Jump to content

Danny's "poor mans Spitty"


Danny Fenton
 Share

Recommended Posts

Advert


Thought I would go back and look at the rudder next.

Looking at the pics they clearly show that something (probably alloy plate) is sheeted over the top of the rudder, but only back about 2/3rds of the way to the trailing edge. You can make out pop rivets, so I guess it is an alloy skin.

0625 (large).jpg

So once the underlying structure is removed to resemble this more closely the pop rivets need doing....

Cheers

Danny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First of all I added some 1/16 wide strips of PVC tape to act as a foundation, then RCModellers glues was applied via a 30ml bottle with a green syringe needle.

The number of drops (rivets) is not to scale because the rudder shape does not match the drawing crook so I have spaced them as I saw fit embarrassed

0626 (large).jpg

Once they are fully dry then I will add the covering.

Cheers

Danny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Danny,

Have you done anything to the wire on the tail wheel yet? It's something I've never tried to do. Any help would be appreciated.

I've covered the cockpits with the silver tape and am about to have a go at riveting. I did a test piece which turned out ok when painted black and lightly sanded. How did you use the pewter rub?

As you can tell, all this is new to me.

Cheers Charles.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Managed to get the solartex covering on the rudder. With glue dots you have to be very careful when you get heat near them, they tend to flatten. In this instance a littl flattening is okay because these are supposed to be pop rivets under the fabric. They are holding what appears to be a semi transparent section and isn't aluminium sheeting as I supposed.

0627 (large).jpg

Anyway be very gentle with the iron in this neighbourhood With hind sight 5 minute epoxy blobs might have been a better, all beit slower rivet material.

The Chippy is unusual in that it has these rivets under the fabric, that ARE NOT covered in tape. If they were we would apply the glue to the outside of the tex and then add tape. This is why I have done it this way

Hi Charles, the tailwheel is as it was. I wont be doing anything with it until after the epoxy and cloth go on.

The pewter rub was applied very very gently to the end of a cotton bud, then most rubbed off the bud before touching the model. I got a bit carried away sometimes and a rub with your finger or a drop of acetone on the bud will shift it. Make sure the ecetone doesn't take your paint off first!

Let us see some pics as to how you are getting on?

Cheers

Danny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Faffed around for two hours making pockets that will hold the hinges straight, also worked on getting the elevator so that it easily dropped under its own weight. Not important for RC but certainly is for control line! Got there in the end.

0628 (large).jpg

Had hoped to get the elevator trim area done tonight but wont get it done before the glue curfew so am going to call it a night.

Looking at hese pics, going to have to retire this Nikon soon getting very tired, more noise on the sensor than not Maybe Santa will bring me a new one

Cheers

Danny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All the Solartexing is now complete, just the rib tapes to do.

0630 (large).jpg

Will move on to the cowl I think next as I think the fuselage at the front will need rebating so the top of the cowl sits flush with the fuselage whilst the sides and lower sections stand well proud to give cooling airflow from inside the cowling.

Cheers

Danny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rib tapes are a doddle Charles, you will love them. If you want to go mad then you can add the stitching that goes underneath too. I am going to try the method Richard Crapp uses as opposed to glue strips. The scale of the model will dictate if this is worthwhile, so I will do a test first.

Hi Andy I opted to NOT do the trim tab in lith, and have gone for a simple balsa version.Aare you going to be at Clubnight tonight? could bring along my Chippy if you need inspiration?

Just trimmed the cowl and offered it up to the model, be warned the cowl is NOT as long as on the plan, I am only just going to get away with it! So be warned if you have made a bulkhead according to the length of the motor, check the cowl is long enough.

Cheers

Danny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay played with the cowl a bit....

But first for Andy, the trim tab. fairly straight forward stuff really..

0631 (large).jpg

0632 (large).jpg

Nothing at all challenging with that. I am sorry if you were looking forward to the alloy version in lith, but it just didn't warrant the extra work.

Chain drilled the cowl prop opening and air intake, then smoothed the opening with a Drum shaped Permagrit in the Dremel

Made up a temporary 57mm disk to help allign the cowl and tried it against the fus. Due to the cowl only just being longer than the distance from the prop to the bulkhead, I added some balsa stock so that I could form a rebate.

0634 (large).jpg

0635 (large).jpg

I made a sanding block (seem to have made a few more than usual on this build) And made the rbate for the top of the cowl to sit in. This puts the cowl flush with the upper surface of the fuselage.

0639 (large).jpg

The shape of the cowl along the top is not perfect, but I am not prepared to mess around with it its close enough.

0640 (large).jpg

Can you tell what it is yet?

Cheers

Danny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Danny,

Your progress and solutions are really taking away some of my trepidation!

I have a couple of questions. Did you recess the wing further into the fuselage, I seem to remember it being mentioned somewhere? Just interested what the exotic additive to create the epoxy filler you were waiting for was? You were going to use it for the wing fillets, I think.

Regards

Alex

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Alex, yes I moved the wing in the fus a bit, but not nearly enough to get the fillet at the front underside right. I wouldn't go mad here, something is wrong and you may create a rod for your own back just to make underside fillets look more accurate. Probably not worth the effort. If I were to make a guess I would suggest the wing section at the root is wrong and too thick.

The magic substance i was waiting for is Microlight filler from West Systems. I haven't tried it yet as it arrived after i had finished the fairings in blue foam and balsa crook

But there are a lot of fairings around the tailplane and fin that will need sorting after the fuselage is glassed so we can give the stuff a go then.

The small amounts of filler used on the wing fairings just to tidy up was a product that Stevo put me onto some time ago. Its Red Devil "Onetime" lightweight filler. Its very similar to the stuff B and Q sells called Polycell "oneFill" But the Red Devil stuff sticks to balsa nicely and is easy to apply. The Polycell stuff sticks well to everything EXCEPT balsa and can be hard to apply.

0641 (large).jpg

Cheers

Danny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers Danny,

I have used that Red Devil stuff, it is fantastic, it's so light you have to weigh the tub down!

I will look up the West Systems stuff, I do love all the fluff and nonsense you can add to epoxy.

I'll look at the wing height carefully, and make sure I maintain the correct angle of attack relative to the datum.

Thanks

Alex

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...