Martin McIntosh Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 That looks fine but someone wanted to try them on wing to fus. Definitely a no-no. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Jones Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 I've got two models with wing to fus connections, no issues and as long as it's done properly there's no reason to worry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 As promised here are the details of the way I do it. A little soldering to the Vero board is required but is very easy. This stuff is cut to size by scoring down a row of holes then snapping off when clamped in a vice. From CPC.com : 10 way servo connector. Part No. CN14561. 12 way. CN14562. 10 way 90deg. CN05585. 12 way 90deg. no longer available but use 2x 6 way CN05583. 10 way straight. CN05558. 12 way straight. CN18440. Vero (strip board 0.1" pitch) PC01230 or similar. A private account is easily set up and postage is free over £10. Lots of other modelling goodies too like scalpel blades and cyano. Pics to follow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 I've just come across this website that not only seems to sell Ashloks and the crimp tool, but also some interesting MPX style 8 pin connectors. UKJetshop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Jarvis Posted February 2, 2015 Author Share Posted February 2, 2015 Chris Thanks for that. I did use the green MPX on a plane but with out the flanges they had to be glued in and were difficult to fit and line up. These with the flanges look ideal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 Alan do you think any of the flanged ones are actually for mounting in both wing and fus, so that they automatically mate? Or, are they intended for one connector to be mounted, but the other to be plugged into it by hand? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Jarvis Posted February 2, 2015 Author Share Posted February 2, 2015 Chris, it does seem than only one plug/socket has a flange but when I look at the Multiplex Connector Set there appears to be two flanges black and blue although it describes one as covering screens but they have the rectangular cut out.. I have ordered some to try out. I will let you know when they arrive. Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 You all seem to be disregarding safety here trying to use connectors which cannot be seen to be mating correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 I'd suggest that having fixed connectors could be more safe Martin. Plugging in lots of separate servo leads onto extension leads can have it's own issues. Plugs can be put in backwards, and after many plug ins and outs, they can be quite a loose fit and have been know to fall out. If a built in connector system is constructed correctly, it would mate, always the correct way round, always fully, and the fixings holding the two model components together, would also ensure that the plugs stay together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 Sorry Chris, but I have to strongly disagree. Loose connections in time will apply to whatever you use, at least if they are individual this would be more evident (OK, does not apply to my type of multi plug). If one is forced in backwards then in most instances nothing will happen (no smoke) and will be detected on the pre-flight check. Wing to fus fixings vary greatly and rubber bands are still in use. Even a slight knock on landing would dislodge a rigidly fixed plug. Would you fit these to a £10,000 turbine? Probably not. Connections would be one of the first things that an insurance investigator would look at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 So are you actually suggesting I'd use a fixed connector with a banded on wing then Martin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 You'll be pleased to know, too, Martin that I've never used fixed connectors myself, but it is a very well used technique in glider circles. For example here's a picture from a German ARTF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 I have to go with Chris on this, Martin. Mounting an MPX plug on the wing root and socket in the fus is a well-established practice in gliding circles. The normal two wing joiners, together with whatever tensioning system is employed, makes the connection pretty well bomb-proof - far more certain than dangling connections within the fus. The pre-flight check should show up any anomalies - if it has been joined incorrectly it will be evident. I don't think folk with banded-on wings would contemplate such a system, TBH. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 I think using connectors firmly attached, and perfectly alligned to both parts is fine, but they must be checked to make sure they are mating securely. I know how the wings feel when pushed home and if they "feel" even slightly odd then you should investigate. Mine have always mated just fine. The connectors are very close to the clamping affect of the wing bolts. I think you have to be sensible about the type of model you use them on. I wouldn't use them between wing and fus unless it was a cramped glider fus. Cabled Ashloks work fine with a removable wing. But with plug in wings I think rigid connectors are fine with care. Definitely not with banded on wings!CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 Yes, I have seen these on glider wings which I believe they were intended for and a secure half wing to fus should be fine. The original question could have been for a one piece wing. Apart from the bolts and tongue there is generally nothing to stop the wing from moving a little side to side especially if a tip is snagged when, say, landing. I am not suggesting that you, Chris, would rubber band your wings on when using these but this forum is read by many newbies who may well have trainers with them and I would hate to think that they take it as gospel that rigid connectors are a good way to save a little time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J BENNETT Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 Suggest you look at EMCOTEC, they make a range of connectors specifically for your application. You can find them at www.shop.rc-electronic.com or you can google Emcotec and select the RC section. You will need to select English Language. Not sure if they have a UK distributor but you can buy direct if not. Regards jwb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaunie Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 I used a 9 pin D-type connector for the wing on a sixty sized plane many years ago. Not only did I use it for the aileron/flap servos it was also the front wing dowel, with two screws at the back completing the wing retention (high mounted wing)! I few this plane a lot, to the point that the engine had a new set of main bearings and a piston/liner set at one point. The D-type never ever gave any trouble. you need to take care they are mated accurately and fully. I would always advise doubling up supply and earth connections but not to just solder them together at the back of the connector, splice the wire a few inches away with one wire to each pin or place a short flexible loop between the pins. It is essential that the pins are free to float and self-centre. I'll upload some photos when I get a chance. Shaunie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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