Peter Miller Posted January 24, 2016 Share Posted January 24, 2016 Now that is dedication to making sure you got it right.! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted January 24, 2016 Share Posted January 24, 2016 Sometimes an error can be overcome by bodging but usually it's better and often quicker to re-do the part entirely. David may be the only person building exactly to the plan so full marks for doing it properly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hayward. Posted January 31, 2016 Author Share Posted January 31, 2016 So, after my minor discretion the second half of the wing is in pretty much the same state as the first and ready for the ceremonial joining of the two halves. I have followed Peter's method in as much as R1 of the first half is perpendicular to the board when built, so all the dihedral angle goes onto R1 of the second half; trust I have that right. I came up with the following method to enable me to cut the spars at the correct angle for them all to meet.... A temporary template the length of the wing panel, raised by 2" to give me the angle. Any other suggestions? So then the necessary image of the two parts clamped and drying. I used epoxy on the areas covered by the dihedral brace and pva on all other parts. Having gone to the trouble of trying to get the angle on the top spar correct and a nice close joint I ended up with about a 1/16" gap between them. While I would have preferred a closer joint I am trusting that the strength of this joint comes from the brace running along the spars and my 1/16" gap won't be an issue? Edited By David Hayward. on 31/01/2016 17:43:45 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 Yes brace gives the strength, I get little gaps all over, fill em with glue like the rest of us John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hayward. Posted January 31, 2016 Author Share Posted January 31, 2016 Thanks John, I don't feel so bad about it now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hayward. Posted January 31, 2016 Author Share Posted January 31, 2016 Decided to tackle the aileron bell crank installation next never having done this type of installation before. I have made my own bell cranks from some 1/8th plastic, mounted these on ply plates as per plan, then attached piano wire linkage to servo having just bent the end 90 degrees; I will solder a washer on to secure later, but to begin with I just wanted to assemble everything dry and check operation. It became obvious once assembled that the piano wire link should lie central top to bottom but close to the leading edge side of the hole as movement in either direction causes the piano wire to move back towards the trailing edge side; if that all makes sense? a couple of images should hopefully make this clear... I have initially tack glued this and when this is dry and the mountings are held in position I will finally glue and add triangle section to support. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 That all sounds perfect. Just like I set mine up. And on your problem with the bgap betwen the root ribs. Now you know WHY you glue the second R-1 in while joining the wings. That way there is no gap!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 Either use a nylock nut or make sure you thread lock those bolts, they're very sneaky and run off once covered John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hayward. Posted January 31, 2016 Author Share Posted January 31, 2016 Thank you gents; its good to get your affirmation so I know I'm not too far off track. I probably didn't explain it very well Peter but I managed to follow your instructions and glue the second R1 when joining the two wing halves, but I did end up with a small gap between the ends of the top spars which you can see here.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 I sometimes do the same. The dihedral brace will cover that and the sheet covering joining to the ribs will add strength. An almost identical wing withstood 24.8G so you don'tneed to worry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hayward. Posted February 2, 2016 Author Share Posted February 2, 2016 A quick question about the undercarriage legs, I have belatedly realised the ply support actually goes one full rib/bay beyond the end of th u/c legs; assume this is correct and not a discrepancy on the plan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devcon1 Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 Hi David, I guess it would go beyond to help spread the load into the wing structure. Great build, very neat and you're a braver man than I to attempt that fix on the wing. Regards John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 Actually it is as per my drawing Not sure why I did it that way but it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hayward. Posted February 2, 2016 Author Share Posted February 2, 2016 Thank you John, Peter, had a sudden moment of doubt and wanted to make sure as I was about to rout out the sheeting to expose the channel for the u/c wire. I'll get to it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hayward. Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 Continuing with the aileron linkage and servo set up I had a look at how I could mount the servo within the centre section as required. I came up with the cradle type of structure here, however later discovered this was actually too deep and fouled F4 when offering the wing up to the fuselage to check; good job I checked! Plan B, I noticed Peter has suggested some Radio Active servo mounts so have ordered a set of these; much simpler. While I wait for these to come I carried on with the wing tips. It seems people have approached these in different ways, I have kept pretty much to plan (I believe) and this is what I have so far, top and bottom view... Yet to cut and fit the edge strips around the perimeter of the tips but this will be next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 The servo mounts make life so easy. Just screw them to the ply plate, slider the servo lugs into the slot, screw the caps on, job done. You may have to thin the servo mounting lugs down a bit but that is no problem. Tips looking good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 I discovered just this morning that items made by RadioActive Manufacturing are available by phoning them direct. Website has catalogue only no online sales so you have to phone. Item CA 190 may be the servo mount you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hayward. Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 Hi KC, actually ordered them from RCWorld: - Should arrive today, fingers crossed. Edited By David Hayward. on 08/02/2016 14:06:23 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hayward. Posted February 10, 2016 Author Share Posted February 10, 2016 Now added the tip outer strips. Wasn't sure if these also went under the leading edge sheeting however have also fitted here and it seems to make the sheeting fitting a little easier. I have sanded down the strip under the sheeting more so it will match the height of the rest of the edge strip; if that makes sense? My servo mount brackets duly arrived and are now fitted with an addition 1/8th plywood plate under to give more depth for the fixing screws plus it gives my linkage some necessary clearance from the base . I used a drilled out 2BA nut to bond the piano wire linkages together and connected to a rx for testing of operation so far; all good, full movement, no binding of the linkage or stressing of the servo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 Actually the strips were not meant to go undr the sheet but that was just the lazy way that I did it. I do like your use of the nut for the connection. Takes up a little more space but it does allow the solder to flow better than in the 8 SWG tube that I use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 David, could you give a fuller explanation of how you soldered it all up? . There may be many others who have not quite reached this stage yet who might be glad of some tips. I assume you found some way to fix both ailerons firmly at neutral before soldering....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 Well I don't know aboutDavid but I use a couple of paper clips, the big bulldog clips. Nthingmoves when clamped with them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hayward. Posted February 10, 2016 Author Share Posted February 10, 2016 Well the piano wires from the servo position are connected to the bell cranks on either wing, which you can see in some previous photo's. The bell crank ply mounting plates now have balsa triangular section to strengthen the bond to the wing ribs. The two piano wires from each bell crank obviously need to cross over slightly in the centre of the wing (servo position) with the nut or appropriate size tube slid over them. At this point I centred the bell cranks and held in position with pins pushed into the balsa triangle section adjacent to the bell cranks, two for each. The link wire to the servo is then added, passing through the nut, with the servo attached but not fixed in position yet. I then soldered the joint with a heavy duty soldering iron (not sure of the wattage, it was my fathers, so its pretty old) having previously cleaned the wire and nut to ensure a good solder joint; fairly tight space but managed not to melt anything apart from the solder. Next I connected the servo to a rx and tested operation (release the pins holding the bell crank first) holding in a position where movement is free etc; mark and fix the servo; job done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 Very neat building indeed David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 Thanks for the explanation David - it should be useful to lots of other builders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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