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DB Cirrus Moth build


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I second Percy's comment. The easy and quick interplane strut fixing system is what makes the DB Moth biplanes an everyday model to fly unlike other biplanes I own (and rarely fly!).

Looking very good DD. Your rapid and immaculate building puts me to shame.

Geoff

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Hi Percy, I have built the DB Baby Ace, which I know is a mono plane, but the set up is the similar on that, except it has the struts from the fuz to the wing, I also added some interplane struts, and just left the extra split pins dangling on the wing till I glued them in.

But It's nice to know you've got my back Buddy.. Two heads are better than one. thumbs up

Just for you, last night I got the split pin bearers sorted and in the wings. All except the ones that sit on the bottom wing next to the T/E, the reason being I had to cut the ailerons out first and add the T/E they sit on.

So today I cut the ailerons free and sorted the hinges and shaped the L/E's, and put the final pins in.

Oh and I put blocks in to take the Horns.

The next job is to join the wings.

D.D.img_20170414_145538.jpg

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I can remove the interplane struts on my Tiggie. I didn't have the drawings (or instructions) as I got the model given me part completed so I did things slightly differently. At the bottom of the struts I made and fitted a hook that's almost180 degrees round. The only way the hook can be engaged or removed is by laying the strut almost flat along the wing so it's quite secure. The top is held in place as DB suggest though I use a 14g (2mm) plain gauge stainless bike spoke.

I don't like the idea of having the struts permanently swinging around attached to the lower wing.

Geoff

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So at last, both wings are joined and have their fixing points sorted.

To get the bottom wing bolt holes lined up I screwed in some metal machine bolt from the back of the captive nut and then, with the wing in position, I pushed down onto the bolts to make a mark. I then drilled the wing on the marks and it was spot on.

While the wing was fixed I took the opportunity to mark the front of the wing for the dowels that hold the front and pass through the former. I drilled a pilot hole and then a 6mm hole by hand, making sure the drill bit passed adjacent to the U/C bearer, as the dowels will be glued to this and butt up to the Dihedral brace. i also fitted some additional balsa to beef it all up.

I also added the U/C wire fixings to the ply bearer, so she could sit on her wheels.

Everything lines up nicely and the dihedral, 1.25 " under each tip rib ,is spot on too.

Next up is a bit of covering, after a bit of final sanding and tweeking.

D.D.img_20170416_154843.jpg

img_20170416_160352.jpg

img_20170416_160408.jpg

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The Ultimate would be to have a set of those little pins in your tool box for all sizes of captive nut, but now I have run out of zipper on my anorak. However that would be an evening well spent I think, sat in Dibley Towers, a flask, a sandwich box and a pencil sharpener.................Cosmic........wink

Yes, I am very happy with the results of my labours, and You are quite right about the pilot, he is the correct scale but the floor I put in is too high. He is also German and won't be flying the Moth.

I have both models well on the way now, it is quite refreshing to switch between different models, keeps it all..............well.....................er.................fresh !!

D.D.

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Just a few photos to show the wing fixings and a nice plywood plate i added to take the bolt heads.

D.D.

The plastic wire keepers are designed to swing out of the way to get the U/C out of the way to get the wing in and out.

img_20170416_191805.jpg

Battery hatch out of the way, so you can see the locating dowels.

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Ply bolt plate.

img_20170416_191842.jpg

Servo tray installed.

img_20170416_192215.jpg

I wonder what these are for ? Cut from 1/16 soft balsa, 96 of the little blighters.

img_20170416_202052.jpg

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