based, gloss polyurethane varnish. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lindsay Todd Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 Maybe my use of mahogany hid some of the potential issues but that is a beautiful finish you have achieved there, my original is going to look so shabby . Linds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darran Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 With all the tail pieces glued and shaped I have turned my attentions to buildings the first wing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darran Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share Posted March 17, 2014 Ok so I found a colour and tested it on a scrap piece of sheeting. I like it. I have also ordered some solartex for the tail and to practice while I build up the wings. Now I need some advice on lettering on wings etc. I want to add lettering to the tail and the side of the fus. What's the best way of doing this. Would water based transfers applied before the sealing coat be the way for the fus and what about the tail or possibly even on the wing covering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darran Posted March 18, 2014 Author Share Posted March 18, 2014 The wing brace has now been installed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 The DF is a nice build and very well thought out, but its true to say that its a bit of a tricky job the wing brace. Bet you're glad its out the way? Just got the other half to add!! Regarding lettering - the water slide paper that VA recommends on my build blog is probably your best bet Darren. Yes its better if you put a clear coat over it for protection - but remember to test it, especially if your clear varnish is spirit-based rather than water-based. Sometime solvents in spirit-based varnishes can have an unfortunate effect on water slide transfers! BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darran Posted March 18, 2014 Author Share Posted March 18, 2014 Posted by Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 18/03/2014 16:25:25: The DF is a nice build and very well thought out, but its true to say that its a bit of a tricky job the wing brace. Bet you're glad its out the way? Just got the other half to add!! Regarding lettering - the water slide paper that VA recommends on my build blog is probably your best bet Darren. Yes its better if you put a clear coat over it for protection - but remember to test it, especially if your clear varnish is spirit-based rather than water-based. Sometime solvents in spirit-based varnishes can have an unfortunate effect on water slide transfers! BEB So I can transfer the water slide paper transfer on to the solartex covered wing then do I just apply the clear coart over the transfer area or should I cover the whole wing. still trying to decide on what varnish to use to protect the DF with. Are any better than others Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darran Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 Disaster has struck my Dawn Flyer and its terminal. I last night whilst waiting for some things to dry on my wing build decided to strengthen the wing bolt plate by adding a second piece of ply underneath. All went well and I retired to bed with it held in place with a couple of clamps. This morning I lifted the fus and started to remove the first clamp ok, but then dropped the fus from about 4 feet onto my hard floor. This still had the second clamp and the motor fitted and hit the floor with a bang. The upshot is that the right hand fus side has split from F1 to the back end of the of the wing seat before it meets the tail framework. In addition F2 has broken along the right hand side. This is so upsetting there is weeks of work in this already. Now I will have to start over on the fus and tail sections and have to cut all the pieces out. I know its my own fault I dropped it but I am so annoyed Edited By Darran on 23/03/2014 06:50:59 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lindsay Todd Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Darren, so sorry to hear that, but its never terminal, I usually find once I get stuck back into things the pain quickly disappears, keep on smiling these things do happen to us all. Linds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Darren, I'm so sorry to hear that - and it was all going so well. These things happen, but I can understand how upset you must feel. But,...I'm going to give you a stern "talking to"! This is not an ARTF mate - you built it you can repair it! It not something someone gave you, you made it, you can fix it! I couldn't agree with Lynds more on this - have a sit down, a cup tea and then gather up the bits and have a good look at her. Once you start thinking how can I fix this bit or that you'll find its all repairable - and probably much more easily than you suspect. Yes you may have to make the odd replacement part if that's the easiest way - but you have the plan and all the info is there to do that - and you have the skill. Take a look at Dylan's build blog - he sat on his! But he pulled it back - so can you. Look at mine - what a mess the staining was in! But I recovered the situation - so can you. We are builders Darren - there is no such word as "can't" in our vocabulary! So pick yourself up, dust yourself down and get back in the saddle! You'll be twice as proud of her when she back together! BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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