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lndoor model anybody?


SIMON CRAGG
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I'm assembling one of these. Called a Sakura, got it off EBay for about £20. Complete kit, inc hardware, all nice, the kit supplied is the mk3 version of the kit, instructions, in colour, in proper English, are the mk 1 instructions. That said, it goes together well, just think it through. Not flown yet, but looks like it will be fine. Fully aerobatic, about 50 g AUW, 150, 180 2s battery, nothing too expensive.

I find these things very fiddly, it's been driving me mad 😡, but I'm used to a servo weighing more than the whole thing.

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Posted by trebor on 17/12/2018 18:53:47:

I,ve just been looking at one of these mini yaks **LINK**

They do a nice Biplane version, does anyone know how slow these will fly ?

I have the Twisted Hobbies 24" Mini Edge. It is very twitchy and hard to fly compared with the 32" superlite models like the Clik R2 or Crack Laser Pro. I have a Crack Laser Pro and it flies very well. When you have mastered the knack it hovers very steadily (I cannot keep the 24" Edge in a hover). The Clik R2 has a low wing loading and flies very well indoors and is an excellent model. The superlite models have a lot of carbon rod bracing which makes them stiff. The Mini Edge has no bracing and the whole tail twists when full elevator is applied and requires aileron correction. Too much for me to cope with at the same time!

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Posted by trebor on 18/12/2018 18:24:00:

Thanks John I will have a look at the Clik r2, are they EPP or Depron ?

Ps, The Gym hall I go to is only 3 Badminton courts big so thats why I looked at the smallest.

Edited By trebor on 18/12/2018 18:32:36

The Clik is EPP and takes crashes well. Repair cracks in the foam with Uhu Por and tape across the break with 1/2" Blenderm tape and it is unlikely to tear in that spot again. EPP needs to be primed with a thin tack coat of Uhu Por to get Blenderm to stick permanently.

The Clik is the best indoor aerobatic and 3D model for small spaces. Not a small space but nice and slow flying **LINK**

Flat rudder turns are best for small gyms as they keep the speed down and can be very tight.

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Some people build large carrying boxes (from corrugated signboard plastic sheet) to keep them safe. I throw mine in the back of the car. When it is breezy it is a good idea to hold them by the motor/prop and allow them to weather cock into the wind/gusts. I haven't had any transport damage doing this for about three years now.

It is a good idea to store them hanging from the prop so as not to distort the foam by lying to one side (the wings/ailerons are vulnerable to this.

The foam seems so thin and floppy on these models but they are remarkably tough. After a few months of regular use they tend to get a bit battered looking (especially around the nose) and put on a few grams of weight with glue and Blenderm tape but they continue to fly very well. They are not fragile like Depron F3P models.

BTW they don't fly super slow like a Night Vapor or an Ares Pup (or super light F3P models) but the Twisted Hobbies superlite models are great for low cost indoor aerobatics/3D.

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  • 1 month later...

Much delay on the Sakura after I clod fingered destroyed it's motor installing it.

So far have flown it outdoors. Not good so far, it flies fine, at speed, very agile. Low speed is vague, and it has a funny drop a wing trick, and I think something is tucking under occasionally. But not for me indoors wher I want to fly in a single basketball court. I think it needs more carbon.

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