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DB Cirrus Moth build


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You are right Percy, I just set it up for max movement without fouling the fuz sides, with 100% on the servo travel at the moment.

It was more of a test for me to remember how to do the You Tube thing ... laugh

I have also decided to use a snake on the Elevator, but I've had a idea re the pull pull wires. Watch this space. !!

It should work and look the part to.

D.D.

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Last job for this evening then, was to make an elevator horn and fit the snake.

I just copied one of the aileron horns and made it out of the 1.5mm ply bell crank plate, as I wont be using them.

I taped all the surfaces together and pinned them on the fuz to get it all lined up. Then I marked the exit hole. Drilled it out with a 4mm drill bit at the right angle and glued it in. All I have to do now is brace it all up,

D.D.

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Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 05/03/2017 21:02:19

Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 05/03/2017 21:03:09

Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 05/03/2017 21:09:46

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I don't think that rudder movement is necessarily too much. Obviously that's something you'll find out later but I was surprised how much movement I needed on the Tiggie so you may be pleasantly surprised. So ... no closed loop for the elevators?

btw your other pictures make your workshop look very tidy. I'm very pleased to see that your last one tonight reveals a refreshing jumble almost as chaotic as mine yes

Geoff

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Geoff ....You cheeky monkey......laughwink You are awful.......but I like you !!

I had to chuck everything back in there so we could eat at the dinner table this evening. It's the only time we all get together, as I work shifts at the college.

It's driving me mad having to wait to get my roof done, I have a dehumidifier in there now as well. LOL

I like to use the rudder when I fly, some one told me once " It's only for taking off" surprise

But I always set servos with 100% travel if I can, then adjust if necessary.

D.D.

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Having my new roof on Thursday Chaps. I will then be able to air the work shop out and make a start on the wings.

Still waiting on a speedo from 4Max at the moment.

Next job is the rear decking on the fuz, got that rolled up at the minute to try and aid fitting, as it's a bit of a tight curl at the back end.

Damp atmosphere is helping there . frown

D.D.

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Hi Geoff,

No, it will never fly.....laugh

12 Degrees as we speak mate....Lovin it. Can't wait till I can get back in the work shop, got all my gear all round the house at the minute. I have a very tolerant Missus, bless her... one of my bikes is actually in the living room LOL, so i can get to work on it in a bit..

I am going to have a good clear out as well, and a re organise.

D.D.

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I have a tolerant wife, too. Well as long as I fit a new cassette and chain to her bike although it looks like she'll be using the old ones on her 100km Audax ride on Saturday. I've built bikes, trikes and tandems in the lounge before now

Geoff

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Hi. DD, the first and last time I used a snake on the elevator nearly ended in a bad crash. Took all usual precautions like securing the outer along it length etc, but due to the distance from fus. exit to the elevator horn being quite a distance, it ended up with some slop. When attempting to land found. I did not have enough movement to make a normal landing, so a club expert had to bring it in very fast indeed. Luckily it was a concrete strip and no damage to the model, but quite embarrassing for me. Cheers

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I had to do a bit, so I added the rear deck...

This fitted where it touched, but there was no choice as it had to follow the stringers...I almost cut another one but I think I got away with it by adding some cross grain 1/8th balsa strips next to the formers for strength.

I ran some Aliphatic into the joints as a gap filler.

I also planed the bottom of the tail end flat and level.

D.D.

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Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 11/03/2017 15:26:48

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A bit more done, I was a bit concerned that the cockpit edges were a bit vulnerable, so I padded them out with some balsa, again cross grain to help it bend around the contours.

I also added a hint of frame work on the inside and experimented with the cockpit surround, orange is fuel tube and the black is rubber cable insulation. Both are split down the middle, easily done by inserting a rod and slicing against it. I need to find some better pics of interiors so i can see the seats etc...

It'll be what is known as stand off scale...the further the better, before you lot say it, i'll mention no names....you know who you are......cheekywinklaugh

D.D.

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Good idea to strengthen the cockpit edges with cross grain balsa. That thin ply, unsupported is quite vulnerable and liable to get broken as I found to my cost on the Tiggie which was hanging around as I had it given for a few years before I got round to finishing it.

Someone on here suggested electrical rubber grommet for the cockpit edging on my Ballerina. It's already split along its length and worked really well. You can buy it in lengths to be cut to size to suit the circumference of a cable access hole or, in our case, a cockpit edge.

I don't think this will be as much stand off a long way scale as the Mew Gull I'm finally moving on. It was supposed to be a quick build to be finished by Christmas before I started the 'real' winter build - a DB Cirrus Moth Your Cirrus looks pretty good on my vdu. I just hope mine turns out as well.

Geoff

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