Glass clothing

[Stevo]

No not Glass Clothing.. but glass cloth...ing!!

What's in common use, and what techniques do you recommend?

I've picked up on... use a diluted solution of epoxy and IPA... as a primer coat. rub down with 600g once cured. Lay glass cloth (25g/sqm) and roller the epoxy on.

I've looked at Bucks Composites but they seem to be readily running out of stock. Not desparate as it will be a little while before it's needed for the Stuka.

[Tim Flyer]

I use West systems epoxy with their Slow hardener. I find the consistency just right. In warm weather I mix smaller amounts and place the mix on a plastic ice block from a cool bag. I use a disposable brushes to apply. I generally lay the cloth and wet over the the cloth rather than wetting the base wood first that makes the epoxy go further for a lighter job. I do not dilute it . If over diluted epoxy can be rubbery and weakened so I don't bother. 

Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 30/07/2017 21:52:26

[cymaz]

I'm glad you brought that up Stevo.

I'm just about to glass cloth 4 engine nacelles on a refurb I'm doing. Doing it only because the solartex is not adhering to the balsa very well. I've got some very light cloth and a bottle of poly-c and would like some advice on how to go about it.

Is the technique the same for laying up glass cloth the same no matter what fixing you use?

[Martin McIntosh]

I have used Multipurpose resin which is suitable for glassing or moulding from ABL (Stevens) of Sandbach for some time now, not their general purpose stuff. I buy 1.5kg at a time. You may wish to order other things from them at the same time since the postage will be the same.

I believe that the West system is also very good.

Great waste of effort priming first, no one does that. Do not attempt to thin it. This serves no purpose and will just make life difficult unless you intend to spray the resin as a fuel proofer and even then use cellulose thinners because it dries out very quickly and will not soften the resin.

Sanding down time can be reduced by 90% using peel ply. There is a video on Danny Fenton`s thread `Don`t just stand there, get one up!` but you would need to trawl through many pages to find it.

[flight1]

For supplies see easy composites ( and also this model shop for a good selection and service, pitty none here)have a large range , just remember when laminating more resin isn't better , just wet the glass cloth you not trying to fill the weave with resin -you are just sticking it to the surface ,a good primer will do that job and be lighter . learn to use a squeegee to get exses resin off

As above no need to prime wood before but you and don't thin the resin no need and causes a multitude of potential problems

Edited By flight1 on 30/07/2017 23:19:13

Edited By flight1 on 30/07/2017 23:22:01

[David Foley]

Have used methonal to thin West System for a number of years now with great results,

The main reason for thinning the resin is to help reduce the amount of resin used as weight

can build up very quickly by using this method.

 As a small minus the resin will go off

faster but you will have plenty of working time. (Mix 50:50)

Edited By David Foley on 31/07/2017 01:14:42

[Ady Hayward]

I get my glass cloth from my LHS and usually use the 18g or 25g per square metre. I seem to differ here in that I use the water based varnish to apply it to both foam and balsa airframes. The system works well and gives a nice surface for paint and above all is easy to apply without much weight gain. I do admit it doesn't add much strength but the airframe should be strong enough anyway, and the resulting surface is scuff resistant. The main benefit in my mind is that there is a reasonable amount of time to apply the glass before the varnish cures so if you are not happy with the fit the cloth can be dampened with the varnish and lifted off and repositioned. It does of course leave a good surface for painting for a glass smooth finish or let the weave show to give the surface a fabric covered look.

Adrian

[Bucksboy]

I've used the Bucks Composites stuff many times, by using the rollers to spread the resin you get a very smooth, even finish. I don't use the peel ply layer either. Roller the first layer on, let it dry, a quick sand over and then another roller layer of resin followed by another quick sand. I use the 25g per square meter cloth too. I think the West system resin is virtually identical so it will work using Bucks Composites 'How To' guide.

I'm nothing to do with Bucks Composites either, just a customer.

[Cuban8]

Hobby KIng 18g cloth with Bob Smith Models finishing epoxy also from HK. I use this guy's technique **LINK**

Very easy with little or no mess and minimal rubbing down.To finish a coat of spray primer filler well rubbed down followed by a suitable primer. With care minimal weight build up can be acheived.

[Stevo]

Wow, my inbox lit up like an xmas tree Thank you everyone.

Thank you to all. Cuban8 - that guy was so laid back on that video I nearly fell asleep! But, useful advice so thank you. As per usual, everyone has their preferred method of working.

The concensus of advice is that do not thin or even prime (a thinned layer of epoxy). Some use rollers, some use brushes, some use CCards.

Lay cloth on and wet with an old credit card or similar... following our laid back friend on the video. I think preparation is the key, it's got to be pretty good under the cloth to start with.

I'll order up some 25g cloth and epoxy today.

[Stevo]

Wow, my inbox lit up like an xmas tree Thank you everyone.

Thank you to all. Cuban8 - that guy was so laid back on that video I nearly fell asleep! But, useful advice so thank you. As per usual, everyone has their preferred method of working.

The concensus of advice is that do not thin or even prime (a thinned layer of epoxy). Some use rollers, some use brushes, some use CCards.

Lay cloth on and wet with an old credit card or similar... following our laid back friend on the video. I think preparation is the key, it's got to be pretty good under the cloth to start with.

I'll order up some 25g cloth and epoxy today.

[Rob Tothill]

I'm just finishing glassing my first model. I got the cloth from East Coast fibreglass supplies and used the 25gm https://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/product/glassfibre-cloth-25g-sq-mtr-1-mtr-wide

I have been using Deluxe Materials finishing epoxy, which has been easy to work with. It seems quite expensive, but I won't have used a whole pack for the entire aircraft, so ?20ish isn't too bad.

I have laid the cloth and squegeed with a credit card, and then sanded lightly before applying a second layer.

I'm rubbish at corners, so if anyone has any tips that would be good!

[Ady Hayward]

Sorry wrong post

Edited By Ady Hayward on 31/07/2017 16:11:06

[Dave Hopkin]

You might want to take a look at Danny Fenton's youtube tutorials on glassing and peel ply

Glassing parts 1 & 2

**LINK**

**LINK**

Peel ply

**LINK**

And I am sure if there any question he can be dragged here to answer them......

[Danny Fenton]

I suppose I should say thanks Dave But you really should warn people that they may well fall asleep during those videos

I have heard that thinning epoxy resin is not advised by any of the major resin makers. I also suggest you research peel ply, this makes glassing so much easier, and you can really get the weight down. It also saves hours of sanding because there is no flow coat to have to sand away!

I have also tried a few cheap cloths and to say they were a disaster is an understatement. The cloth would not lay flat and kept lifting. I am sure there are great suppliers out their, Bucks composites is one I have heard off. But the only one I have used and really like is the stuff that Phil Clark at Fighteraces stocks. It lays perfectly flat with only a small amount of resin, even over severe compound shapes. If you are trying to glass a wing tip and it seems to be lifting try a better cloth

Cheers

Danny

PS there is a much longer video where I glass a 1/6th TN Spitfire fus using 25gsm cloth and peel ply. But you will need matchsticks on your eyelids for that one!

 

Edited By Danny Fenton on 31/07/2017 18:11:07

[TartanMac]

I'm just about to glass my first airframe a Uno Wot. I followed Bob Moore in the U.S when he was making vids on YouTube regularly. He builds Jets and bui!Lt Ali Machinchi a F105 Thunderchief. He used alot of resins in the past and said the best stuff was the Zap finishing resin specifically made for the job. I bought some and it is a thin resin compared to normal epoxy resin glue he also says use a card or plastic spreader. He mentioned it does not fish eye and is easy to work because of the viscosity. Then use a razor blade instead of sandpaper to take the high spots off and scratch up the surface. From then I think it was primer paint then black good very lightly to show up low spots then filler then primer then sealer then colour. I want to glass and paint because covering comes off but also it gets the tiny scratches after a couple of wipe downs and never gets the new shine back with paint just polish it up and you can touch it up also.