Danny Fenton Posted November 6, 2014 Author Share Posted November 6, 2014 Thanks Barry, I must see if I can dig that copy out from the pile Useful information for the Airsail builders. I will check the incidence on mine too to see how it compares. I have opted for closed loop on the rudder, however the moment arms are short as the fuselage is narrow so it may still be a bit vague, we will see. Just silver soldered a small brass strip to the top of a collet to make a steering bar for the closed loop to attach to. Not happy with weight in the tail like this, but needs must. First of all if you are looking for a 33mm wheel, the closest I could find is this from Giant Shark at 35mm. I can always spin it up and turn it down. Though I dare say after a few landings on tarmac it will be the right size I haven't got the 35mm wheel yet, this is a 30mm one just to get and idea of the sort of bends required. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 Hi Danny Don't assume that 3063 is "Gospel", the tailplane rib spacing is incorrect and the elevator trim tab is one bay too short. Am I having fun sorting this out.. Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 6, 2014 Author Share Posted November 6, 2014 Hi Martyn, no 3 view is right. You will never get anywhere if you don't settle on a 3 view. You build a scale model to a 3 view The 3 view is what you are judged on. All the rib spacing is wrong on 3063 but at least the number are correct. I thought the elevator tab is correct on 3063 its 4 bays wide on full size and 4 bays wide on 3063. Remember the DB Chipmunk as is, is one of the very early 26 I think Colin identified that had two elevator tabs Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 6, 2014 Author Share Posted November 6, 2014 Just to show how little space there is in the tail end, and adding a steerable tailwheel has made the situation worse We have a rudder closed loop to get in there too Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 Posted by Danny Fenton on 06/11/2014 16:55:46: Just to show how little space there is in the tail end, and adding a steerable tailwheel has made the situation worse We have a rudder closed loop to get in there too Cheers Danny Danny, there might be a solution. Braze (or tap and thread) two nuts onto the top of the tail wheel spreader bar then add a bar on top and above the clevis. On this top bar you could braze the rudder control rod. Does this rambling make any sense? If not I could draw something out.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 6, 2014 Author Share Posted November 6, 2014 Nice idea, I know what you mean, and is what BlackHorse do, they continue the tailwheel into the rudder. Unfortunately the two are not on the same axis. There is plenty of room to get another steering arm in there, just wanted to show how tight it is. The big problem is the rudder crank needs the fin and the fin needs the stab, and the fus is in two shells join the shells and you cannot get inside. The sequence of building is critical otherwise you build yourself into a corner, been there got lots of t-shirts I have a plan....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Day Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 Not a cunning one I hope? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 6, 2014 Author Share Posted November 6, 2014 "as cunning as a fox who's just been appointed Professor of Cunning at Oxford University Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Parkinson Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 Hi Danny, ref comments about drawing 3063 (I don't actually know this drawing) and the size of the elevator trim, I am sure you have photos but I have some of both the Cosford Chipmunk and one at Duxford and as you say, it goes out to 4 bays. I would have uploaded them if I could find out how to do it!!!! Barry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 6, 2014 Author Share Posted November 6, 2014 Hi Barry, don't worry we are awash with pictures, several of the builders have been to museums and airfields all over the place grabbing them. Posting photos on this forum is not the easiest, but once mastered its not bad. At least on here the pics cannot dissapear when the user decides to not renew his Flickr account etc. They are held on this system. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 Barry the forum tutorials for things like adding photo's are here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Concorde Speedbird Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 That tailwheel is a work of art! The control line idea is very interesting. I have never seen a model nearly of this size used for control line, have you got a strong arm?! Being electric, do you have a throttle control or just set it at a certain power setting? Keep up the work, this will be a lovely scale model! But I expect that from you now! All the chipmunks look great, I enjoy looking at the threads. CS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 7, 2014 Author Share Posted November 7, 2014 hi CS good to see you are keeping an eye on us. The build is good fun and its great that we are doing it together, good mix of ideas. The throttle is operated by a trigger or slider, so can be used during flight. The flaps and rudder are also functional, they are controlled by switches on the handle. You alter the leadout angle to control the pull. If the lines are brought forward towards c of g then the pull is reduced, you have to tune this to the conditions. too light and the model could fall in on you when doing your high flight upwind (45 degrees) All good fun Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Stratton Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 Hi Danny, I may not have stand yet but I'm following all the Chippie blogs gleaning hints and tips! Your "duel" function revelation and seeing the bell crank has given me an idea, if possible off set and lower the elevator push rod and hopefully the rough sketch will explain the rest! If this is feasible, and the movable bits centralised, would this idea make joining the two fuselage halves together easier also? Your thoughts, reflections and constructional criticisms taken on board gratefully! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 7, 2014 Author Share Posted November 7, 2014 i love the drawing Glenn, and yes that would work, however it would mean redoing what i have done already. but if anybody else fancys this route go for it. the slot would be a challenge for me but a piano wire loop aka the old singlechannel actuator would also work. and yes i usually add springs to closed loop tailwheels, but not rudder so may have to think about that. thanks for Chipping in, great idea, and as you say makes joining halves easier. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 7, 2014 Author Share Posted November 7, 2014 just realised the rudder would move the wrong way! cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Stratton Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 Doh!! Hadn't thought about that, back to the drawing board! Edited By Glenn Stratton on 07/11/2014 22:10:15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 9, 2014 Author Share Posted November 9, 2014 Not had much time to make much progress. I have figured out how to do the finr/rudder two half shell business so we can forge ahead now. I think I must spend more time thinking than buiding at this stage This shot was taken to remind me which side the hinges and nuts and bolts go before I dismantle everything. Then the bottom of the fin post was blocked up to present some snug fit brass tube in the exact plane as the hinge centres. This is important for a free surface. I blocked up around the tube to ensure I could re-allign later, but it is not glued in. Then I bent some piano wire and passed it through some the close fitting tubing. I silver soldered a small brass plate on the end and drilled to allow a small glass board horn plate to be bolted to it. The reason is my Closed loop cables are from Kevlar chord, and the sharp edges of the brass would cutt it, the glass board should not The idea is that the closed loop cables can be attached loose while the two fus laves are joined, and then attached to the servo..... Well that's the plan Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 That's all coming together nicely Danny. Some little wire loops (soldered circles) through the glass board would give you something very smooth to tie the kevlar to. They would turn nicely with the horn movement too. I've also used piano wire "S" shapes to do the same job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 9, 2014 Author Share Posted November 9, 2014 Thanks Chris, I think the kevlar would be fine against the glass board, but you might be right. I allready have 50 of these 5mm split rings coming for the tailwheel horns so may just use two of them on the rudder too. Cheers Danny Edited By Danny Fenton on 09/11/2014 19:05:24 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 Hi Danny, when you fitted the wing to the fuzz the sheeting never matched up, was the problem caused by B3 + B4 or the wing seat cut out on the fuzz ? or put another way if I modify these formers will I get the correct incidence John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 10, 2014 Author Share Posted November 10, 2014 Hi John, I think it was a combination of things, not just B3/B4. With hind sight and thats what I am here for I would leave the underside sheeting off the wing centre section until after you have made the wing fit the fus. I am still not sure if the incidence of the wing is correct on mine, I wont know that until I put a gauge on it. I am afraid it is a bit hit and miss. I have used the side view of the plan to make the wing seats, and when it was proud I took the same amount off on both sides so it "should" be as the plan...... Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 That was my plan Danny thanks, hit n miss is correct I will put ruler on the plan and see what it says John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 11, 2014 Author Share Posted November 11, 2014 Lots of brain work, but not much progress. I have however alligned the tailplane with the wings and glued it to the upper shell, whilst taped to the lower shell. I used the cross point laser level, excellent bit of kit no idea how I managed before, no more squinting from one end of the workshop to the other trying to see if stuff is square Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 Oooh a Chippie and your bench is a mess Nice work Danny John Edited By john stones 1 on 11/11/2014 10:57:22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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