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Fouga magister 1/4.5 moulded from scratch


dirk tinck

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Time to clean up the edges and remove the ply base !

Also removed the wooden wedge , remember ??

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All went OK so i could move on with the two bottom moulds. From a piece of scrap ply i made up two little parting pieces to split the two moulds.

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Secured them with foam blocks on the backside.

I had a little problem with a marbel that jumped out of its opening ,brushing on the black resin. This made the resin creep through the marbel and its opening : Marbel stuck !! Trying to remove it damaged the mould in that area .I restored it with a little resin dripped around the marbel. When this is cured and cleaned up , this side is ready to wax ,pva ,and glass !!

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That'a all for today ! Thanks for watching and stay safe ! Dirkmoon

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Hi all !

After the waxing (5x) and a coat of pva from yesterday , it's time for the moulding resin on the first bottom half .

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This supposed to be tacky in 30 minutes but in fact it takes more than an hour surprise. I think the activator has lost a part of its value ?

After a break , i started with the glass and epoxy : Same drill ne layer 50gr , one layer 100gr , and six layers of 200 gr.

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I hope that this is all cured by the time i get back here tomorrow. Themperatures drop to 10deg inside hereno.

Fingers crossed and goodnight !moon

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Hi all !

The epoxy cured overnight but still got elastic when cutted with the disc grinder , due to the heat generated .I cleaned up only the edges wich i needed for the next step :The 4th and last part of the canope mould. After the waxing and the pva coat , i brushed on the black resin , and when it got tacky i started with the usual coats of glass and epoxy. This completes the forming of the canope mould. When everything is cured well , i'll clean everything up and place the connecting bolts....to remove them all and open the mould.

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If all goes well ,i'll be making a canope next days ! that will be the third usable part in this build (after the rudders and tail cone )

I hope Andy's 3D printed thrust pipe gets here soon so i can mould that too. If not , i'll prepare the fuselage to copy it .

Stay tuned !

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Thanks Alan !

After two days curing i could finally clean all the edges and open the 4-piece mould .Due to the wax and pva the parts lifted whitout much wringing.smile dThe plug survived ,always a plus !!yes

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You can clearly see the pva film still sticking to the mould (front corner )

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After a good clean up with water , to wash away the pva , the waxing can start again.sad

After the wax , a coat of pva and paint , the two small pieces are going to be bolted to their corresponding half .

this way i will be making two canope halfs . Then glue them together to a one piece canope.

Stay tuned and thanks for watching !wink

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Hi all !

I'm still waiting for the thrust pipe-plug Andy 3D-printed for me. In the mean time i waxed the moulds for the canope five timescrook! After that they've got a coat of pva and where painted on the inside with IMC (In Mould Coating). The time left this evening was used to cut the glass cloth pieces to form the actual canope. I'm going for 50gr ,100gr ,and 200gr as there is no stress on this part.

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After bolting upper and bottom pieces together , to form a left and right mould , i finally can make another usable part !

That's for tomorrow ! Stay safe !

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Hi again ! Burning some midnight oil !!

I left the heater on at 20° overnight to get the paint to dry proprly. The tech chart says 24 h drying at 20° before putting on the next layer.

First i bolted the corresponding parts together to become a left and right mold half.

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To become seamless parts , i covered the gap ( if there is any)between the parts with thickened resin , applyd with a candy bag with the tip cut off.

next is 50 gr. glass cloth , 100gr, and last 200 gr. this should be enough for a canope once the windows are glued in.

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Good evening all!

Everything cured well overnight at 20° ,so i carefully trimmed the overhanging cloth with a sharp blade. The pva and wax is working so well that the canope is easy pushed away from the mould so extra care is needed here !!

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Then bolted both L and R mould together.

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I prepared some ribbons of cloth to laminate over the seam , together with 30gr resin . Half of the resin was thickened with cotton flakes and put in a candy bag.

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Covered the seam with the thickened resin. I think i'm going to skip this step next pull to avoid to much space between the canope frame and the windows.

Next i laminated the ribbons over the seam. First 1 inch , then 2 inches wide

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That's it !

When fully cured , i can trim the overhang and open the moulds ! Hopefully tomorrowwink

Thanks for watching !

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Well...I couldn't wait to get the canope ouy until the epoxy was fully cured. Afterall it's sunday and nothing else to do !

I trimmed the excess cloth from the connecting ribbons and removed the bolts , only the ones from the base (bottom moulds) and removed the base , and later split both upper moulds. They all lifted with ease.20201220_122649.jpg

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Hi gents ,and ladies ?

Wonndering all day what part of the magister build to tackle next ,i saw a courier stop at my house with a rather big parcell...Could it be from the UK ? Yes !!

The 3D printed thrust pipe has arrived ! Thanks Andy Meade for this early Christmas present ! What a beatyfull print it is !!

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Checking the various sizes ,all seems correct !! Good job !

Couldn't wait to get sanding the little print lines away after spraying on sanding guide. It's a really tough material and sanding isn't easy...

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After a few evenings it will be ready for primer and paint to become a shiny surface. Then the moulding can start.

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Hello all !

Not much to show tonight , other than the plug is sanded entirely and prepped for primer. The time left was used to make the parting boards from laminated ply (with shiny surface )

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the system to make the thrust tube is a lot different than the other parts i've made so far. First of all , this time i need the shiny surface on the inside.( To not disturb the airflow from the fan )

So , when i make a mould from this plug , and make a new tube in this mould , the shiny surface would be on the outside : Not good !!

The solution is to make a mould of the mould. In this second copy , i can make an exact copy of the original plug . Hard to follow isn't it ? It will become clear in the next posts ...I thinkembarrassed

When you think it through ,You could ask me :Why not make the tube directly on the plug ?? That's easy to answer :That would only work for one tube ! For a second one , i would have to rebuild the parting boards over and over . To much work !

It's hard to explain ,especially for me , due to the language !sad

Stay with me ! This is getting seriuos !wink

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