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Exhaust Pipe Length


Tedebear
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I've just pulled the Irvine 40 off my Tutor 40 mk2 and replaced it with an Irvine 53.

I was thinking of running flexi pipe from the silencer outlet, under the fuselage and exiting right at the back end under the tail plane. The theory being that I wouldn't get all that oily cr*p all over the aeroplane. Does anyone have any idea if this would cause any ill affects?

Cheers

Steve

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I guess it may just mean you will get no power advantage going from 40 to 53.

What I can be sure of is, it will cost an arm and a leg in flexible pipe or silicone tubing!

I suggest a baby wipe or two may be the best solution smiley

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In practice, a bit of pipe taking the exhaust below the fuselage, and venting there, leaves little gunk on the plane, with little loss of power.

The question to ask is why your proposed solution is not universal. The answer is heavy and power consuming.

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HI .

All my fleet including " Autogyros " , "Canards " ,"High wing Trainers ", " Scale " and " Aerobatic " planes , with engines raising in size from 25s to 60s have exhaust extensions up to 12" long . These are made from B&Q's best plastic tubing , secured to the exhaust by " Jubilee clips " and held to the undercarriages with garden tie wire .

I've never had a failure and can't notice any drop off in performance .Most of my power plants are either OS or SC .It certainly keeps the model clean ,and by putting a suitable bung in the end of the pipe , stops oil from leaking when in storage .

Please remember to take the bung out when trying to start the engine though .! ! !

If there is a drop off in performance you 'll never notice it on a trainer .

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Posted by Percy Verance on 01/06/2016 21:24:39:

Assuming the engine isn't badly worn, if you use fuel with synthetic oil then most of the oil gets burned during the combustion process and shouldn't end up plastered all over the model........

I'll have 50p says your using the wrong fuel.

Percy, please can you specifically recommend a low-residue fuel for .40 to .53 size two-strokes? I have only ever used caster before...

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20% castor? that would do it.

Use Model Technics Laser 5 fuel. Its 5% nitro and 15% fully synthetic oil. I know all of your club experts will tell you thats not enough oil but it really is. My 1/8 nitro car runs with only 10% oil and its going at 38,000rpm!

I use the Laser 5 fuel on my Laser engines as well as my saito, enya, asp and os's. I have plain bearing 2 strokes running extremely well on this fuel and a number of guys at my club have converted to it.

The other things that will help clean up your engine are making sure you lean the engine off fully. Again the club experts will tell you to run it 200rpm rich but that is just a waste of fuel. Peak the engine for max rpm then at most 2 clicks rich. Do not mistake an over heated engine for a lean one. If it dies in flight after a few minutes, let it cool off and then fly it again without refilling the tank. If it does exactly the same as it did the first flight and works for a few minutes before slowly loosing power then its too hot not too lean. A redesign of the cowling or less full throttle use would be the solution. If however it wont go back to full power then the reduced tank level has made it go lean and thats what killed it. Check your tank height/pressure pipes if this happens.

Also Dont do the nose up test (unless you are prop hanging its really pointless) and make sure you also lean off your slow running needle as far as the engine will allow. Remember that anything below about half throttle is mostly controlled by the slow run needle and there are large savings to be made in terms of fuel consumption. It will also help with throttle pick up and overall reliability.

Edited By Jon Harper - Laser Engines on 02/06/2016 13:53:32

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