Preferred hinging types

[Brian Wilson 2]

I hate cutting slots and CA hinges although the result is reasonably satisfactory but have often wondered what other builders preferred hinging types are and why

[cymaz]

Never had an issue with ca slots on an artf.

Dubro pin hinges for larger models. These are easy to fit using the drill jig and come in a couple of sizes.

[David Davis]

I have a Carl Goldberg "De Luxe Hinge Slotting Kit." I've had it for years and it certainly makes the job of hinging control surfaces much easier.

With larger fully built up models I prefer the top-hinge method, using the covering material as a pivot. This has never failed.

[Prop Nut]

I used to think the furry Mylar hinges were a little 'iffy' and cutting slots a pain, but experience has shown them to be very reliable so I use them in most builds now. Like Cymaz I also use flat, pinned hinges and also Robart barbed hinges, where you just need to drill a hole.

[Andy Green]

My preference where possible are the Robart pin hinges, because of the easy of fitting.

Have you seen my basic hinging article?

Andy

[Allan Bennett]

Although I've used Robart barbed type, flat pinned ones, and Solartex for top-hinging, my favoured method is simple mylar strip or, more lately, the furry ones cyanoed in. The only hinges I've had fail on me are where they don't use any hinge in foamy models, and when things like ailerons and elevator have eventually fallen off my Multiplex Twinstar I've repaired them with furry mylar hinges.

[Peter Miller]

Furry Mylar are great for most purposes but I also use Robart Hinge points or Great Planes Pivot point hinges, Basically the same thing.

One thing about the Robart ones. You can buy sockets that are sunk into the fixed surface and the hinge point goes into these and is held with a grub screw. Great if you want to be able to remove the control surfaces for any reason.

[Cuban8]

Pinned leaf hinges every time for me now - epoxied in place and then cleaned up with meths.Robarts are pretty good as well. Hairy hinges are OK I suppose, but the ones supplied in most AFTFs never seem to take up the glue correctly and can give a dry joint. I'd always replace them with 'Great Planes' hinge strip which sucks the thin cyano into itself really well.

[Andy Green]

Just to echo Peters point about the Robart sockets - great if you want to move the actual hinge point, for flaps as an example.

Andy

[Martyn K]

I have been using full length Kevlar cloth for a little while now. Very strong, very flexible and I sandwich it rather than cut slots. I get sealed surfaces which are allegedly more efficient and nice close and slop free hinges.

Martyn

[Levanter]

Martyn. Where do you get your Kevlar cloth? I would like some for a variety of applications including trying it out or hinging which I have seen on your blogs.

[Brian Wilson 2]

Thank you for the comments guys, almost as many preferences as there are options which should tell me something

Brian

[Stevo]

+1 for the golberg hinge slotter!

Hinges are a breeze, you can do an entire aircraft in under 10 mins - dead accurately!!!

[Malcolm Fisher]

I often use the old fashioned "figure of eight" sewn hinges using some strong synthetic thread. Doesn't need any slotting or gluing, is easily replaced on the very rare occasions when a hinge fails. Using the covering as a hinge is another favoured method.

Malcolm

[Malcolm Fisher]

Sorry , double posting.

Malcolm

Edited By Malcolm Fisher on 04/11/2014 19:18:42