Former Member Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Williams Posted May 29, 2016 Author Share Posted May 29, 2016 Thanks Percy. Just Engines' own range of Superquiet mufflers now just comes up as 'not available' on their website - I'll have to give them a ring. I'll check out the Turbo mufflers also. I see they have a nice lip to secure a silicone extension - I put one on the standard Saito muffler with both cable ties and twisted wire, and it just fell off. Rich - I used Ripmax Quartz 501 servos, they seem fine. Edited By David P Williams on 29/05/2016 10:54:57 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 Just as an aside, have you had any noise test carried out with the Turboheader and standard silencers for comparison? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 Posted by David P Williams on 29/05/2016 10:53:02: Thanks Percy. Just Engines' own range of Superquiet mufflers now just comes up as 'not available' on their website - I'll have to give them a ring. I'll check out the Turbo mufflers also. I see they have a nice lip to secure a silicone extension - I put one on the standard Saito muffler with both cable ties and twisted wire, and it just fell off. Rich - I used Ripmax Quartz 501 servos, they seem fine. Edited By David P Williams on 29/05/2016 10:54:57 Thanks, they look good value. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 Posted by Percy Verance on 29/05/2016 11:57:59: Those Ripmax servos seem good David, as do the Airtek Hobbies DMM150 digital metal geared jobs at just a few quid more. Theirs have twice the torque at 4.8v too! Edited By Percy Verance on 29/05/2016 11:58:54 Thanks Percy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 Posted by David P Williams on 26/02/2016 21:08:07: Thanks Justin. The fittings are generally good. I wasn't totally happy with the clevises - the rolled part where the thread is seemed badly formed, and the threads were a bit loose on the pushrods, so I chose to replace them with better quality ones. One of my flying friends almost lost his AcroWot XL recently when a clevis came adrift so I guess I was being ultra cautious about this. I think the control horns will do - we'll see. It seems nicely made and finished, but the biggest problem was with the tail. The fin and tailplane are 8mm thick, but the pre-cut slots are 9-10mm wide. Bit of messing around to pack them correctly and get the alignment right. I'll try to get it assembled, weighed and photographed tomorrow. My build is going smoothly, but the clevises supplied were the same as David's, shocking and inconsistent quality. Strange, because otherwise, it appears to be a very well put together model - probably the best artf model I have put together to date. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted July 4, 2016 Share Posted July 4, 2016 Agree with you guys on clevises. Unfortunately Ripmax also use the same awful clevises on the Wot 4 XL too. If used as intended I think they are dangerously loose . . I have also seen the pin fall out on them. I replaced all of mine with proper branded ones which have a decent purchase on the thread rather than these wobbly things. Making poor quality parts like this is a waste of resources and could result in needless damage . I was happy with most of the other fittings which seem of decent quality . The control horns look plasticky but they worked well on my Wot 4 XL so I am using them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted July 4, 2016 Share Posted July 4, 2016 Yes, its bizarre that they use such bad items - I am going to remove mine and replace them all..as you say, the rest of the kit is so well put together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 The stage I am at now is getting the engine mounting done. I have already cut and reinforced the servo mountings in the tail, but I'm not putting the tail plane on until the engine mounts are finished as it is easy to damage the tail in my small workshop. I have decided to mount my Laser 155 on its side rather than inverted. That makes the carburettor height perfect as standard and makes cooling easy, but does add some lateral imbalance. I hope to counteract that by locating my oversized RX battery on the opposite side. I am just laminating some made up ply 3cm blocks to hold the engine mount and give the required 175mm distance from firewall to spinner back plate. Will post photos later too . Good luck with your builds chaps and keep up the posts😊 Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 07/07/2016 12:42:13 Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 07/07/2016 12:43:53 Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 07/07/2016 12:46:25 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 A gram or two of lead right out on the wing tip will serve you better. If the wood on the tip edge is thick enough I've seen it pushed in there...very discrete . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 Good idea Tim, I am clumsy and forever bashing mine, the tail always gets some punishment - just recently I knocked the tail on my Yak getting it into the car and had to reglue it! Now that my Yak is finished and flying I'll be getting on with the wots wot. I noticed tonight the tank is mounted near the firewall, how do you get in there to locate the straps, Velcro or whatever? There are slots for straps but I can't see anyway of reaching them! Edited By Rich2 on 09/07/2016 18:14:27 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 Hi Rich. I'm not quite sure re straps but what I normally do is use a couple of extra long zip ties and put them in with just a few clicks on Before the tank . Then put the tank in and pull them tight . I think I might need to slightly raise the tank for my carburettor height so I will put foam underneath with some rubber glue. I coated the inside of the fuselage with West Epoxy too which should make it tougher. I also added a long spruce rib running to the engine firewall and first bulkhead and it as been epoxied in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 Here is the rib on top of the engine bay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 I guess zip ties are the way to go What's the spruce rib for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 Here are the engine mount blocks for my laser 155 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 Here are the tail servo slots I cut and reinforced Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 These photos were before the epoxy went in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted July 13, 2016 Share Posted July 13, 2016 One question I would like to ask fellow WotsWotters is regarding the steerable tail wheel. I am thinking of leaving it to "free castor", not bothering to connect it to the rudder. Is that a mistake? I guess it's not hard to link but seems extra faff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denis Watkins Posted July 13, 2016 Share Posted July 13, 2016 A castoring tail can be a nightmare Tim, it is well worth the FAFF connecting it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted July 13, 2016 Share Posted July 13, 2016 Cheers Denis. I will heed your advice and not be lazy. I haven't experienced a castoring one yet so will connect it up properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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