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Danny's "poor mans Spitty"


Danny Fenton
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Danny

Thanks for the clarification, I think I see what you mean now - the lines allow you to attach the lower spar to the joiner at the correct dihedral angle.

Then complete the outer panel basic structure (ie LE and TE) flat on the board (the centre joiner will be angled up in the air)

Once the outer panel is complete, release from the board to get the centre joiner flat, then complete the centre section.

Complete sheeting etc on each section flat on the board

Would you recommend fitting both left and right lower spars to the centre joiner at the same time or complete one side at a time as far as possible ?

Good spot regarding the wing training edge, I had a look for Brian Taylors big Chipmunk but cant find a picture showing the wing area:

http://www.modelairplanenews.com/blog/2011/07/09/brian-taylors-dhc-1-chipmunk-close-up-flightline-walk-around/

And this really nice Nationals 2011, 3rd placed model - looks to me like the TE is straight with just the aileron notched (not absolutely sure as the photo blurs when enlarged):

http://www.baesmac.co.uk/club_news/RC_Power/Nats_2011.htm

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Hi Martin you can write my blogs, i will just post the pics you are spot on with the process i used. Whether there is a better way i dont know but this way has resulted in a lovely straight wing and the centre section is all aligned too. You may be right just fitting the lower spar to the doubler might be easier.
Cheers
Danny
Ps i have lots of pics of both Brian's and Dave's Chippys I will take a look later but knowing those guys they wouldnt miss something so fundamental. This plan is fairly old. Remember a Corsair with none retracting U/C won the Nats around this time
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Danny

Sorry didn't mean to hijack your thread, just wanted to get things clear in my tiny brain.

Regarding the open structure for the rudder tip - looks like the elevators are the same from one of the previously uploaded photos ? Or has this been mentioned elsewhere ?

On another subject what are your plans regarding aileron / flap servos ? I was thinking of individual aileron servo's and just one for flaps - what do you think ?

Keep up the great work.

cheers

Martin

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Martin you are not hijacking the thread, the chat and banter is something I really enjoy about this forum. So please don't apologies

I have a plan for the rudder top, that doesn't involve removing the wood. The rudder could become quite fragile and susceptible to hangar rash without the section at the top. You lot are so impatient!

My idea was to sand shallow hollows in the balsa and perhaps add some stringers to highlight the rib positions.

I will revisit this later, as I will the elevator trim tabs. But please feel free to experiment with your own ideas. As we have always said there is no right or wrong way to do things.

I am not sure about the elevator tips, we need a close up piccy. I can see rib tapes but the fabric just doesn't look angled like a ribbed structure.

As far as servos, the forum is split here. I am going for bell cranks and two servos, one for flaps and one for ailerons. Most are going for separate aileron servos. Again no right or wrong way, but with a central servo no servo access is required.

Keep the questions coming, its no trouble.

Decembers Column is written so I can get back to the Chippy

Shame I am missing my chums at Ashbourne, weather looks great too. Do a low pass for me guys!

Cheers

Danny

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Oh we are still watching believe me but I'm way off the wings so it's all bookmarked for later. DIY for me this weekend so it could be a lot later.

The step in the shroud doesn't look that big and yes building deeper flaps would be a step too far, at least for me. Couldn't you just make the shroud slightly smaller over the flap section, at least over the top, to simulate a deeper flap. I admit I haven't had any time to look at this properly.

Great build on the wings so far.

Nev.

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Hi Nev, I think the size of the flap will have a bearing on this, if the gap between the shroud and flap is poor it will just look wrong, whereas if you leave the step off nobody will know, except the odd Chippy anorak. Don't worry nobody is following the threads

Right just for you guys I am building the second wing in the same manner as you would normally, lets see what happens....

0233 (large).jpg

By the way, I have a reversed copy being printed by a friend, but I don't think he realised how quickly I would need it crook It is after all day 12 and I am on wing 2 smile p

Anyway I taped the plan to the lounge window and spent half an hour transferring the lines to the other side to make a mirror copy. I really think this is a poor show on behalf of plan printers, include an extra sheet for an extra quid please......

The first thing I realised was I needed to add the feet to the ribs, so had to lift the plan and protective film etc from the board to turn it over... GRRRRR!

Cheers

Danny

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Here you can see just how delicate the structure is without the leading and trailing edge pieces nore the centre section doublers. If you know it all fits then you are okay. But if you are not sure this is a big gample. They fitted on the other side so I am confident.... sort of crook

0234 (large).jpg

0235 (large).jpg

0236 (large).jpg

0237 (large).jpg

0238 (large).jpg

0239 (large).jpg

0240 (large).jpg

Fitted the trailing edge 1/8 sq section, using an engineers square to ensure they were perpendicular to the plan. This meant a few very small gaps at the backs of the ribs. This will not be a problem as the rib cappings will bridge the tiny gap. And it is only on a few ribs. This willl ensure that the 1/8 full height trailing edge, has a good straight surface to bond to.

Once the trailing edge was done then we could do the leading edge as on the other wing.

*Note* make sure you do the trailing edge first, as those ribs without jigging tabs (the odd numbered ribs in my case) will not be alligned until the trailing edge goes on. If you want to be really safe fit jigging tabs to ALL ribs

Is anybody else building? Seems very quiet... I hope the wing hasn't stunned you all into silence LOL its not that bad honest

Cheers

Danny

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Hi Danny - I'm still here and will get a bit more done this week but on Friday I'm back to the UK for a whole week so won't be able to do anything more until I return!

I shall be reading the blogs tho' so keep up the good work all of you Chipites!thumbs up

When I get back it'll be a straight run here until next March. Really looking forward to that stability.

Monday mornings= Housework!

Terry

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Sorry Danny, been away - and I'm Waaay behind too.

Feet under the ribs? I've not looked closely at the wing plan yet but I'm struggling with what the feet, tabs and jigs might all be for.

Please don't go to any trouble, I'm sure a few words of clarification will make it easier - even if not until I actually start on the wings.

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Hi Nigel, normal modern model design has built in jigging tabs, or feet on the bottom of the ribs. This means you can build the wing flat on the board and know it will have the recquired washout and remain true through the build. At least while it is pinned the right way up anyway!

When you sheet the underside, you have to be careful not to warp all the hard work

With this plan the ribs are drawn with a datum line beneath the trailing edge. This line can represent the bench top, and if you place the edge of a engineers square on the line, and glue a scrap of balsa from the rib down to the reference you have made a foot or tab for the rib to rest on.

I have taken 240 pics so far so hopefully you can pick your way through the pitfalls if not give me a shout

I appreciate I am going a little fast, but I have to make hay while the sun shines My wife is working away at the moment and that means I can get in the workshop once I have put my daughter to bed.

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Many thanks Danny, that explanation works for me. smiley

Oh, and the speed is no problem. Everything is beautifully documented. I just wanted to get the explanation with the relevant pics, rather than 2 months down the line when all's done and dusted with your build.

Edited By Nigel Day on 13/10/2014 10:02:46

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Hi Danny,

Seeing your comments regarding the flap/aileron lines, I agree it could end up causing major headaches, if total fidelity is the goal ( it must be a recognised condition!). A solution that shows some break in the shroud line will fool the eye sufficiently. Looking at various pics, it seems the aileron is almost parallel chord, moving the inner leading edge of the aileron out, would provide the shroud step. This might be something for the next scale mass build, chippy at 1/4 scale wink 2

Alex

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Posted by Charles Galloway on 13/10/2014 11:28:50:

Have you any tips for cutting the tapers on the ends of B3 so as to get a nice flat surface?

Maybe the laser cut parts come ready tapered.

I'm still working on the tailplane/elevators but looking ahead.

 

Hi Charles, I have a belt sander and that made fairly light work of the taper on both B1 and B3. A razor plane would be fine to get close to the taper and finish with sanding, certainly on the balsa B1. B3 is ply and as such a bandsaw might be another option to get it close, then again sand to final shape.

Not a two minute task, and watch the dust

Cheers

Danny

Oh meant to say, when the taper gets very thin at the tip, place a stiff piece of wood behind the section so that it doesn't flex away from the sanding block and cause you to create a curved shape.

Edited By Danny Fenton on 13/10/2014 11:42:16

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I wouldn't worry about that Andy.

My take is that the idea is to have fun doing the build. If you've time (and the inclination) for a blog, so much the better.

The blogs of the older (wink) and experienced builders are a boon to newbies like me. The other blogs are interesting, and often give additional insights, but I'd have said that they're as much about personal pleasure and entertainment as they are about providing information. Mine is slightly useful to me (as a record), probably entertaining to others and usually instructive on basic errors and naughty shortcuts. smiley

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