Wots Wot pilots electric power?

[Vinegar Dave]

OK i am going for an electric wots wot. I am thinking of a G110 ( 295kv) from hobbyking with a 80esc running on a 6S 5000mha. firing a 13 X 6 prop

That maybe a bit OTT but looks good on paper but will it fit...help me out here guys

[Geoff S]

Not looked into it in a lot of detail but at first thought it looks a bit heavy and more than you need to swing a 13x6. My recent electric conversion with a motor with a kv of 755 will swing a 13x6.5 but draws just over 60 amps from a 4S 3600 LiPo. That was too much for the motor (max I is 50 amps for 30 seconds). The 4s 3600 maH pack weighs 450 grams (nearly 1 lb) IIRC. Your 6S will be getting on for double that at a guess. My model weighs just shy of 6lbs ready to fly and seems OK with a 12x8 at 9k rpm (only flown it twice).. How heavy do you think the Wots Wot will be?

Geoff

[Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator]

My Wots Wot electric set up is:

1. An AXI 4120/20 Gold Line - expensive yes, but a lovely bit of kit that will last you years.

2. The ESC is a 70A Black Mantis.

3. The battery is a 6s 3000mAh

4. On the prop I have gone bigger than the recommended, at a 14x6.

That gives me excellent performance - take off at half throttle. Scale aeros no problem. Not quite unlimited vertical but pretty close! Flight times - 9 mins easy, 10mins if you don't do too many verticals!

BEB

[Neil Middlemiss]

My Wots Wot electric setup is:-

Redback .61 package from Hobby Headquarters in Sydney.

Which is a 4250/06 650kv brushless out runner with a 60 amp esc running on 5S with a 14x7e APC prop.

The vertical performance is amazing. Overall flight performance is great.

[Old Geezer]

I have a 4120/14 out of a deceased Wot4 and some 3S 3300 packs - I have a 70 amp esc to complete the set-up - looks like I've found a home for them all!

[Frank Skilbeck]

Dave, as you will see from the comments above a 295kv motor will need a bigger prop than a 13 x 6 to produce any real power on a 6s battery, you'd be better off with a motor in the 500-600 kv range on a 6s. Running the G110 with a 13 x 6 on a 6s battery will give you around 10amps/200watts at W.O.T., great for taxying around , the G110 would need a 17 x 10 to get above 700 watts (35 amps) a 13 x 6 on a 600 kv motor and 6s would give over 900 watts.

[Jon Laughton]

My set up: 6S 4300 mAh with an emax motor, 80A ESC and 14x6 wooden prop

The battery is a tight fit but does go in....and on this set up the performance is pretty hot!

I have also fitted a carbon copy u/c with more forward sweep to help take offs...

Jon

[Bob Cotsford]

I'm converting my Wots wot ARTF to electric power, are there any changes in thinking on power and battery installation in the light of experience? I've ordered the electric fittings kit to simplify things.

I have just liberated the power train from an E-Flite Splendor so I have a BL50 525kv motor, roughly 4656 sized and rated at 56A (odd number I know) with a 60A (75A burst, 5v5A switched bec) E-Flite speed control which I was running on 6S with a 14*7 APC-E. Battery wise I have a variety from 3700 to 5000mAh. How does that all stack up?

ps - if anyone is putting a kit together and would like a nice pre-cut cowl to suite a sidewinder four stroke I'm up for swapping mine + cash for an uncut cowl.

[Chris Walby]

V Dave, don't do it !! IMHO its a very low KV motor and I think you will have to swing a big diameter/ pitchy prop to get the performance you want.

Mine set up is

Motor Dynamic 5055 680KV 1280W 80A, 80 ESC, prop 14x8.5 (85% max load) on 5S4500

Will climb vertical and flies a treat

PS from my testing for a 320KV on 5S on a 16 x 10 three blade (the biggest I have!) gave me 37A and 3.1Kg static thrust + will look like a windmill !

PPS - Again from experience there is a flaw with the battery try retaining method....but an easy fix.

[Bob Cotsford]

525kv too low? It ain't that much lower than your motor! The Splendor is a fully aerobatic foamy and I shouldn't have thought the 1000W power train would really be that wimpy. In real terms that's 1.3hp, a healthy 60 2s or 90 4s on a real world prop. Theoretical 10k rpm and the 14*7 pulled the Splendor around 'with gusto' as they say.

I have a 430kv motor in my Curare turning a 12*10 on 6s, that's not exactly a slouch either.

Right, your answering the first post from 2015. How about my proposed setup? Mods to the supplied electric kit?

[Tomtom39]

Hello Bob. No real issues re the electric conversion kit from Ripmax. Mounts were fine but you may need to tailor to your motor for fit. I'm using the standard Ripmax bits, with exception of having to widen the hatch area to fit my 6s 5000's . Worth making a copy of the battery tray as easily misplaced . I changed the captive bolt to 6mm (only because i had loads of  nylon screw/bolts . Had two so far and both have been firm favorites.

Edited By Tomtom39 on 16/05/2018 15:21:52

[Tomtom39]

Just been looking at your proposed motor . Cant see much info on the net on it. I'm using the Eflite Power 60 470KV on 16x8 APCE . Pulls about 1300W on sub 75 amps. Let me know if you want pics etc (I cant seem to upload those but could email them to you )

[Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator]

Its a while ago now, but I don't recall having any issues with implementing the electric set up I describe above.

Operationally it has proved fine - I know some don't like the battery retraint method - but I have no problem with it. Basically I built two extra trays (copying the first) and three batteries are perminantly allocated to this model, taped onto those trays. I change the tape every couple of months that's all.

BEB

Edited By Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 16/05/2018 15:32:06

[Bob Cotsford]

Taj, the 50 is a step down, would you say the 60 setup has more than enough power? Seeing as these models fly on a 46 ic, I'm hoping it will suit my more relaxed flying style of late.

David, good idea, I'm sure I have plenty of liteply in stock. The packs that were Splendor specific should do the trick for this - I hope!

[Tomtom39]

60 will nearly prop hang on the 6 S . Ive actually flown mine off the ground and carried out some pretty basic aero's on a duff motor . Which having stuck it on the watt meter was reading 35W per lb! So to answer your question . I don't think you will have too much of an issue with a .46 . It should give you all the fun with slow grace . Might even go vertical ! Take care.

[Tomtom39]

Bob sent you PM

[Bob Cotsford]

Thanks, I'm just getting ready to take my ancient Dad out for a 93rd birthday meal, I'll reply later.

[Chris Walby]

Its a while ago now, but I don't recall having any issues with implementing the electric set up I describe above.

Operationally it has proved fine - I know some don't like the battery retraint method - but I have no problem with it. Basically I built two extra trays (copying the first) and three batteries are perminantly allocated to this model, taped onto those trays. I change the tape every couple of months that's all.

BEB

IMHO I have to beg to differ, as standard the banjo style hole and nylon screw is a accident waiting to happen as it will only be a matter of time before it will come loose and the battery fall out (been there, had that).

The mod is simple and does not affect the original design so you can make a couple in case you loose one, just far better than major rebuilding in my book

.

[Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator]

Well of course one of the beauties of this hobby is the independence it permits; "your aeroplane, your rules"!

Obviously that's fine, but I can only report as I have found - after literally hundreds of flights with this model I have never had the slightest cause to doubt the retention system. Never once, as far as I can recollect, have I even found the screw to be slightly lose.

BEB

[Bob Cotsford]

The deed is almost done. The supplied standoffs were twice as long as I needed, luckily I had a set of 35mm ones left over from my petrol model period and those were just right. Of course I had to drill the alloy adaptor plate to suit my motor but otherwise it went together easily enough.

I did add a 1/8" ply doubler under the battery tray to give the captive nut a bit more to bite on. I swapped the captive nut for a 5mm one and used a 5mm nylon thumbscrew to lock the battery plate. All I need do now is make a couple of extra battery plates. If I make some clones of the tray setup I can standardise on it for 6S models. At the moment that's just the Curare but it seems as good a system as any. I haven't tried balancing it with a battery in place but I suspect that I will get away with little or no lead needed.

As for the cowl, clubmate Eddy has promised me his uncut spare one, nice one Eddy!

[Bob Cotsford]

I actually made a batch of 5 each trays and plates, just for future standardisation. A 3700 6S 35C Zippy compact is a squeeze, 25C fits more easily. First test on the 14*7 APC-E gave about 59A 1300-ish watts. That's pushing this 56A motor and 60A esc a bit much. I'll try a 13*6.5" and 13*8" when they arrives, according to E-calc it should get more like 1000W keeping everything within limits. I've also fitted the battery tray system into my Curare, that too just takes the 35C cells if they breathe in a bit.

Edited By Bob Cotsford on 27/05/2018 15:46:12

[Bob Cotsford]

Well, that didn't last long. First power runs on a 14*7 showed 1300W, I chickened out and swapped to a 13*7 to save frying the esc or motor. First take-off went like this: check all controls moving the right way, taxi out, call take off, accelerate like a rat up a drainpipe, lift off then at about 30 feet the WW rolled hard left. Odd, I thgought, there's no wind. Full right aileron and full right rudder caught it, but now the nose went up. Full down more or less held it, but now I had the sticks in the corners with the model heading towards the forbidden zone so I backed off the throttle. Instant violent spin. From 30 or 40m feet. The nose and cabane area were destroyed, but the motor, wings and everything back of the cabane pylon survived pretty much untouched.

The autopsy revealed a dead aileron servo. Was it a cheap HK Towerpro or Turnigy as I'd used on the elevator and rudder I hear you ask? No, it was a genuine Futaba 3001.

What are the lessons to be learned?

Even brand name gear bites.

Even our favorite models are just lumps of wood thrown into the air just like the chuck gliders we lobbed around as schoolkids.

Most important of all - Kings Lynn Models are an excellent shop for mail order replacement airframes

Edited By Bob Cotsford on 04/06/2018 08:40:38

[Chris Walby]

Bob, sorry to hear about the flight, at least I got a few flights in until the battery fell out of mine! It had one side of the fuselage, carbine and holes in the underside of the wings so was repairable and is back doing a sterling job.

Mine flies a very wide speed envelop and will whistle if pushed in a dive (although I take that as a warning to back off )

Let us know when you get it back together and all the best.

[Bob Cotsford]

Not a lot of support for the soldered joints, the signal wire joint failed. The exposed wire strands look a bit dark too. It's a bit of a fuzzy pic but it's a phone, not a camera. The good news is that Kings Lynn models tell me the new one arrives tomorrow courtesey of DPD.

[Geoff S]

Actually the very close grommet should act as strain relief for all three servo connections and stopp any flexing that make the connections break. As you say, the picture isn't super clear but none of the 3 look to be very good and the signal wire looks a dry joint to me.

Are you sure it's a genuine Futaba 3001? It doesn't look as if any of the connections was ever truly sound even when it was manufactured.

Hope you get back into the air ASAP. I admire your phylosophical approach. I'm not sure I would feel the same if I lost either of my 2 latest creations (DB Gypsy (Cirrus) Moth and Skyways Percival Mew Gull).

Geoff