trebor Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 Well I spent some savings on a Galaxy Mystic as a first venture into low wing flying, being a bit premature as I'm still training. Hopefully by the time I've completed this I maybe close to moving onwards and upwards. I did some research and to my reckoning the Mystic should be a steadier flier to the Magician as its a larger wingspan and it says on the instructions it's suitable as a first low wing model. It will be a while before I start so it will give me time to collect other parts needed. I've googled and looked for completed weights and fuel motors used but there's not much about the Mystic, plenty on the Magician. If I can afford it I'd love a 4 stroke, recommended sizes range from 70 - 120. Any advise appreciated... Forgot to say the last complete build I did was rubber powered and over 35 years ago. Edited By trebor on 24/03/2015 17:28:32 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 hello trebor-the mystic is a wonderful/vice free model .....it go's together well..... I fitted mine with a S/T90 2st and it flew really well.....on its maiden flight it went dead stick and floated on forever...you've made a good choice. ken Anderson...ne...1 mystic dept. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bert baker Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 Had a couple they are nice, especially if fitted with large wheels, touch and goes are funny when watching the wheels springing back and forward. above 120 four stroke defo not lower, no doubt someone would have flown on a lower size, go large and enjoy. As it is to be a new build I would recommend sheeting the tail feathers for extra strength, it is advised when using larger engines, you may find yourself fitting a petrol later on so it will save hassle and do it first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted March 24, 2015 Author Share Posted March 24, 2015 Thanks chaps, I like the rear ended canopy look it's got. As I'm a novice do you think a 120 is a bit powerful though ? Any tips on putting it together, best glue to use on the wings, snakes or push pull wires, wing mounted servos ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted March 25, 2015 Author Share Posted March 25, 2015 Do you think I could follow the Wizard instructions to give me an idea, I know its smaller but similar in construction. **LINK** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wood Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Galaxy (shame they're gone) used to recommend a 75 2 st., but no harm in going larger as there's always a throttle control. Built a couple of Magicians & they fly superbly & look great in the air - the rear set canopy configuration gives it a unique look. The Wizard has a few differences but some of the techniques, such as foam wing construction will be similar. Good luck with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 The Mystic is still available as a kit - MHS bought the rights. **LINK** Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Berriman Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 A model shop in Norwich also have the 3 types Wizard, Magician & Mystic Edited By RC Plane Flyer on 25/03/2015 17:00:32 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted March 26, 2015 Author Share Posted March 26, 2015 Posted by bert baker on 24/03/2015 17:47:32: Had a couple they are nice, especially if fitted with large wheels, touch and goes are funny when watching the wheels springing back and forward. above 120 four stroke defo not lower, no doubt someone would have flown on a lower size, go large and enjoy. As it is to be a new build I would recommend sheeting the tail feathers for extra strength, it is advised when using larger engines, you may find yourself fitting a petrol later on so it will save hassle and do it first. I've just looked at the leg wheel spindles, at 4.9 mm dia rod are you sure they spring about. They remind me of a spoke from a tractor wheel.. I've no other bits for this yet and I recon if I change the undercarriage that would give me more options inside the fuselage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wood Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 Hi Trebor, I changed the u/c on latest Magician to an Alpha Wing composite job. (Mainly to make room for LiPo as it's electric.) Not cheap but available in a few sizes & good quality. A 1/4" ply plate is used for mounting, using captive nuts & nylon bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 The Mystic is a great flying model The one I flew for a club mate had a ST 90 for power that would keep cutting out suddenly .Not a problem though as it would glide on .........and ................on........ and...............on and always made it back to the patch .Ive never flown the smaller versions though . Edited By Engine Doctor on 26/03/2015 10:51:49 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted March 26, 2015 Author Share Posted March 26, 2015 Is that a fibreglass undercarriage Richard ? I've been looking for some but they must be hiding under specific model spares headings / titles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wood Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 Yes, it's fibreglass - very light & strong. They're the same type as supplied in some Chris Foss kits: **LINK** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.. Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 Get a nice shiny new OS 91 fourstroke on there Bob , you know it makes sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted March 26, 2015 Author Share Posted March 26, 2015 So far the results are 90 2/stroke or 120 4/stroke, not sure on that 91... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted March 26, 2015 Author Share Posted March 26, 2015 Posted by Richard Wood on 26/03/2015 11:37:11: Yes, it's fibreglass - very light & strong. They're the same type as supplied in some Chris Foss kits: **LINK** That medium is closest for me but 27 mm narrower, the large would stick out 15 mm either side on the top mounted. Would 13 mm make any difference each side on the wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wood Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 A 27mm narrower overall track width between the wheels shouldn't be much of a problem. Incidentally M6 nylon bolts into captive nuts is the best way to fix these things. Metal bolts will rip out bits of the fuselage in a heavy arrival, but nylon bolts should shear - as intended, & leave the fuselage undamaged. Edited By Richard Wood on 26/03/2015 16:35:39 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 trebor.... unless you need to alter the mystic set up-I would go with what is in the kit for an undercarriage..... it works as intended etc......also a 91/4st will struggle with the model(in my experience/opinion) .....with the 90/ST 2st...I felt it could have done with a bit more umph... ken Anderson...ne...1 umph dept. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted March 26, 2015 Author Share Posted March 26, 2015 Cheers Ken, I was only thinking about the drilling of bulkheads. The motor mounts would be ok but throttle line control not knowing what motor yet means I have to wait before I start it as the wheel mount bulkhead might be a sod to alter afterwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted March 31, 2015 Author Share Posted March 31, 2015 Anyone advise on these as nothing is mentioned in the instructions. Servos, which type and size. Engine mount plastic glass type or alloy ? I know the alloy will increase the noise from the engine also vibration which would be bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 I use the standard moulded plastic engine mounts for both 90 2s or 120 4s motors. As for servos, I'd step up a size from 'standard' size - 3003, 148, HS322 and the like which are around 3kg.cm output, maybe 5kg.cm + size, HS645, 3152 or for budget servos MG996Rs seem ok, If you ca stretch to it I really like the Savox 7kg.cm units at around £13 a throw for SC0352, or for a little more SC0254s Edited By Bob Cotsford on 31/03/2015 11:26:07 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted March 31, 2015 Author Share Posted March 31, 2015 Would I be better mounting servos in the wing smack in the middle of aileron or stick to the internal rods just working off 1 servo ? How do you work out which servos needed is it to do with the scale / size of the plane and the power from the engine ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 Personal choice in a one piece wing. Fashion says to use two servos these days but for a general sports model a single servo driving torque rods still works fine. No doubt that will be immediately contradicted but it works ok for me on my Acrowot and Dragon Lady. If you use a single servo I'd definitely go for a 5-7kg.cm rated servo. For a twin setup you can use 3003/3001/148/HS322/HS325 or similar 3kg.cm types. I try to mount twin servos at about 1/3 of the aileron span out from the centre of the wing. That seems a reasonable compromise between keeping the extensions a bit shorter and balancing the potential for the aileron to twist to me. As for sizing servos - it's a lot of guesswork really, based on the expected speed and size of the model, and the way in which it will be flown. there are calculators out there but even they involve a degree of guesswork regarding the speed of the model and how much control deflection will be needed. What I'm suggesting above is what I've found to work, pure practical experience, nothing more. For a 90 size aerobatic sports model with a reasonable safety margin you can use standard servos but control may be a bit soggy at the limits of the model once you start throwing it around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wood Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 With Bob on the single servo with torque rods arrangement. It works perfectly well in a sports model & has the advantage of being enclosed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted March 31, 2015 Author Share Posted March 31, 2015 Thanks, here's another one. On the destructions it mentions sheeting the tail if a motor larger than .90 is used. Now does that mean sheeting on top of the planned structure, or both sides of structure, or instead of the original structure just use sheet material. Now if your not confused by now like I am does it mean the elevator or rudder or both ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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