i12fly Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 Just watch the CoG. When I built mine last year the the CoG was exactly as the position on the plan -but I didn't have it in a nose down position as stated, it was perfectly at flying attitude with no fuel. Big mistake, It was badly tail heavy, struggled to get it round the circuit but managed to land with no damage. I moved the CoG 15mm forward using 8 oz lead in the cowl and it flies beautifully now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Lewton Posted February 14, 2016 Share Posted February 14, 2016 Sorry differint kit I know and the hinged idear for the cowl looks a fantastic idear. Smaller kit thd DB pup. A different set up but same problem, I made the side panel removeable so could access the battery bay i installed, worked a treat on this model. It was a real pleasure to build that kit. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simpson j Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 Hi looking for a pilot for my puppeteer what scale ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 Posted by simpson j on 27/04/2016 11:09:05: Hi looking for a pilot for my puppeteer what scale ? One fifth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 I thought the Flair Scouts were 1/6th? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leslie Crane 1 Posted April 27, 2016 Author Share Posted April 27, 2016 I agree with one sixth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 The Sopwith Pup had a wingspan of 26 ft 6 ins. A 1/6 scale model would have a 4 ft 5 ins wingspan. The Puppeteer has a wingspan of 5 ft. 26 ft 6 ins divided by 5 is 5 ft 4 ins so the Puppeteer is slightly closer to 1/5 scale than to 1/6. You could fit a 1/6 pilot and claim that he is a bit short in the leg! I have built a Baronette and alongside a Puppeteer you could see that they were designed to different scales. I believe that all of the other models in the Flair Scout series were to 1/6 scale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted April 28, 2016 Share Posted April 28, 2016 This is a 1/6th scale figure in the cockpit of my Pupeteer, you wouldn't get a 1/5th scale chap in there .... Flair recomend a 1/6th scale Williams Bros dummy engine and a 1/4 scale gun so take your pick Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simpson j Posted April 29, 2016 Share Posted April 29, 2016 Hi Danny what make is your pilot ? Is it a ah design? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted April 29, 2016 Share Posted April 29, 2016 Hi, that chap is a Dragon figure, way too heavy to use in a flying model. I was just playing around. I think I used an "aces of iron" pilot figure in the end but I am afraid I cannot really remember. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyD Posted November 26, 2016 Share Posted November 26, 2016 just been reading through all the posts about spitting the fuselage in half and is it an option on a larger I/4 scale plane and if so how strong does it need to be and what stresses are actually on the joint and would it be a good idea many thx. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy48 Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 Posted by Danny Fenton on 13/02/2016 22:50:40: Great to see so many splitting their Pupeteers behind the cockpit I did this a few years back, 2009. I shortened the nose by over 2" and lengthened the undercarriage to make it a bit more scale like. It was originally a smashed wreck and I restored and converted it to electric. Build blog is on here The join is not really noticeable I had to look twice at this! It looks very much like mine. The join is not noticeable. I notice Danny has used N6452 (the Fleet Air Arm replica) to model his on. I used this one rather than the Shuttleworth one as the side roundel is positioned further back so as not to go over the fuselage join. The join needs to be secure and quite strong, but I would argue given they type of flying to be done with the plane, the stresses are not that great. Time will tell! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leslie Crane 1 Posted November 29, 2016 Author Share Posted November 29, 2016 Mine was the first post on this thread. I did not in the end split the fuselage. I cut an extra firewall which is bolted to the original and mounted the motor and esc on the front of that inside the cowling. Plenty of cooling. I cut a hatch on the top of the nose between the cowling and the front struts for battery insertion and removal. Additional lead is inside the cowling. Flies on a 4s 4500 with a 14 x 7 prop. Motor is 580kv with a 60 esc. Flies, as all Flair planes, really well. It has the markings of Lt. Kawaida of the Japanese army air force May 1921. I will try to add a photo but if it doesn't come off there is a picture of it in flight in the latest RCME mag. Just finishing a Traplet plan 'Bloody Mary' after which I will be starting the Flair Bristol F2b fighter the kit for which I got for an amazing price of £80 Sadly cant get photo. Les Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin b Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 For anybody interested there a kit currently for sale on e-bay. **LINK** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul james 8 Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 The proper pilot for the Pup isn't going to be wearing an oxygen mask It is the 1/6 scale "Albert" pilot, named after the famous WW1 pilot Albert Ball. I have 2 Pups, one I built and one I bought recently that needs a little work to bring it up to standard. Here is Albert in situ in the one I built. Edited By Paul james 8 on 19/03/2017 22:06:56 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Posted April 5, 2017 Share Posted April 5, 2017 Posted by Leslie Crane 1 on 30/01/2016 19:03:17: Hi guys I have just bought a Puppeteer kit and am proposing to build as an electric model. Before starting I wondered if anyone has photos of a conversion, in particular where to place batteries and place the shelf or box, how and where you have made the hatch and any of the motor mount. Any advice would also be appreciated. Not sensible to re-invent the wheel if there is already a working solution out there. Many thanks in advance Les Hello where you bought Puppeteer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted April 5, 2017 Share Posted April 5, 2017 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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