Terry Walters Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 You really are stuck in that cave then Steve? Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Day Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 Thanks Steve. I probably won't get that far until after Xmas but it'll save a lot of work, filler, grief and more! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatscoleymo Posted December 28, 2014 Author Share Posted December 28, 2014 Bonjour mes amis, et meilleurs voeux. I've not got very much done over the last few weeks, but I've sorted out a steerable tailwheel, basically following Danny's example with a couple of tweeks. I wanted the load from the wheel to be carried firmly by the hardwood mounting block with little chance of it working loose on account of my usual 'secure' arrivals. So I epoxied in an M3 blind nut: I then silver soldered the bent piano wire tailwheel leg into an M3 solder coupling. Then filed a flat on the end of the thread to enable a firm fix for the collet/ brass arm. I replaced the grub screw in the collect for a cut down M3 socket head cap screw to get a tighter fix. The leg is screwed up into the blind nut making sure it's nice and free to rotate, and the collet then tightened onto the thread from the rear access hole. It needs the cosmetic detail adding, but looks like this. The threads transfer all the load into the mounting block and the M3 blind nut ain't coming off in a hurry. Steve Edited By Fatscoleymo on 28/12/2014 14:45:21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 Looks great Steve not sure i understand what the blind nut is doing?CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatscoleymo Posted December 28, 2014 Author Share Posted December 28, 2014 Danny - in the past with tailwheels I've just allowed the piano wire leg to rotate in a brass tube, much as i think you have done, with the brass tube epoxied into the mounting block. The piano wire has had a little vertical movement within the tube, and it has eventually worked the brass tube loose, or bent the tube, binding and restricting rotation. This way there is no vertical movement as the M3 coupler is threaded into the blind nut - I'm just hoping it's just another little potential problem overcome. Time will tell! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatscoleymo Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 Hi guys, I've been carefully crafting (fiddling) the wing fairings the last couple of days, oh joy, is that fun! Anyway while bodging away I realised that the 3 view drawing 3063 shows (both top and underside views) the rear fairings concave, but all photos I have seen clearly show a convex curve. How can a detailed drawing get it so wrong? Unless of course I'm having another senior moment. Antbody else noticed it? Fats Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Hi Steve, you have lost me my friend the drawing (3063) looks okay to me? Unless we are both having senior moments Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatscoleymo Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 Danny - 3063 shows the curve into the fus, concave. All photos, and the way I've built it, show the curve away from the fus, convex. Dennis' plan shows convex. ????????? Now more puzzled than ever, Fats Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 And of course I used 3063 for mine..... you are quite right it depends on how you interpret the lines. I will have a dig around. Could quite easily be that i have mine totally wrong Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Hi Steve, I think they are both wrong and the line is actually straighter. Looking from slightly behind it will look convex, slightly infron concave, or vice versa lol. This is the best three view I have so far seen and seems to match up with the pics I have.... Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Donny chippie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Doesn't help John because you are viewing from slightly behind the wing. Its well confusing isn't it? I think the line should be nearly straight. I certainly wouldn't trust Dennis on this. However most of the other 3 views are also wrong. I think Ole Rossel's is correct (the one I showed above). Now do I correct mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatscoleymo Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 But 3063 is drawn from directly above and underneath and from that perspective the fairings should be drawn convex methinks. Most fairings seem to be concave (my Fournier rf4 for instance), it seems the natural way for the wing to blend into the fus. I just wonder if the draughtsperson got it wrong. Thats a great photo Danny. Thanks John, shows it convex as it is. Anyway enough nitpicking, plenty to do! Fats Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Hi Steve I completely agree and have done my fairings according to 3063. However I think (now you have pointed it out) it is incorrect..... sigh.... Who would build scale eh Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatscoleymo Posted January 23, 2015 Author Share Posted January 23, 2015 Hi Guys, Just got back from a week in Blighty and have now got a couple of months (before we're off to Oz for the big lads wedding) to push on with the build. Got the fairings done (just a little bit of tidying up to do). So onwards we go! Looking forward to fitting servos in fus, getting the two halves together and getting everything covered and glassed. Then detailing can begin. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Nice job Steve very neat how are you all ensuring the wing is aligned to the t/plane ? You using the base of the crutch to work from or have you glued t/plane up ? John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatscoleymo Posted January 23, 2015 Author Share Posted January 23, 2015 Not got that far yet John! I thought I'd probably do it the way you showed, seems like a good idea. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 looks great Steve, very impressive Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Walters Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Welcome back Steve! Looking good. I've been 'distracted' but now back on it. ! Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Muckley Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Hi Steve your fairings look great by the way, good job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Day Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 Looking really good Steve, especially the fairings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graeme Poke Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 Terrific fairings Steve. They look the business. How long are you in Oz? You will have to finish it before you go, or not. Cheers Graeme Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatscoleymo Posted January 25, 2015 Author Share Posted January 25, 2015 Cheers for the comments on the fairings guys, I'm pretty pleased with them. It definately won't be finished by the time I go to Oz Graham! I'm away 3 weeks, then our cottage renting season starts, so this will be a build that will last well into the summer at least. Onwards! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatscoleymo Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 Well, like a few others on this build, my Mojo's been lost for a while. Seem's like nothing is 'do-able' without trying to figure out another 7 steps in the sequence after! I was mulling over the akward rudder horn / tailwheel horn fitting method during the glueing of the top and bottom shells together. Anyway a combination of Danny's closed loop and John's (Stones 1) piano wire in a snake inner have done it for me. The slightly slack Kevlar threads on the closed loop to the tailwheel will allow a little flexing to keep strain off the servo. The flexible wire (20g I think) with a z bend on the end will allow me to fix it to the rudder horn and then slide it in through the snake inner as I bring the shells together for glueing. At the servo end I've copied the system that seems to be used on a lot of ATRF's. It's just the brass inner from an electrical wire joiner. Allows adjustment in assembly. Glad to have got this headache sorted. Onward! Fats Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Another bit out the way Steve John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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