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Something that will bounce


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Posted by Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 08/07/2018 10:19:08:

I think those comments are bit unkind Sam. You might not like what Percy is saying but he is sincerely trying to help you and he has a lot experience.

I can understand where you are coming from on this - there is a hard learning curve learning many things in our hobby and you are looking for something that might just make this learning curve a little easier - not because its easier to fly but because the consequences of getting it wrong (which we all do when learning) are bit less severe.

So, my recommendation is similar to an earlier one - get yourself a largish shockie. This time of year you can fly that outdoors - and if it is a bit windy, well that adds to the benefit! That will help your fingers learn the movements, your muscle memory will take over and eventually, as you know, you end up flying the move on instinct without thinking about it - then if it goes wong you correct automatically - without thinking - you have to reach that point. And if it all goes to hell in a handcart then the shockie will indeed just bounce. They are very hard to damage!

But something you really should think about listening to Percy on - make progress slowly, build one step on the next. Don't just "try a move", build up to it through a series of simplier moves. That's how the full size guys do it - and bear in mind if they get wong big style it isn't just the plane that gets damaged!

BEB

BEB you have summed it up but your opening sentence may be right but you need to understand that I intend to beat the 3d barrier, That is my target. Just because someone else cannot do it is no reason to say i should not & that is what got me started in my post. I did not really mean to insult Percy, Although it comes across as that.

My main hobby is sailing . I was probably sailing, & winning schoolboys races, before Percy was flying model planes.

But if someone asks advice about foiling dinghies I do not say " Buy an old gaffer because that is what I have got because I cannot sail a foiling moth" I say " sorry no experience" & leave it to others to reply"

The rest of your post is spot on. Of course I intend to move slowly but some of our older club members have told me " if you are not prepared to take the crashes then it is not for you, Go back to your boat".

Even "simpler "moves need to be learned. But having a good model for it makes a good start. No different to sailing. Hence my asking for opinion.

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I'm 66 Sam., I was winning E boat class OD races before you could pull an halliard I suspect. As your coach used to tell you, play with the bid boys, get hammered, or get better.

But you did do an initial post that you have broke the plane, am not prepared to buy another, and won't build another. And a half kilo foamy is not a substitute. And anchoring the battery is basic.

Take a step back, calm down, don't start with a 25 knot cat, and learn what a pitchpole looks like from the amputation end of the experience.

And Percy is not my mate.

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Posted by Don Fry on 08/07/2018 16:00:55:

I'm 66 Sam., I was winning E boat class OD races before you could pull an halliard I suspect.

I was sailing dinghies about 4-5 years after you were borne !!!!!.

Buy a copy Of Practical Boat Owner - Summer Issue,& read pages 40-43

Shall I go on?

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Posted by Sam Longley on 08/07/2018 19:34:58:
Posted by Don Fry on 08/07/2018 16:00:55:

I'm 66 Sam., I was winning E boat class OD races before you could pull an halliard I suspect.

I was sailing dinghies about 4-5 years after you were borne !!!!!.

Buy a copy Of Practical Boat Owner - Summer Issue,& read pages 40-43

Shall I go on?

So was I. But I've said my piece, I'm out.

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Have a look at Twisted Hobbys models manufactured by RC Factory. Like the Wargo, they are made of EPP which bounces and is easy to repair with Uhu Por. When the foam cracks glue it together and strengthen the area by priming the surface with Uhu Por and stick Blenderm tape at right angles across the crack. It probably won't break again in that area. Fly over grass and you will mostly only have to pay for replacement props (GWS slow fly at £1.25).

I have learnt to fly simple 3D with these models. It is great fun and stress free! Best to start with a 800mm span size. 600mm is very twitchy and 1000mm needs more space and is intimidating when close. Something like the Crack Yak 55 Lite would be a good model to start with - simple to build and flies outside in light winds. **LINK** Buy the servo and power sets too - they suit the models very well and are great value. The manuals are online at Twisted Hobbys. As I recall, the recommend COG in the manual for this model is too far back. You need a neutral trim with very little stick required upright and inverted.

As others have suggested a simulator is very helpful for 3D. I started with Phoenix but I find Realflight is much better for 3D (a couple of years ago a Phoenix update made hovering too easy). Use the biggest 3D models, even though you fly small ones, as they are the easiest to fly and less twitchy. Keep the model very close so you can see it very clearly. Have fun.

If you have an indoor club with a sports hall, the Clik is the model to get.

Have a look at this forum **LINK** Very helpful and friendly with lots of good advice from very good pilots.

Another excellent thread is **LINK**

Good luck.

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For what is worth.

Simulator is the best tool to learn the basic 3d manoeuvres. Stick a few hundred hours on that and your recovery, harrier and hover reflexes will be dialed in. Confidence to chuck a real one around will be there without the nervous feeling and you really cannot be attempting to correct 3d maneuvers without it all being second nature.

If you can't keep it close enough in the sim you need to step back to basic flying skills.

If you really really want to keep going on a real one then buy a cheap foamie.

I like my hobbyking mx2. Linked above. Cheap and capable. Easy to repair. Mine has been patched a few times with pva and glass tissue or even just paper or card. Any of the big foam board types will work too.

What you don't want is a grand of carbon and glass hitting the deck because you've not made second nature the correct rudder corrections for a rolling harrier.

Best of luck.
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Sam

You know, I missed this

"I intend to beat the 3d barrier"

There really isn't a barrier as such.

What there is, is a huge number of maneuvers that fall on a spectrum ranging from easy to mind-bending.

I'd suggest breaking it down to getting each maneuver worked out and dialled before moving on to the next. Start with the easy stuff, obviously.

Just as a starter, a list I've used (not my own creation):

Hover (topside facing)
harrier
knife edge
rolling circle [single roll]
hover (underside facing)
inverted harrier
Torque roll
rolling harrier
switch rolling harriers
snake
death slide
elevator
inverted elevator
flat spin
inverted flat spin
knife edge spin
Aussie Toilet Bowl
Enema, aka Pop Top or Zwimbleturm
Inverted Pop Top, zwimbleturm, enema
positive Knife edge spin (with up elevator)
weeble wobble (aka falling leaf)
Lomcevak (aka crank shaft)
stationary spin
pinwheel spin
rolling loop
rolling figure eight
rolling vertical figure eight
wall
parachute
knife edge wall
the other kind of knife edge wall (two completely different maneuvers)
cascade
rolling cuban eight
knife edge cuban eight
rolling half and reverse half cuban eight
knife edge half and reverse half cuban eight
knife edge loop
 
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Posted by gangster on 09/07/2018 20:48:01:

Sam. Just reading BMFA news. Seen ad for the Ruckus. Would that suit your requirements?

No! because they are not particularly cheap & having had a Riot I doubt would not be that easy to repair. It is too heavy. It is getting away from "cheepo bouncy 3d"

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Posted by Tom Sharp 2 on 09/07/2018 18:57:28:

Must admit I had never heard of IMAC (though I have seen prop hanging) but I see it's all about it in the latest edition of BMFA news.

Just practicing the manouvers can be quite fun. It is better in someways than just flapping around the sky as it imposes a discipline to ones flying & improves stick & flight control. They are easy enough in themselves, but getting them clinically accurate is the difference. At least it does not take weeks to actually pull something off ,(like a 3d trick) to start with. The time is in perfecting it.

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