dirk tinck Posted November 10, 2019 Author Share Posted November 10, 2019 Reinforcing the cover with foam blocks glued on but first put some tape in place to prevent the epoxy sticking to the hatch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted November 10, 2019 Author Share Posted November 10, 2019 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted November 10, 2019 Author Share Posted November 10, 2019 After cutting the opening with a disc grinder i finished both the hatch and the opening the way i did the motor hatch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted November 10, 2019 Author Share Posted November 10, 2019 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted November 10, 2019 Author Share Posted November 10, 2019 After cleaning up the hatches and openings,wing seat formed , rudder seat fitted , basically the fuselage is ready to be prepped for primer.But... I'm taking part in the PSSA 2020 mass build F86 Sabre so, from now on i'm going to split my hobby-time in two as the mass build weekend is in June. No time to waste !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted November 10, 2019 Share Posted November 10, 2019 Great progress again, Dirk. ... and fine you're going to split your hobby time with your Sabre build. Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Jones Posted November 10, 2019 Share Posted November 10, 2019 I have loved watching this Blog , We all have to make the most of are free time so that is fine with me Too. Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted April 21, 2020 Author Share Posted April 21, 2020 Just a little update on when this blog is going to go on. The PSSA sabre mass build ,that came in between the magister build,is now in primer mode . I guess it will take another month to finish her .After that it's full throttle to get the magister in the air ! The sabre has gun ports,a full cockpit,working speed brakes,remouvable canope and last but not least a working ejector seat and parashute ! Stay tuned !! and thanks for visiting ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted July 20, 2020 Author Share Posted July 20, 2020 hi again all !! The PSS sabre is ready , minus the panel lines and fitting the battery. As promised , the magister is already back on the building table ! First thing on the list is finishing the plug for the rudder-elevators. the plugs were primered last april (!)and just needed the panellines to be ingraved.For this job i used my special tool i made for the wing panel lines .I have only one plug for both sides (L and R )as the profile is symetrical. So one plug ,one mould,for the two tail parts. Next job is to paint them after a good sand and prep them for moulding. The opening for the servos is not yet integrated in the plug ,for the simple reason that i need it only on the bottomside ,but the bottomside left is the top side right,so the room for the hatch will be layed-up in the mould. It's new to me too but it will be clear when i get there . That's all for the restart , Stay safe out there ! Greatings , Dirk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted July 20, 2020 Share Posted July 20, 2020 ... just must have been taking some 'speed pills', Dirk. The paint on your Sabre is barely dry and the Fouga is already back on the bench... Did you receive my email with the pics of the turbine exhaust? Cheers & stay safe Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted July 20, 2020 Author Share Posted July 20, 2020 Thanks for the e-mail with the exhaust pictures Chris ! As much as i loved the sabre build, the magister was never out of sight ! Everybody has a favorite plane i guess...Mine is the magister ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted July 20, 2020 Share Posted July 20, 2020 Hi Dirk, Mostly welcome regarding the exhaust pics. Let me know what your dimension is and I 'll do my best for it. Looking at your dedication for the Magister, no doubt it must be your favourite... Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted July 28, 2020 Author Share Posted July 28, 2020 Painted the tail parts after cleaning up the panel lines as the dremel tool leaves a rough surface and it all showes in the finished parts ! Next move is to prepare the parting board. The two parts have to be burried in the brown plate ,just up to their centerline. Then the moulding can start all over again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted July 28, 2020 Author Share Posted July 28, 2020 first task was to glue the parting board on a piece of foam to get some space under it (minimum half the thickness of the rudder ) Then cutted the openings for the parts, plus one mm. Made some supports for the parts from scrap foam , to glue under the parts so that they ''float'' in the openings with the upper side of the parting board in line with the centerline of the parts. To make the mould stiffer i placed pieces of parting board arround the parts. Next thing to do is fill all the gaps with plasticine to avoid the resin leaking through and to become sharp edges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Cooke Posted July 29, 2020 Share Posted July 29, 2020 Hi Dirk great work as always! What material do you use for your parting board and box walls? It looks like ply but it has a glossy laminated surface!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted July 30, 2020 Author Share Posted July 30, 2020 Hi Phil ! Sorry for the late reply but i just got back from the slope i n Calais About your question :Yes it is plywood for outdoor use and it is laminated on both sides with a waterproof layer. In the thicker version ,like 18mm is used for concrete castings.It's relativ cheap too ,like 20€ for a 4mm thick plate 1.22M by 2.44M. A great benefit is that epoxy does NOT stick to it , exept when you sand it rough. Are you planning to mould something ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reuben Saliba Posted July 30, 2020 Share Posted July 30, 2020 Hi Dirk, is there a brand name on it? Trying to see if it is available locally. Thanks Reuben Edited By Reuben Saliba on 30/07/2020 06:59:55 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted July 30, 2020 Author Share Posted July 30, 2020 Hi Reuben ,it's called betonplex here, i find it at any DIYstore but can't find a brand on it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Van Raemdonck Posted July 30, 2020 Share Posted July 30, 2020 Try searching concrete multiplex or filmfaced multiplex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted July 30, 2020 Author Share Posted July 30, 2020 Also try phenolic plywood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reuben Saliba Posted July 30, 2020 Share Posted July 30, 2020 Thanks for your replies. Much appreciated ! Reuben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted July 31, 2020 Author Share Posted July 31, 2020 your welcome Reuben ! To get the two moulds lined up (after moulding)to eachother you need a system . Normally i take care of this when the two moulds are made ,but i'm going to try a methode a lot of modellers use : with marbels. In my case metal balls from a car drive shaft. I drilled holes on the corners of the parting board so that the metal balls fit in just upto their center. This is going to leave half a sphere in the top mould. These spheres are going to be filled when making the bottom mould leaving half balls on it, who will fit perfect in the spheres from the top mould. additional bolts will keep the moulds together . Next thing to do is fill the gaps between plug and parting board with plasticine.After that it's polishing , waxing and we're ready to laminate ! x Thanks for visiting and stay tuned ! Everything will be clear in the next steps ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reuben Saliba Posted July 31, 2020 Share Posted July 31, 2020 Dirk I normally use those stick on silicone round tabs. The ones they put under glass. Works well for me. They are usually a throw away after use thing. Reuben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted July 31, 2020 Author Share Posted July 31, 2020 I know they exist Reuben, i just haven't seen them.Only smaller versions they use on furniture doors. I will try them when i find them ,less work ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted August 14, 2020 Author Share Posted August 14, 2020 We now have themperatures round 32 deg. so its impossible to work with epoxy the last couple of day's. This work is from just before the heatwave : The rudder together with the partingboard were waxed 6 times and treated with pva. After drying half an hour ,i painted the combo with the black moulding resin instead of gel coat.(don't like gel coat). ,The glass together with clear resin has to be applyed before this dry's out ,to get good bonding. I used 1 layer of 50grms , 1 layer of 100 grms and 6 layers of 200 grms. Sharp corners like leading edge and sides were first filled with a mix of resin and cotton flakes ,to make it thicker like nutella choco paste.This makes the laminating of glass cloth easyer The edges were already cleaned up in the last photo. This all dryed very quick in 25+ themperatures so i could remove ''the box'' from the first mould, the next day. After removing the plasticine rests , the foam supporting blocks and the protec tive blue tape , i cleaned up the new mould . The combo is upside -down now and the black part is the new mould x With everything clean , you can see the half spheres ,formed with the metal balls. Time to wax and start over for the opposite mould !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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