Gary Manuel Posted February 9, 2017 Author Share Posted February 9, 2017 Posted by Rich2 on 09/02/2017 11:31:18: Does that include the rudder and spinner? You've got me thinking now. I'll measure it later today. Edit - 97 inches rudder to spinner. Specs say 88 inches, which must exclude the rudder. Edited By Gary Manuel on 09/02/2017 11:40:54 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 I thought it might be longer as my Sbach is 105". And I think I can just get it in the car without removing anything. You did well getting that in an A1 It is lovely size model, but storage is an issue! Only room for one for me Edited By Rich2 on 09/02/2017 12:30:47 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iqon Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 Posted by Gary Manuel on 09/02/2017 11:32:36: Posted by Rich2 on 09/02/2017 11:31:18: Does that include the rudder and spinner? You've got me thinking now. I'll measure it later today. Edit - 97 inches rudder to spinner. Specs say 88 inches, which must exclude the rudder. Edited By Gary Manuel on 09/02/2017 11:40:54 You will have to let me know when you want it picking up Gary, if it wont fit in....... there is always a plan B.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted February 9, 2017 Author Share Posted February 9, 2017 Posted by iqon on 09/02/2017 15:24:41: You will have to let me know when you want it picking up Gary, if it wont fit in....... there is always a plan B.... No - it fits. I tried it. Good job it's not an inch longer though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted February 16, 2017 Author Share Posted February 16, 2017 Had a bit of time, so I've finished the exhaust mounting and cowl cutting. Cardboard templates taped to fuselage side to mark the exhaust pipe positions. .... and the choke operating rod. ..... and the hole for accessing the needles. Exhaust pipes twisted so that the ends are not in the way, allowing cowl to be put back on and marked through the templates. I'm having second thoughts about the hole for the needles...... ...... it's not in an ideal place. I think I'll remove the cowl if I need to adjust the needles at any time. I'm not a "needle twiddler". Cowl ready for cutting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Absolutely typical of the man...it's start out as a blog n ends up as a cereal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted February 16, 2017 Author Share Posted February 16, 2017 This diaphragm pressure nipple needs to be .... .... routed to somewhere that isn't exposed to variable air pressure as found inside the cowl. This will do nicely. Exhaust manifold secured using NordLoc washers. Exhaust pipes connected to the headers. Fuel overflow secured and routed out of the bottom of the plane. Choke rod. Finished cowl. 25mm grommets used for exhaust pipe and 20mm grommet used for choke rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Very tidy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Very tidy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted February 16, 2017 Author Share Posted February 16, 2017 Might not be so tidy if the grommets catch on fire I'll have to keep my eye on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Gromit has already gone up in flames once Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted February 17, 2017 Author Share Posted February 17, 2017 Maybe I should spread a bit of cheese around the edge of the grommets to give me early smell warning of them getting hot. I do like a bit of Gorgonzola. I'm going to test a grommet to see if they are heat / flame proof - steady on boy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iqon Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 What !!! no grommet around the fuel pipe..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted February 17, 2017 Author Share Posted February 17, 2017 Posted by iqon on 17/02/2017 10:03:04: What !!! no grommet around the fuel pipe..... No, but it's glued. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Nice job Gary, that's much easier with a two piece cowl I would have thought the grommets would melt but you never know! I suppose the prop wash may keep the temps down. Edited By Rich2 on 17/02/2017 16:11:45 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted February 17, 2017 Author Share Posted February 17, 2017 Yes Rich - 2 piece cowl. I'm still thinking what type of screws / bolts to use for fixing the 2 halves together. The supplied canopy screws are not really up to the job. I'm going to give a grommet the "soldering iron test" and maybe even the "blowtorch" test before I try starting the engine. May need to find some silicone grommets? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iqon Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Why no air out hole........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 I'm using these **LINK** M3, and captive T nuts and small rubber washers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Looks neat, but i would prefer bigger holes myself, it'll vibrate a bit as they do, and it might set stress fractures off ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 I'll be using quite a few of them. It will also be reinforced where the bolts are. And I use bigger ones to fix the cowl to the fuselage. You might be right.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted February 17, 2017 Author Share Posted February 17, 2017 Posted by john stones 1 on 17/02/2017 16:20:56: Looks neat, but i would prefer bigger holes myself, it'll vibrate a bit as they do, and it might set stress fractures off ? I agree - I might make them bigger. Play it by ear till I've got engine running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted February 17, 2017 Author Share Posted February 17, 2017 Posted by Rich2 on 17/02/2017 16:19:57: I'm using these **LINK** M3, and captive T nuts and small rubber washers. They're the sort of thing I had in mind. Where did you source your T nuts and washers? Edit - I found and ordered some from ebay. Edited By Gary Manuel on 17/02/2017 17:02:12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted February 17, 2017 Author Share Posted February 17, 2017 Posted by Rich2 on 17/02/2017 16:24:27: I'll be using quite a few of them. It will also be reinforced where the bolts are. And I use bigger ones to fix the cowl to the fuselage. You might be right.. I was thinking 10 to 12 down each side. Cowl to Fus is already sorted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted February 17, 2017 Author Share Posted February 17, 2017 Posted by iqon on 17/02/2017 16:17:43: Why no air out hole........ Because it's got a proper tunnel for the silencers. That's where I want as much air as possible to go. I've also put a lip on the leading edge of the tunnel outlet to help "suck" air through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted February 19, 2017 Author Share Posted February 19, 2017 I've had a read-up about grommet material. Most of them (including mine) are made from PVC, which starts to decompose at 140C and melt at 160C. Some are natural rubber which is only good for up to about 100C. Not much use if it comes into contact with a hot exhaust pipe then. The rubber strip used at the bottom of Page 1 of Adrian Smith's thread HERE, got me thinking about using using something similar, but I think that will have the same temperature issues. I've found THIS stuff, which is made from Platinum cured Silicone. It should be good for up to 230C - 250C. It will also allow me to cut the holes to any shape / size I want. The 25mm grommets I've used at the moment only have about 3mm clearance all round. I'd like double or treble that to allow for vibration and expansion. Edit - here's a LINK to Silex Website Edited By Gary Manuel on 19/02/2017 15:35:06 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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