Taranis question

[David perry 1]

Brand new Taranis X9D+ tranny

 

Theres a constant buzzing coming from the speaker - in fairness it is getting slightly quieter but it's still there. Is this normal?

 

Im also struggling to et it to bind: the rx (x4r) just has the single fashing red LED (loss of RF). Off to youchoob for that one.  When I enter bind mode I geta a flashing 'bind' but no beeping.

 

D

Edited By David perry 1 on 22/06/2016 21:53:29

[Andy48]

1. You do get a slight buzzing.

2. In all probability your transmitter is too close to the receiver. It should be at least one metre away. Presuming tx and rx are EU LBT versions.

Most stuff on the internet for OpenTX is now well out of date and can be very confusing

I suggest you update transmitter to latest version of OpenTX.

Full documentation for latest version of OpenTX and the Taranis here;

**LINK**

[David perry 1]

Cheers Andy.

There are a few quirks...the units readouts are all mixed up; set ft and get...mAh!! Oh the fun I have had.

Im loving this Taranis. Its like multiplex but better.

D

[David perry 1]

Took my Taranis out for the first time today in aan old but trusted Easy Pigeon! The telemetry worked fine and the control was rock solid... equal to any 35MHz!

The only query is the altimetry: the taranis Tx gives me various options, all of which aare wrong. To get the old girl saying "feet" I need to selevt "%"...if I select "ft" she calls out "milliamp hours". Furthermore, even when calling feet she is actually measuring metres. Is there a way to sort this? Do I need to reload the very latest firmware? Im rather nervous of doing this lest I reduce my new purchase to a smoldering pile of SMD components.

But apart from that (which I can after all convert in my head - or just set her to call metres) Im delighted with Taranis because of the vario...well worth the money for the enjoymement I have just had. It really has added another dimension.

D

[Andy48]

You've got the wrong sound pack installed for the version of OpenTX you've got installed.

Best bet is to update to OpenTX 2.1 if you haven't already, then you must install a 2.1 version sound pack. Amber is perhaps the best, and annoys the *** out of fellow flyers.

The telemetry on OpenTX 2.1 is quite different to earlier versions, so it is best to start off with this rather than have to switch later.

If you look in my docs, it shows you how to get the vario working correctly, but the docs are written for 2.1.

Its dead easy to update.

Edited By Andy48 on 27/06/2016 19:16:01

[David perry 1]

Posted by Andy48 on 27/06/2016 19:13:13:

Its dead easy to update.

Yes, so I keep reading...yet it all seems written in greek! Do I NEED to read the micro SD on computer rather than via the tx? I dont have a micro SD reader, so will need to buy one.

Ive tried several times to make sense of downloading, but always fail. If I open the tx with the inwards trims technique I get 'write firmware, restore eeprom, exit' which i thought meant I had the right bootloader (it says bootloader 2.1.6).

[Andy48]

Read Reference Section 1, page 9 of my documentation. Its all there.

The bootloader does not need to have the same update number as OpenTX, its described above.

[David perry 1]

2

[David perry 1]

Thanks Andy,

I'll go dark a it while I read through this stuff.

I have got as far as putting the firmware into the firmwares folder on the taranis but it wont update when I say 'write firmware' It just says 'not a valid file'.

I shall disappear and read my way through

D

[Tim Reeves]

I have been trying to find out how to set the throttle cut on an ic engine using the Taranis tx. Does anyone know how? There's plenty of info on electric.

[MattyB]

Isn't it exactly the same? The only difference is surely that you are controlling a servo not an ESC, but you still want the throttle to be immovable at the -100 position when cut is activated. The actual difference will be in the throttle curve applied when throttle cut is NOT enabled - min will be somewhere above -100 to stop the engine being accidentally shut down when the throttle stick is fully down.

Ps - The way I would do it would be to have a second mix line activated by a switch of your choice below the main throttle mix line; input will be MAX, value -100,  logic equals Replace.

Edited By MattyB on 23/04/2017 20:12:17

[Denis Watkins]

On other sets, the throttle stop movement is 104% lads, on the stop button, if there is one

.

[Caveman]

Here's how I do it:

On the 'inputs' page, edit the throttle input setting for 'Offset' give a value of 20.

This will cause the servo movement related to the throttle stick to be from -80 to +100.

On the 'Special functions' page I set switch H to override the throttle channel with a value of -100. This closes the throttle to below the set idle and will cut the engine. I use switch H because it's sprung and returns the throttle to 'normal' when released.

You will, of course, have to adjust the throttle servo linkage to operate the throttle from idle to fully open using the -80 to +100 range.

GDB

PS If that's not clear I can add some photo of my screens if necessary, just ask.

Edited By Caveman on 23/04/2017 20:32:30

[Former Member]

[This posting has been removed]

[Andy48]

Posted by Denis Watkins on 23/04/2017 20:16:12:

On other sets, the throttle stop movement is 104% lads, on the stop button, if there is one.

The same can be done with the Taranis.

[Allan Bennett]

Posted by Caveman on 23/04/2017 20:31:17:

Here's how I do it:. . . . I use switch H because it's sprung and returns the throttle to 'normal' when released. . . .

If you use a spring-loaded switch with an electric model it won't disable the motor, for it will be live again as soon as you release the switch.

Personally I don't like it with glow either, for if you're trying to cut the engine while landing, you have to hold the switch until you're sure the engine has cut, and that's an unnecessary distraction for me.

[Frank Skilbeck]

Posted by Allan Bennett on 25/04/2017 21:01:53:

Posted by Caveman on 23/04/2017 20:31:17:

Here's how I do it:. . . . I use switch H because it's sprung and returns the throttle to 'normal' when released. . . .

If you use a spring-loaded switch with an electric model it won't disable the motor, for it will be live again as soon as you release the switch.

Personally I don't like it with glow either, for if you're trying to cut the engine while landing, you have to hold the switch until you're sure the engine has cut, and that's an unnecessary distraction for me.

You could always make it a toggle switch, push for off and then again for on.

[MattyB]

Posted by Allan Bennett on 25/04/2017 21:01:53:

Posted by Caveman on 23/04/2017 20:31:17:

Here's how I do it:. . . . I use switch H because it's sprung and returns the throttle to 'normal' when released. . . .

If you use a spring-loaded switch with an electric model it won't disable the motor, for it will be live again as soon as you release the switch.

You can just use the "Sticky" switch to create a toggle if you want Allan - long pull above a certain number of seconds to enable, short to disable (or opposite if you prefer).

[Allan Bennett]

Long pull to enable and short to disable (or vice versa) sounds dodgy to me; Pull once to enable then again to disable sounds more practical. But why bother when you can use a real toggle switch?

[Bob Cotsford]

because real toggle switches can get knocked 'on' whereas a sprung bias switch will always be in a known position. Long pull prevents accidental taps switching on the motor unintentionally ie it has to be a deliberate action.

[MattyB]

If you prefer a toggle switch but like the "unknockability" of a sprung bias switch I designed these unknockable safety switches (patent pending... ). They use a logic switch cascade to require the user to follow a sequence of moves that include a change of direction within a time period:

[Allan Bennett]

I like that unknockable safety switch, but I still prefer my knockable toggle!

[Chris Bott - Moderator]

I prefer what used to be called a sticky throttle cut. A toggle switch programmed so that when switched to "cut", it instantly cuts the motor. But when switched to "arm" it won't arm unless/until Thr is at -100.

I also set it up so that if the switch gets knocked as I put the Tx down, it knocks it to the cut position.

[MattyB]

Posted by Chris Bott - Moderator on 26/04/2017 21:42:11:

I prefer what used to be called a sticky throttle cut. A toggle switch programmed so that when switched to "cut", it instantly cuts the motor. But when switched to "arm" it won't arm unless/until Thr is at -100.

Yep, that is the default option I use on all but one of my electric models; works great and is very safe. I have actually layered the three position unknockable switch as a pre-arm on top of a sticky throttle cut on my Miss Wind, purely because after installing the battery and making the model "live" you then have to screw on the hatch with a tiny screw only mm behind the prop arc. What a great bit of design! I'm sure the sticky cut on it's own would be enough really, but that additional pre-arm gives some extra piece of mind.

Edited By MattyB on 27/04/2017 00:01:50