Danny Fenton Posted October 10, 2014 Author Share Posted October 10, 2014 Indeed a master plan there is. My excellent three view shows a tab on each elevator, so its not as excellent as first thought. All the pics show only one. I will do something once I have done more research. If authenticity isnt important follow the plan. Rudder top needs re visiting too btw.CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Mulhair Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 Hi Danny, Not done much for the last couple of days. My plan was to let you get ahead then I could follow with your blog up on screen so assisting when I go wrong. The problem is I still went wrong! Have a quick look at my build blog “Chipmunks for beginners” as I would really appreciate your advice and I don’t want to fill up this blog with all my errors. Many thanks Dennis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 10, 2014 Author Share Posted October 10, 2014 Don't worry Dennis, this is not an easy build and I for one am struggling too, you wait til you get to the wing!!! And please ask away. I have ALL the Chippy blogs bookmarked and was in the process of replying Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 10, 2014 Author Share Posted October 10, 2014 Okay I have decided the route I am taking is as good as any other I can come up with, so gluing has commenced. I have also added the small lower 1/8 x 1/8 square trailing edge. I have actually made it very slightly bigger than 1/8 in one dimension because the laser cutting has made the notches in the ribs too large. So the square section is in full contact with the ribs and glued with thin zap. (Thin zap will NOT gap fill so for the joint to be strong the joint must be tight) Those of you will realise that unless the ribs are a perfect length the square trailing edge will wave slightly, this is okay (as long as its only very minor) I will use a gap filling glue like Titebond to attach the full height trailing edge. Each rib should have a hole for the pushrods, or servo wire, I haven't done this yet and will struggle later because of this. I forgot.... Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 10, 2014 Author Share Posted October 10, 2014 Must get more spring clamps...... Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Bennett Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 cloths pegs work at a pinch. nice work sir. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 10, 2014 Author Share Posted October 10, 2014 Thanks Tony glad to see you are keeping a sharp eye on me. Not much done this evening, removed all the clamps and we have a very rigid and should be light trailing edge. It pays to make sure this is true, I picked up a metre steel rule a few years ago which is great for this sort of thing, but some alloy channel from B and Q will probably suffice at a push. I shamelessly stole Chris Botts excellent self jigging leading edge idea, sorry Chris but great ideas like that are worth there weight in balsa I have altered it slightly as mt young Padawan will attest to, I do like false leading edges So my leading edge is 1/8 firm/hard balsa. It will be sanded flush with the tops of the ribs and then the sheeting will overlap this, but you will see. The centre section is still a minefield of loose ends, I am not sure how that lot is going to play out yet so have left the ends floating in mid air for now. Imaginary three bar gate, and rivets jumping over.... 1 rivet, 2 rivets........ZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 11, 2014 Author Share Posted October 11, 2014 The centre section is really causing me to scratch my head. I am used to building three panels a centre and two outers then joining. this cannot be done that way Allignment is a nightmare... Pressing a laser into service is helping... a bit Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 Hi Danny it's coming on well ,could you not build a temp building base that is set up at the right angle and build the wings on that just a wild off the wall thought Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 11, 2014 Author Share Posted October 11, 2014 Hi Martian i did think of something like that, and I may have to, just exploring all the options. I could build the other panel to this same state, my head hurts with the options. If the centre section joiner is acurate the it should be just a case of holdind it flat. But do i trust the joiners as being accurate?I really appreciate your thoughts though CheersEdited By Danny Fenton on 11/10/2014 11:17:52 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 11, 2014 Author Share Posted October 11, 2014 Okay got back and have realised a fairly straight forward way to do the centre section. Add rib one temporarily from the other wing However it seems the very first glue joint I made on this wing was wrong and I should have seen it coming, oh well, hopefully you guys wont fall in the same hole. If you glue the doubler to the spars and rely on the shape of the doubler to set the dihedral it may not be right. In my case it has meant the dihedral is low by 8mm at the tip. Not a lot and probably not that noticeable. But its wrong. All I can do at this stage I think is make the other wing the same. I am not sure how you get around this because you have to glue something to get going. Hopefully when some of you get to the wing you will take this into account? oh well... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 11, 2014 Author Share Posted October 11, 2014 Just checked my 3 view and the dihedral angle for the underside of the wing is noted as 8 degrees. I would suggest you draw two lines on the plan and set the doubler to spar lower surface and use this to set the lower spar angle add the tip rib temporarily to set the upper spar. Then you can follow the same sequence I have shown.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 11, 2014 Author Share Posted October 11, 2014 Okay I think I have a work-around, if I shave 1/32 off the port underside of the joiner then the centre section will lift the starboard wing to 63mm, the required amount. I just have to make sure that rib 1 is eased to fit the doubler while the doubler is held flat against the board, should be 32nd off the top of the rib where it meets the upper spar, and the situation is recovered. My head hurts now Cheers Danny Edited By Danny Fenton on 11/10/2014 13:48:21 Edited By Danny Fenton on 11/10/2014 13:49:06 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Muckley Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 Hi Danny iv'e noticed that your'e hinges are tapered at the inserted end, did you sand them down to achieve this as my hinge set are with a blunt end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 11, 2014 Author Share Posted October 11, 2014 Now that little hiccup is sorted I moved on to the leading edge balsa B1 and the trailing edge ply B3. I alligned these with the temporary port wing Rib1. I have used titebond for these joints as it gives a bit of time to check, double check and triple check allignment..... Fingers crossed.... I will let the pics do the talking: I made a temporary wing tip, to make sure the height was what I wanted, excuse me mixing measurements, the plan says 2-3/4" PHEW! I will let this lot dry and then I can move on to sheeting the leading edge and capping strips, ooo and more shrouds Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 11, 2014 Author Share Posted October 11, 2014 Posted by Andy Muckley on 11/10/2014 16:42:10: Hi Danny iv'e noticed that your'e hinges are tapered at the inserted end, did you sand them down to achieve this as my hinge set are with a blunt end Hi Andy, this was covered in one of the other threads..... the two outer hinges, 1 per elevator need to be cut shorter by about 5mm and it also needs tapering slightly. The reason is it will poke through the elevator covering! My fault should have made those 2 shorter..... The rest are okay as they are Cheers Danny Edited By Danny Fenton on 11/10/2014 16:54:14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Muckley Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 Cheers Danny sorry i missed that other thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 11, 2014 Author Share Posted October 11, 2014 No Problem Andy, but it is worth bookmarking them all as some gem might appear on one thread and you will miss it, and I know you will kick yourself if you mis something. How is yours coming along, haven't seen a blog started yet? Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 11, 2014 Author Share Posted October 11, 2014 well with my wife being away I managed a whole evening in the workshop, that's a rarity for me I can tell you I will let the pics do the talking, I must say the accuracy of the parts has been very good, one rib was undersized as you will see but apart from that very impressed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 11, 2014 Author Share Posted October 11, 2014 Any questions just shout Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 Hi Danny More excellent work by yourself, thanks for highlighting the pitfalls and showing the workarounds. How glad I am to be working and unable to get in the workshop to fall into that minefield !! Sorry for being a bit slow on the uptake but what did you mean in the post at 1332 regarding drawing 2 lines ? Looking at the problems you have had is it best to build as much as possible of the outer section without joining to the centre section. Then set out the centre section and attach the outer assembly at the correct angle to get the correct dihedral ? Sorry but I don't have the plans in front of me to see right now. I see your notching of the false leading edge _ is this to give you a guide for sanding the leading edge correctly without damaging the ribs ? Cheers Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 11, 2014 Author Share Posted October 11, 2014 Hi Martin, yes its a challenge, but we have it licked now. Normally i would completely agree with you about building the outer panels and joining them later but this one the parts of the centre stop you building right out to rib 4! You will see what I mean when you get onto the wing. 1332 drawing two lines: Draw a horizontal datum line exactly the length of the lower spar, then draw another line at 8 degrees to this. Lay the centre ply joiner on the horizontal line, and add the 1/4 sq spar following the 8 degree line. If you dont want to draw the angle then measure up from the horizontal datum, where the wingtip would be, 2-3/4" And that's where your upper line would terminate. If its still not clear let me know and I will do a drawing. You are spot on with the notches in the false leading edge, they follow the contour of the rib and you just sand til the notch is flush, simples. Be careful though because if a rib is low then so will your false leading edge Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 11, 2014 Author Share Posted October 11, 2014 Famous last words........ I was looking through some Chippy photos and happened to notice that the flap/ailron shroud is stepped. I looked at the plan, no step. Deep sigh...... And the flap and aileron are not inline on the underside either. I think we are going to have to live with this as it will involve a major rework of the wings trailing edges, flaps and ailerons..... we picked the wrong plan Chris Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Walters Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 Danny - brilliant pics and very helpful techiniques too. There may be other ways but I haven't even looked at it yet. What you are doing is really good for us out here in the wilderness that is scale building for the wannabees! Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 12, 2014 Author Share Posted October 12, 2014 Thanks Terry, I was beginning to think I was all alone. I look forward to see how you and the others tackle the wing. You will no doubt see a simple way. But you know me, got to do it the hard way CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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