john stones 1 - Moderator Posted December 3, 2016 Author Share Posted December 3, 2016 It's an information/bump post to show people where to sign up and what they'd be signing up to, cheating's not allowed unless you get away with it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanN Posted December 3, 2016 Share Posted December 3, 2016 All in a good cause - the more the merrier! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted December 3, 2016 Share Posted December 3, 2016 Ready with the material list. I have created a shopping list assuming you do not have anything in stock yet. The lot amounts to GBP 55 using balsacabins prices. If it is not your first build you will have som ply etc, but close to 50 GBP you will end up I think. I have uploaded the excel sheet to my dropbox, and if I have understood you you set a folder readable for all you can download the file here: **LINK**. Please let me know if I have made any mistakes. Lucas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 It's quite close to the start date, yet there is not much info currently on the forum. Maybe this thread needs to come alive again and it might encourage a few more participants. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted December 30, 2016 Author Share Posted December 30, 2016 Yep soon be starting mine..Jan 3rd for me John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted January 1, 2017 Share Posted January 1, 2017 Have started. Well, in my head at least. Changes for the wings are thought trough and drawn. See the "Gentle Curves" build blog. Anyone who wants to do the same is welcome to get a PDF copy of the drawing. Balsa and Aluminium strip has been purchased. The pilot, ESC and the motor are on their way from Hong Kong. Tonight will be the real start with "kit making". Most likely some formers or maybe a rib template. Lucas Edited By Lucas Hofman on 01/01/2017 17:06:24 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 For those that wonder how the Skywriter looks with a 14% NACA profile: This is the airfoil Peter Miller uses on most of his designs (NACA-3414). I was very pleased with how it behaves on the Ballerina. One has to work hard to get a decent spin, it is nearly impossible to stall, which make the model very forgiving to low level mistakes.. Regards, Lucas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 I think I found a mistake in the plan. Look at this: The grain in the core is not drawn in spanwise directions. Beside it being inconvinient to get this from normal sized balsa stock the grain should - I think - run spanwise (vertical). Together with the ribs that have the grain horizontal one then gets a fin that is strong in both directions. Any other opinions here? Lucas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 10, 2017 Author Share Posted January 10, 2017 Yep i agree. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stumps Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 I've copied a photo over form Lindsay's build thread ~ Plan shows the grain going the wrong way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 Packed up the motor I intend to use (a 3542) an was surprised how small it is when placed on the drawing. It looks like the firewall can move forward 2 cm, which will - when the hatch is also extended forward - ease shifting the battery. I will try to make a drawing/take some pictures tonight. Lucas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 A small error in the RCM&E drawing, and probably in all kits too: The doublers for the inside of the fuselage should have been drawn 3mm longer. So if you have not cut them yet make them a little longer, then you do not have to put in filling pieces. The doubler takes much of the undercarriage and lower wing loads and needs to be able to transfer those to F3. So they need to be in contact with each other. I will make two 6x3mm light ply or hardwood bits and glue these between the doubler and F3 . Lucas. Edited By Lucas Hofman on 27/01/2017 18:41:52 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Bradley Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 I did not find any problem with the liteply doubler in my kit but I have told Slec about the plan errors resulting in their incorrect cutting of the 3mm balsa sheet (doubler) on the outside of the fuselage side and parts F2H/F3H and F4A and they have now corrected them. There seem to be so many errors cropping up that I am losing heart with the build but, I suppose, I cannot give up now - just hope that everything has been corrected. Derek. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Derek, We had quite a few with the Ballerina too. With regard to the doubler being 3 mm short this is a none issue - I solved it by glueing a 3x3mm spruce bit between the doubler and F3. Lucas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Barlow Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 Derek, don't get too disheartened with errors on the drawings. Checking and problem solving when building from plans are skills that develop with experience and will serve you well in your next build. I don't usually bother with wood packs and tend to pick up on discrepancies when marking out the wood for cutting. I also make notes of any changes on the drawings in case I use it for repairs of to build another model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Bradley Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 Thanks, Chris, but I have to admit that I am only a 'casual' builder and a 'very casual' flyer and too far past the age of retirement to even think about the next build. I started my modelling with diesel powered control line in the 1950's but never really found the time to seriously progress to RC until more recently, but have never lost my interest in RC aircraft (and boats) and I really build now entirely for my own enjoyment. Derek. PS. Apologies if I have taken up space unnecessarily on this thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 1, 2017 Author Share Posted February 1, 2017 Take all the space you like Derek, post a few pictures if you've got em John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Bradley Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 Thanks, John but, for some reason and no matter what I try, I am unable to copy any photos onto the blog. I can't find any advice on the website and wonder if anyone can help me please - never had this problem in the past. Derek. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 1, 2017 Author Share Posted February 1, 2017 Read this Derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Bradley Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 Many thanks, John. The only bit of, possibly, useless information I can give at the moment is regarding motor mounting. I intend fitting the firewall square (no offset) in the fuselage, then mark F2 exactly in the centre line of the prop driver and then calculate and mark off up and to port the amount of offset to bring the motor correctly in line with the centre of the aperture in the cowl. If the motor is mounted as shown instead of an X mount you can put washers under the top and port legs to easily get and/or adjust the 2 degrees down and starboard offset. I hope this makes sense - it's easier to do than explain. Derek. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 That will work Derek. With my motor the offset was 1.9mm to the left and up. The only disadvantage is that the bolts are not perpendicular to the firewall, which sometimes make them snag in the blind nuts. If you can pull the blind nuts in using the bolts in the correct angle (so with the motor mount and the correct number of washers) you can avoid this too. Happy building, Lucas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Bradley Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 Thanks, Lucas. I think that probably the best way would be to use the motor mount with one or two washers under the top and port side arms and then use the bolts to pull the blind nuts partially into place. Then check that the offset is correct and that the prop driver is exiting in the right place, if not, adjust the washers and keep checking until you have got it right and then tighten up the bolts completely to pull the blind nuts into their final position. It may be advantageous to have some 3mm balsa sheet behind the firewall for the blind nut prongs to sink into. One advantage of using this method to fit the motor mount as opposed to the X configuration is that you only have to do the adjustments to the top and one side arm to obtain the offside whereas with the X you have to fiddle with three arms - two upper and one lower. Derek. PS. I calculated my motor mount offset the same as yours (+/- the odd fraction of a mm) so I must be doing something right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 That is a good method, Do not forget to put a little oil/vaseline on the bolts. Some glue will find its way into the thread which make removal difficult. (ask me how I know...) By the way, balsa splits very easily. I use 3mm light ply. soft enough you can easily pull the prongs in and the different layers prevent splitting. Actually on both my Ballerina and Skywriter the whole firewal is 6mm light ply. With the small motors we use that is strong enough. Lucas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Ballinger Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 Hi all, I'm just returning to the hobby after a 40 year gap and belatedly have started following your skywriter builds. Finding them very interesting so pleas keep on blogging. Having rescued some of my original models from the loft I done some refurb and have been getting some of my flying skills back up to scratch over the winter. I am itching to start building again and was trying to choose between a slec funfly and the skywriter. Since I have always fancied a biplane the skywriter has won the day. Not so much joining the mass build as gleaning everything I can from what you are all doing. So having made the decision I guess I'd better get the plans/parts on order. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 Hi Tim Start a blog when you're ready ? plenty of room left here. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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