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trebor
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Hi trebor, I'd go for Flair. because they are very good indeed. If you are looking for a trainer, don't be too ambitious and attempt a WW1 job like a SE5 or a Fokker. Their Cub is a good build, and makes a fine first plane/trainer. You can dress it up in military schemes, or the popular cub yellow.

Have you got a good flat building board, and some basic tools?

Let us know how it all goes.

ernie

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Funny old world ask a dozen different modellers and get a dozen different answers

certainly if you want something to learn on I would avoid both the Se5 and the DV111 not beginners models at all

Personally I would be recommending a number of the Ben Buckle kits certainlySuper 60 andJunior 60 also there are a few others that are suitable

Interestingly enoughy experience is the opposite to Percys I have built a Junior 60 from a B B kit best lit I have ever seen in terms of wood quality, wood suitability and quality of cut. I also built a super 60 replacement wing fr their aileron upgrade kit again perfect. However whilst I have always admired the Flair range over the last few decades the only kit I have had from them was disgraceful poor quality unsuitable wood and poorly cut. I

do know there had been a few changes in the kit side of that company but will not rush to buy a kit from them without close inspection first having been disappointed

To be fair the Buckle kits were last year but the Flair was at least 10 years ago and company's do wax and wane

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If you're comparing the Flair and Ben Buckle Junior 60s I would go for the Flair one every time. Theirs is based upon the 1955(?) version of the model and features a wider fuselage and stronger wing to accommodate the very bulky radios which were used at the time. The Ben Buckle version is based upon the original 1946 free-flight design.

If you choose a Junior 60 or any similar short-nosed model, please reserve your lightest wood for the tail surfaces.

I learned to fly on a Junior 60 and would recommend it to any elderly beginner. The Radio Queen is another excellent vintage trainer but please only fly models like this in calm weather, at least to begin with.

Edited By David Davis on 11/11/2014 17:17:59

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Learning has two aspects - learning to fly and learning to build - neither are difficult as long as you don't bite off more than you can chew at first.

You seem to have this well under control as regards flying - but you need to apply the same judgement to building. Unless you have highly developed woodworking and modelling skills from another hobby you will struggle with a complex build - there's a lot to learn smile Definitely shelve ideas like WWI scale types - they are for later. You might think "If I take it easy I will manage it" - well you probably won't. And if you do get to the finish the model you produce may not be accurately enough built to fly really well and at the early stages of learning to fly (first model after a trainer) you do not need a model which is a challenge to fly!

I think you have two good options here -

1. go for something a bit less traditional, but easy to build that will give you a good result in a relatively short time - but still give you the real feeling that "you built it". For this option I would suggest something like a kit version of the WOT4 from Chris Foss - note, the kit from CF not the ARTF from Ripmax. With this you have to build the fuselage from sheet, the wings are veneered foam, but you have to join them. You then have to fit all the radio gear and engine and finally cover it. There is a lot more to it than assembling an ARTF trainer (which you will have done), but its a very manageable step forward.The WOT4 is an excellent second model flying wise - and many of us have taken the first step beyond a trainer with this model. Its very robust, well mannered to fly (but can do a wide range of aerobatics) and handles rougher weather conditions very well.

2. You could go for something more traditional - like the Super 60. But here you are definitely into a build that is at least one (possibly two) levels higher again. It's model made up entirely of "framework" - lots of intricate/accurate wood cutting and assembly required. You will also face the challenges of building and covering an open wing structure without twisting it. It will take a lot longer to build and, at least in your earlier flying career, will not be so tolerant of rough weather. Its a great model - if you like the "sixties look"! - but there is a lot more too it.

Which would I go for in your position? Probably the WOT4. I think it will give you a good taste of building with a very high probability of complete success and a smashing model to fly as a trainer follow-on. It will help you to get into building and to take your flying to new levels.

BEB

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Yes Percy they are not cheap crying but they are tough enough for a muddy strip - my old Katana has 180+ flights and is fine. Like everyone I have days where my landing head is elsewhere and she's come through fine. I use nylon bolts to attach the u/c and strengthened the u/c fairings as well....

Lovely flyer for sports or 3D aerobatics and docile on finals

Jon

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Posted by trebor on 11/11/2014 20:34:01:

Is this the one your talking about Biggles ?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chris-Foss-Uno-Wot-4ch-Trainer-deluxe-kit-kit-to-build-/251690004695

No, that's a Uno-Wot - this is a WOT4

You are quite right Percy - the WOT4 with its veneered wing does not offer "built up" wing construction experience - but that is my entire point! By removing that aspect and saying effectively "lets leave that until next time" it offers the new builder a kit with a very high probability that he will:

a) complete it

b) complete it in a reasonable time

c) have a good chance of being rewarded with a model that actually flies well.

d) master at least some key building skills, on which he can then expand with his next build.

BEB

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Martin

The conversion is just a question of glueing some pre cut balsa and ply parts into the ARTF air frame around the motor mount area and hatch then installing a fuel tank and the throttle servo so there is no real building. You can make the parts yourself if you cannot get the actual Sebart conversion kit....I can help you with that if necessary?

Jon

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