James Mark Posted December 28, 2018 Share Posted December 28, 2018 A I’ve finally started building the Top Flite Corsair kit that’s been hiding in my shed for too many years! Thought I would do a build blog so I can ask for advice as the build progresses. I’ll try and attach photos as I go along. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Mark Posted December 28, 2018 Author Share Posted December 28, 2018 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted December 28, 2018 Share Posted December 28, 2018 Nice one James. These fly well and look great but will bite you if you are too aggressive or try to 'float' it on landing. Its got a high wing loading so fly it down to the floor with some authority. I flew one some time ago for a club mate. It was well powered by an OS91 fs even with the wrong prop. I recommended he change it to 14x7 from 13x8 but he busted it before he got the chance. If you fit retracts dont use the robart ones suggested in the kit. I have a pair from my P40 and they are pants! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Jenkins Posted December 28, 2018 Share Posted December 28, 2018 Watching. I have a TF Mustang to build! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Mark Posted December 29, 2018 Author Share Posted December 29, 2018 Thank you for the advice Jon. I am intending fitting retracts and would like to fit an electric pair, but still haven’t seen anything suitable, has anyone any advice on this subject? Engine will be a Saito 90 fs which should provide plenty grunt. Flaps are also going to be fitted to help with landings... so much work to be done. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graeme Poke Posted December 29, 2018 Share Posted December 29, 2018 hello James, I have been using "Aircraft Mechanics" electric retracts in my Blackhorse Heinkel 112-B. Nearly 200 flights in 12 months and the worm drive on one failed a couple of weeks ago. However they sell spare bits except for the frame for $40 or thereabouts. I have been very happy with them. Happy building, Graeme Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denis Watkins Posted December 29, 2018 Share Posted December 29, 2018 As Jon says, they do fly and they look great in the air , but it will try to bite you No floating about, fly to a plan, don't ad lib until you get to know the plane Our best elevator was 10mm up and 5mm down, this looks to be nothing But any more and we were porpoising when trying turns It does look the business in blue with the decals Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted December 29, 2018 Share Posted December 29, 2018 Denis has hit the nail on the head. Use very small elevator rates, to the point where you think it cannot possibly be enough....then halve it! His recommendation to fly to a plan is also spot on as smooth/thought through flying will reward you, bank and yank...not so much. Warbirds have high drag so as soon as you are yanking on the elevator its slowing down unless you have used a monster engine. The model will just feel like you are dragging an elephant behind it if you fly this way. Let it run, use all the sky and be smooth with everything. Your saito 91 will be fine, and again i would start the bidding with a 14x7 prop. 15x6 may also be an option for additional thrust but at the cost of some speed. I use 15x6 on my laser 80 powered Hurricane and its plenty fast at half throttle. The addition of flaps is a good idea and dont be afraid to hang them like barn doors. You need drag for steep approaches and 15mm of flap wont cut it. Just look at photos of the full size to see what i mean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveyP Posted December 29, 2018 Share Posted December 29, 2018 Posted by Peter Jenkins on 28/12/2018 23:44:21: Watching. I have a TF Mustang to build! I also have a Topflite Gold edition Mustang kit, but have decided to sell it. Complete and unstarted if anyone is interested £100 + p & p. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Mander 1 Posted December 29, 2018 Share Posted December 29, 2018 I am building one for a friend, using electric retracts from FMS as fitted to their 68in Corsair, Robart wheels fit the struts supplied, but you will have to do some mods to the rails, I made new ones from 1/4 ply, this sits the unit lower in the wing so the top sheeting clears it, the Robart ones have the top of the frame angled so they clear it. Hope this helps a little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Mark Posted January 2, 2019 Author Share Posted January 2, 2019 .Thank you all for your help and tips, much appreciated. Finally was able to get back to the building board after the New Year celebrations. I’ve finished the elevators and rudder and have started the fuselage, the photo shows all the formers and stringers in place but I’ve not glued anything yet until I’m sure everything is in the correct place! Will leave building the wing until I’ve got the retracts on the bench. The retracts have to be the ‘twist and turn’ type so not sure if aircraft mechanics do that style but will look at the FMS brand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Mark Posted January 3, 2019 Author Share Posted January 3, 2019 Started gluing the formers in place. I prefer to use pva rather than CA as recommended in the instructions, I think you get a stronger joint, am I right? Only down side is it takes much longer to set so you get less done in an evening! Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Mark Posted January 3, 2019 Author Share Posted January 3, 2019 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Mark Posted January 3, 2019 Author Share Posted January 3, 2019 Oops posted the wrong photo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted January 3, 2019 Share Posted January 3, 2019 Personally i use cyano (thin and medium depending on the job) and epoxy in my models. Call me lazy, but life is too short to wait for pva to dry. While i am sure pva gives a stronger bond i work on the basis that if i have hit the ground hard enough to crack the cyano its probably all gone wrong anyway. Edited By Jon - Laser Engines on 03/01/2019 23:07:48 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Mark Posted January 3, 2019 Author Share Posted January 3, 2019 Yes Jon, life is too short to wait for pva to dry! Think I will take your advice and only use pva and epoxy on the critical areas. It does speed up the building process immensely. You can always work a scalpel to undo mistakes! Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Jenkins Posted January 3, 2019 Share Posted January 3, 2019 I've just tried some aliphatic glue and that's what I now use unless I want absolute speed. It grips pretty quickly unlike PVA, sands easily and doesn't give off noxious (to me) odours like Cyano. Worth a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Freeman 3 Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 Nice project this, I will follow with interest. I have one of the original red box kits which has more parts than this kit but is the same size. Weight can be an issue with these kits so the type of finish must be considered as glass and paint can result in a heavy airframe. I built a TF Mustang and covered in film and looks ok but is fun to fly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 I helped a chap build a TF spitfire some years ago and was horrified by the state of the wood. I am pretty sure they just took shavings from railway sleepers and called it a day. Im sure it wasnt balsa as it felt odd, was rock hard and very heavy. Trying to curve it round the fuselage was a pain. I recommend he replaced almost all of it but he ignored me as he claimed it was too expensive. As a result, and combined with his brutal attempt at glassing, the model weighed an absolute ton and to my knowledge never flew. Chris your mustang looks great and silver film is a good choice for warbirds as it takes paint well and can be weathered nicely for a realistic finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Mark Posted January 5, 2019 Author Share Posted January 5, 2019 That’s the top section of the fuselage ready for sheeting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Mark Posted January 6, 2019 Author Share Posted January 6, 2019 Top section all sheeted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted January 6, 2019 Share Posted January 6, 2019 i find this stage of the build very exciting. Things frame up pretty quickly and before too long its time to place all the parts together and admire it. If i spent as much time building as i did admiring i would probably be done in half the time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Mark Posted January 6, 2019 Author Share Posted January 6, 2019 Yes Jon, it is exciting, the problem is keeping the momentum up. I have also found that some of the supplied wood is incredible hard. I replaced the 1/2” thick top sheet and all the top 3/32 with soft ones I had in stock. I’ll use the supplied wood in the wood burner to keep us warm! I noticed in an earlier forum that a builder reccomended using a separate snake for the taIl wheel rather than what Top Flite show on the plan i.e combining the rudder and tail wheel on to the same snake.I think adjustment would be difficult if not impossible in the plan suggested method. Has anyone any experience of this set up? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Mark Posted March 21, 2019 Author Share Posted March 21, 2019 It’s been awhile since I’ve had time to continue the build, what with work,a house renovation,and a little bit of procrastination. However I’ve restarted and finished the lower deck framing and most of the sheeting. Then made a start to the centre section, it turned out to be easier than I first thought it would be. Retract should be arriving shortly, but I should be able to build the outer sections without the retract, just cannot join the pieces together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Mark Posted March 21, 2019 Author Share Posted March 21, 2019 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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