Nigel Herron Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 ok Master how did we achieve this beautiful little bump please tell before i get to glass the wing ?. Nige H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 13, 2015 Author Share Posted February 13, 2015 What I did was fit the wing to the fus with some cling film between the two parts to stop thenm acidently becoming one. Then I cut a 64th ply facing for the wing leading edge. This was glued in place and then packing pieces were added to the fus lower section to try and make it deeper, and make the wing look as though it was recessed further than it actually is. Then the wing underside leading edge was sheeted in soft balsa sheet and sanded to the shape you see. It isn't perfect but improves things somewhat. Just watch out if you are using the dowels as I said pages ago. The wing cannot really tilt to disengage the dowels and this fairing will make it wors. I think this is why Simon Delanaey left this fairing off his. I will be amazed if any of that made sense, so hopefully the pictures will help Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Day Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 Thanks Danny - especially for the pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles Galloway Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 Thanks for the compressor /spray gun advice Danny. Just bought the TG2 gun and a 2hp compressor. Sprayed the white roundel and really pleased. The only problem is that I used Tamiya acrylics for the white coat and it's costing a fortune for the little pots, which hardly cover the bottom of the spray gun. I wonder if using warbird paint for the red and blue would react with the dried white acrylic? Anyone any thoughts? Apologies to Danny, it's not my intention to hijack this thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 14, 2015 Author Share Posted February 14, 2015 Hi Charles, great well done I have some Warbird paints in the roundel colours much more cost effective I don't think the warbird paint will react, but I certainly would do a test first if I were you. No Hijack away There have been several questions regarding airbrushes and compressors over the last few months, not just on this forum, so don't be surprised if you see some of this in the next scale column in the magazine I do try to focus on what people ask though its not always easy to do that. The airbrush I linked too, that was under £20 with three needles and jets arrived and even includes a nice 3 metre braided hose. Can't go wrong at that price, though the action of the trigger isn't a patch on the Iwata, but then I wouldn't expect it too, it was a tenth the price! Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles Galloway Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 Thanks Danny, I've been eyeing up the Iwata RG3, but can't really justify that kind of outlay. It looks as though it would do the whole range of jobs. I have an Aztek airbrush which I bought about 10 years ago and has sat there unused until now. The set comes with interchangeable nozzles of various sizes up to 1.2mm. It was fine for doing the fuselage roundel, but wasn't up to the wing ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 14, 2015 Author Share Posted February 14, 2015 Hi Charles, just re-read your post! The TG2 is for spraying an entire model and fast, as it has a full size (automotive 1:1) spray head. I am hardly surprised it has eaten the paint.... For roundels I use a .3mm or better still a .5mm airbrush If the Aztek wont work, try that airbrush set for under £20, you will need a regulator and connection reducers to get the pressure and connector sizes down from 1/4 BSP to the smaller 1/8 BSP fitting probably on the airbrush. You would also need that for the Aztek. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 16, 2015 Author Share Posted February 16, 2015 Managed a little time over the weekend to make a start on the upper wing surfaces. I have modified my stitching to make them just a tiny bit more pronounced, not much, just a little What I am doing differently to the original technique is i am adding a drop of thin CA to the stitches to harden them just before they get covered in the tape. A fiddly job but seems to have worked nicely. Hopefully it hasn't overdone things. Cheers Danny Edited By Danny Fenton on 16/02/2015 16:47:06 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Day Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 I can definitely see the stitches under the tape Danny so it works well. A step too far for me I think though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 Hi Nigel, well at least you are now armed with the knowledege to do it one day I must be sad, this is the fun bit.... Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Day Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 Yes, thanks Danny. I may well try it when I get around to my Spit - or the next one that needs stitching. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 I have bit the bullet and added the upper rib stitching, and the Proskin/G10 strip that gives a sharp edge to the leading edge, where alloy meets Fabric. With hind sight I should have just used solartex half an inch forward and glassed over it, with a masking/electrical tape demarcation. It is going to be difficult to see the difference doing it my way especially at this scale, and would have been so much simpler Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 Very neat Danny, have you glassed over Solartex before ? because I've been humming n aaahing how to do the metal l/e myself. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 Hi John, no I haven't glassed over tex, plenty of people have, I am just a bit nervous about the tex relaxing it's grip on the balsa. Perhaps if you give the area you are going to overcoat a coat of Balsaloc to make sure? I have been struggling with this bit in my head for months, and am still not happy with the solution I have come up with But I will keep going and we will see how it looks. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 It would be a easy way if it works, I wondered myself about it lifting..so best do a test on some scrap. Thanks Danny John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 Hi Danny How does the stitching work on the longitudinal strip behind the LE junction? Regarding the junction, why not use the 1/64" ply technique used for the shrouds - probably be a bit late for that now but just a thought M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 Make sure you take pics John so we can all benefit Hi Martyn, I have used the shroud technique, except I have used G10/Proskin instead of ply, it's thinner Perhaps its not clear in the photos?? I think there was a sketch drawn by David? as to how this strip is done. Its quite difficult to put into words. But basically a strip of pinked tape is clamped against the spar top, along with the main surface fabric with this pinked strip laying forwards towards the leading edge out of the way. Then it is layed back over the clamp to seal the join. What you see under this pinked strip is not rivets but screw heads, which is why I have used glue dots to try and simulate this. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 I have kindly been given clearance to get some close-up pics of the Cosford Chippy on Thursday. It is a bit hemmed in so I am really not sure what I will get, but I will definitely be looking at the wing fairing! Must print a few incremented paper strips in preparation. Cheers Danny Edited By Danny Fenton on 18/02/2015 22:24:02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 If they don't match mine can you photo shop them first Have a good day Danny ....rivet John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Muckley Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 Look's very neat Danny and look's like it will hold nicely too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Walters Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 Yes - it looks good Danny - still undecided how I will go with this join. Keep it up I'll be back on it soon and that will be 'full-time'. Flying today I hope. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 Well the phot shoot went okay I still need to fine tune my technique with the camera as the lighting inside Cosford's Hanger 3 is not good and to be sheltered from what light there is by a Nimrod is not good Anyway though not as well lit as taking the pics outside, I think they capture all the parts I need. I took 313 and they take up 5.7Gb so I will have to shrink them down a bit to squeeze them onto a 4.7Gb DVD if anybody wants one. Here is a sample: The shadow underneath was my error needed to be further away as the lens shielded the flash The size of the pics are such that if you zoom in this is that same picture.... Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Day Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 All the detail you could ever want Danny. I'll be interested to see how you do the red and white tape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 Lol there's always one..... 1cm increments btw CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Day Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 Now why am I not surprised that you know that..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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