i12fly Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Trebor I like your sliding tray I wish I'd done the same. I put a fixed tray in the bottom of the fus and use a strap around the tray and battery (I don't trust just Velcro strips -for me its either too strong to separate or it comes adrift). So the battery is as far back as I can sensibly access it from the hatch. It was nose heavy but still flew well like this. However I've now added 60g at the tail to balance perfectly, it flies even better and the additional weight isn't noticeable. I was a bit shocked by how much weight was needed. I'll be interested in whether you need to add weight in the tail to balance -I suspect you will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 I weighed the ply wood tray and strengthener at 36g, then bought some c section plastic edging from B&Q to make edges for the sliding tray but this turned out to weigh more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim C Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Trebor, these are the FC wheels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim C Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 I have replaced them with these, a tad heavy at 69g each!! (FC wheels are only 18g each), but look great, I will have to recheck the CG as all the weight is in front of the CG point I have these 40gm 4.5 inch wheels as an alternative which save a bit of weight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 Thanks they look fine, better than mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i12fly Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Correction to earlier post -the tail weight added was 35g added, not 60! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 I did a rough CG check with fuselage taped together, wings and bits on. With the battery all the way back it measured out 60mm from leading edge of wing instead of 80mm. To sort it weights need fitting or put the battery in next compartment under tail end servos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 My FunCub is several years old but I don't remember having any difficulties getting the CoG somewhere near. My battery (either a 2200 or 2600 3S) sits not far off the specified CoG just a touch back IIRC - it's a while since I flew it. Everything is as supplied with a motor from 4 Max, not sure which one but it works as it should. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Colman Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 The Fun cub is the only model that I've sold on and regretted. It was modded a little with a ply battery tray and a few other minor enhancements. From memory I had the CG at the 72mm mark with a 2200mah lipo all the way back as far as it would go. Flew beautifully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted February 26, 2015 Author Share Posted February 26, 2015 Steve that`s a nice looking plane. Cheers Tim got the wheels and I was able to do a bit on my suspension, not sure about the tension springs. Will test them soon with a bit of weight also gave the wheels a bit of a tow-in so they don't keep spreading out. I've got an assorted box of springs from Maplins for £3.50 to experiment with Edited By trebor on 26/02/2015 21:20:23 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim C Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 Trebor, glad the wheels worked out OK. I did a similar mod with the UC, I just used a couple of springs from one of those Wall plate hangers, the sort SWMBO uses to show off fancy crockery, works fine on stopping the UC spreading, HOWEVER is does not stop the UC bending back so I have added a further piece of wire to stop this, this is screwed into a piece of dowel let into the foam and cyanoed in place to provide a solid mounting point. Edited By Tim @ ModelMarkings.com on 27/02/2015 08:41:01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caveman Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 The sprung undercarriages look really good, but I managed to rip the undercarriage mount out of mine! (I think I mentioned that it's had a hard life!) The resultant damage made fixing of the plastic mount impossible. So I cut a section of foam from the underside of the fuselage and inserted a piece of beech, glued in with Gorilla glue. Initially I grooved the beech to accommodate the original Multiplex wire undercarriage legs and fixed them with saddle clamps. However, I got a bit fed up with the over-springy nature of the wire undercarriage, so replaced it with a pair of legs from Giant Shark, screwed onto the beech. The axles are 3mm stainless steel cap head screws with a plain shank on which the wheels revolve. Ground handling and landing is now vastly improved. The legs have a little give but with none of the bounce of the original, and have never had to be bent back to shape, unlike the wire ones. They also look much better! Admittedly not something I would have done if I hadn't damaged the plane, but might be worth keeping in mind should you suffer a similar mishap, and it does illusrate how resilient and repairable these foam planes are. GDB Edited By Caveman on 27/02/2015 10:35:07 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted February 27, 2015 Author Share Posted February 27, 2015 Cheers for the advise, I keep meaning to ask about the Rudder and Elevator snakes. The wire has 2 plastic liners to slide in, is the wire supposed to slide up and down inside the plastic or is the thin piece of plastic liner supposed to slide inside the larger outer liner ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josip Vrandecic -Mes Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 Hello Trebor , this is mine primitive (functional) version of Fun suspension : Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted February 27, 2015 Author Share Posted February 27, 2015 Can I say your (springs have sprung) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josip Vrandecic -Mes Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 Of course you can .... Sir...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caveman Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 Trebor, ref. your query regarding the snakes, all I did was slide the wire through the inner plastic tube. I don't think it matters which piece slides in which just so long as there's no binding and the control surfaces move easily. GDB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted February 27, 2015 Author Share Posted February 27, 2015 I did a dry run with everything taped together and this is where my battery will be. I had to cut through rear compartment, got some lighter plywood as the other stuff was for jigsaws and weighed more. At least I've got room for adjustment either way now and it can take a bigger battery too. Only problem was making a sled to get the battery in and out plus locking it down was tricky. Nearly ready for glueing it together which I`m not looking forward to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 I'm having a few problems with the towing servo rod guide. I bent one up the same as instructions and it jams up so I've been bending my own up. The most I get is 2 or 3 up and down movements then it jams. The slot is quite wide at one way and because the rod is so short there is a lot of movement sideways which allows it to jam. Plus once the servo is mounted in the wing it will be a sod to get at. If I had a small tube inside the guide it would straighten out the rod movement but it will strain the servo. Anyone else got over this problem ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon barr Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 I had the same problem with the tow release in my Mentor (its the same set-up). As you have mentioned, I ended up gluing a smaller tube in the slot to guide the wire. Works fine with no binding, and you only need around 1/4 inch movement anyway.... Also, make sure you use a decent servo... I used a 3kg torque metal geared servo for reliability. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 Cheers I've got a metal geared one for this. Just left it alone for 5 mins for a cuppa and I've seen why now. The guide when comes out of the top of the wing has a horizontal slot for the towline, on the opposite side it has a vertical slot and a small bit of plastic going across horizontally the same hight as the towline slot. That's where mine is catching, I'll file down a servo arm and glue it in to act as a guide. I will take a picture later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted March 4, 2015 Author Share Posted March 4, 2015 This was the culprit. That horizontal plastic at the back catches the wire rod, so I cut off a piece of servo arm and glued it in to act as a guide. When the other half was out I borrowed her utensils for gluing the tail on Just trying to tidy up the wing wires up. Only because I've put the Rx in the hole under the wing its getting messy in there, I got rid of one Y lead for the ailerons but I'm not sure what to do with this flap reversing Y lead. I can see these wires going down onto my battery and jamming things up when it comes to changing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim C Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 Very Tidy compared to my bunch of spaghetti! I use a couple of cable ties to fold up the surplus to tidy it a bit, but other than that just stuff it down the hole! A useful tip is to paint the connectors with different colours so you can match it up at the field! avoids plugging in the flaps to the ailerons and having to dismember the whole thing to sort it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted March 4, 2015 Author Share Posted March 4, 2015 Cheers Tim, it's just bugging me. What I really need is a 12 pin connector. Are you running the servo for the tow line because where I've got my Rx it's pretty close to the servo arm and the wires could tangle up in there. I could do with a bottom connecting Rx but this one came with the Tx I have so I really need to use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim C Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 No Not running Towline servo and I have my RX under the canopy, still a mass of wires to thread the battery through! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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