Tony Kenny Posted July 26, 2017 Share Posted July 26, 2017 For building projects, I'm wondering what types of coverings are available and what the pros/cons are in them. The tail parts on the the kit I'm building seem a bit flimsy where they are joined so I'm wondering if a covering rather than just painting could add some strength? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted July 26, 2017 Share Posted July 26, 2017 Really depends on what you are building as the weights of the various coverings vary hugely Tissue, silk, nylon, plastic shrink films, brown paper, fibre glass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broken Prop Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 As Dave says, the range of available coverings is huge. A lot of builders use modern iron-on coverings, but you will need to purchase a covering iron or heat gun in order to use this type of covering. The Solar Film website has lots of information on their products, ranging from lightweight through to fabric types. Their range of Solarlac paints have colours which match the coverings. Oracover (also known as Profilm) is an alternative. This type of covering is generally easy to apply. More traditional coverings include mylar, nylon or tissue and are usually applied with a glue of some kind. They are usually lighter in weight but can be a bit messy to apply and need to be finished with dope for durability. Go to Free Flight Supplies for more information. Fibreglass is a whole world of its own! It imparts amazing strength to an airframe and gives a great base for painting. Often used in scale or larger models. All film coverings are shrunk onto the frame by one way or another and do impart considerable strength to the basic framework. You will find lots of useful info elsewhere on the forum. Good luck with the building. BTW what are you building at the moment? Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 There is a video showing how to use Solarfilm & Solartex done by the inventor of Solarfilm himself. Takes an hour and a half to watch. Then decide what covering suits your size of model best. I don't think the video covers all the latest stuff made for the smallest model though. Edited By kc on 27/07/2017 10:59:27 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Kenny Posted October 19, 2017 Author Share Posted October 19, 2017 Just coming back to this, which I'd actually forgotten I'd posted!... I'm looking at different brands such as oratex, solarfilm, airpsan, monokote... so now I'm a little confused. I see with the more expensive brands, I could easily spend more on covering than i did on the kit - which is a Cloud Models Mosquito, and I'm also reicoverng an old mirage. I'd like something strong that might add strength to the airframe and ideally iron on that I can either airbush afterwards, or add more film for decals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted October 19, 2017 Share Posted October 19, 2017 H.K film is excellent and a good price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Kenny Posted October 19, 2017 Author Share Posted October 19, 2017 wow, yes, a lot cheaper. Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Kenny Posted October 19, 2017 Author Share Posted October 19, 2017 here's another question however, on the Mirage, the fuz is fibreglass, would I just paint that or can coverings stick to fibreglass? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted October 19, 2017 Share Posted October 19, 2017 Posted by Tony Kenny on 19/10/2017 17:49:01: here's another question however, on the Mirage, the fuz is fibreglass, would I just paint that or can coverings stick to fibreglass? Iron on film will stick to fibreglass as long as its been de-greased, but as its non porous you will have issues with ait bubbles - better to paint it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Kenny Posted October 19, 2017 Author Share Posted October 19, 2017 would the same go for vac formed plastic in the kit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denis Watkins Posted October 19, 2017 Share Posted October 19, 2017 Yep, paint plastic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted October 19, 2017 Share Posted October 19, 2017 Don't know a lot about spraying, but on plastics I use an etching primer, never done a f/glass one so no comment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Geezer Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 On the subject of covering film, I am about to re-cover an old J60. What can I use to remove the pigmented residue that's left on the balsa? Also, would I be advised to also prep' with Balasloc before ironing on the new film? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 I would just sand off any remnant of the old colour and I would use Solartex on a Junior 60. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broken Prop Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 for Solartex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatMc Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 Posted by Old Geezer on 20/10/2017 01:42:56: On the subject of covering film, I am about to re-cover an old J60. What can I use to remove the pigmented residue that's left on the balsa? Also, would I be advised to also prep' with Balasloc before ironing on the new film? First choice, sand as David said. Second choice, paint the bare bones with something like "straw" coloured emulsion paint - a sample test pot should be sufficient. This will give the bare airframe an overall balsa colour appearance. Alternately, use a matt acrylic of a lighter shade than the new covering material. Sand lightly any raised grain & cover with Solartex or similar - no need for Balsaloc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Geezer Posted October 21, 2017 Share Posted October 21, 2017 THAT'S what you get here - good advice AND lateral thinking. - Thanks Pat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Geezer Posted October 21, 2017 Share Posted October 21, 2017 Solartex on a J60 is v-e-r-y tempting - but it has to be "Antique", if only in memory of my dear old Radio Queen ( 😢 ) only this time it won't need fuel proofing - I've got an Axi to go on the front - Sorry! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fylingdales Flyer Posted October 22, 2017 Share Posted October 22, 2017 Definitely Solartex for the Junior 60, but preferably the 'vintage' colours or Antique, to give a see through covering with the 'bones' visible. I always give mine a couple of coats of dope as well, to seal the surface and keep it clean. 'Old Geezer', plus one for the Axi on the nose. Mines a 2820/10 and pulls it off the runway in about 10 feet. Graham Edited By BayNavigator on 22/10/2017 18:15:06 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatMc Posted October 22, 2017 Share Posted October 22, 2017 IMO, plain uncoloured Solartex as the base with other coloured 'tex or paint for trim is more authentic & looks better than all "vintage" colours. This is mine ready for it's maiden circa 1986 - Uncoloured Solartex with solid red trim - no paint used. Then pre re-maiden after a refurb & electrocution 4 years ago - Antique blue & solid blue, some solid yellow trim has since been added but again no paint used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onetenor Posted October 22, 2017 Share Posted October 22, 2017 In the same vein I need to repair some rib damage to an old Veron Velox covered in clear doped orange Nylon . Suggestions please for re covering.. I have been quite happy with the nylon which was applied in ,/ 67 or so but needs must now as there wasn't the multiples of choice then as there is now. Edited By onetenor on 22/10/2017 20:24:55 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Kenny Posted October 22, 2017 Author Share Posted October 22, 2017 For the mosquito I'm probably going to go for the HK coverings and paint he plastic fuz, unless I can get some film to stick to the plastic. For the Mirage, I'm going to follow similar lines to its former owner and paint directly onto the balsa. Already picked up some spray cans and I read somewhere that it might be worth 'sealing' the balsa first with PVA. Main thing with this one is just to get the darned thing finally in the air! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onetenor Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 If you spray the plastic fuzz with etch primer the covering will stick fine. For bare balsa use sanding sealer first .Rub down then paint it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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