Solartex, any tips?

[Foxfan]

I've finally found my roll of white Solartex and had a go with it on the rudder of my Electri-Cub. I used a domestic iron which didn't seem to do much to start with so I turned its wick up and got some sticking, but it still wanted to peel off here and there until I went back over it.

So, my questions include:- does Tex need more heat?

Does it need a different technique?

I know it's no longer made, but I have the roll here, undamaged, so I might as well use it, especially on a model of a traditional fabric covered aircraft.

What paints do people use on Solartex? I'm thinking Rustoleum enamel. I can get it cheaply locally.

Cheers,

Martin

[bert baker]

Using Balsaloc can be helpful,, as is remembering to take the backing off.

Nothing Special to do

look at the instructions it shows how to visually set the iron temperature

[John Bisset]

As far as paint is concerned over Solartex, I've sprayed both cellulose and acrylic paints successfully. Acrylics do need a bit more care in surface cleanliness before application. Adhesion on clean Solartex was good.

I did use some Iso propyl alcohol once on what looked to be a rather grubby surface. That need some time to dry and a gentle rub with a soft (lint free) cloth helped things along. ( I wondered about using acetone but suspected that it would attack the Solartex. Never tried it!)

AS Bert said, Balsaloc helps if you have adhesion problems, though not something I've seen with Solartex. I have had that trouble with Solarfilm, which seems more sensitive to iron temperature variation. It also didn't take paint well for me - maybe too smooth so the paint doesn't key well I suppose.

[Foxfan]

This didn't have any instructions, Bert . Backing was almost falling off anyway.

I found passing the iron over it didn't shrink it, so will have to try the heat gun.

Martin

[Foxfan]

Thanks, John. If you used cellulose paint, acetone wouldn't have been a problem. My experience of actual acetone was most unpleasant. I was given some to clean a few items in a laminating shop to clean glass fibre tools. I got some spilled on my jeans and ended up breathing it in on the way home. I was then sick as a dog for three days and could smell it everywhere I went for a fortnight, despite throwing the clothes away! So, please be careful if you're dealing with actual acetone. Cellulose thinners, even gun wash is no where near as virulent and I use that (outdoors) all the time to thin and clean paint from spray guns.

I think I'll try the Rustoleum enamel which I can buy from my local Boyes branch for way cheaper than B&Q, for instance. Acrylic is, in my experience, complete crap! I avoid water based anything!

Martin

[Peter Miller]

I always sprayed Solartex with car spray paint cans.

I use Acetone in small amounts for cleaing off marks, CA glues, epoxy etc. Also when working at a fibreglass company where it was used to clean all the tools etc.

One place I used to work in used a lot of acetone for extracting essential oils. I can remember working with acetone all over the floor. Either the stuff you were upset by was NOT acetone or you are allergic to it. After all it is sold as nail varnish remover..

Edited By Peter Miller on 07/08/2019 21:07:23

[John Bisset]

I agree that you need to be careful with acetone fumes Martin. Should have said that. I use it for cleaning up after glassfibre work, amongst other things. Plenty ventilation helps - ideally an open air job! (I am old enough to remember the nausea involved with using trichloroethylene in confined spaces long ago. It was even used as a clothes cleaner at one time, before we realised how nasty it was!)

Of course acetone will remove cellulose paint, but it is a darn good degreaser! I agree that acrylics can be a pain. Much more hot & miss for me than good old fashioned cellulose.

[Foxfan]

Absolutely, John. Between my son and I we have a few good basic colours in cellulose. It isn't gone, by any means. If you get a colour mixed at Halfords it's cellulose, whatever they claim. Tamiya spray paints are cellulose and the superb Zero paints are definitely cellulose. Being a professional modelmaker means I get to experience many more different materials than most who only do one discipline. Tamiya and Zero tend to be used by the static model worlds.

I tend to use a lot of enamels too, especially HRG, but these new Rustoleum paints are excellent value and even Lidls and Aldi do occasional colours in a very good German enamel, including a clear lacquer (always useful).

Martin

[David Davis]

I'd caution against using Rustoleum. This guy added over 2.5 lbs to the weight of his admittedly large vintage model while using this paint. **LINK**

The model was stripped and re-covered in plain Vintage Orange Solartex and it flew much better when it had been on a diet. Check out Posts 106 and 126.

Finally I've never had any trouble getting Solartex to stick to balsa but I use a proper aeromodelling iron with the temperature indicated on the handle. About 100C-120C works for me.

[John Bisset]

That is useful information about Halfords Martin, thanks. My previous source for cellulose paint was a local motor parts supplier, but they now only seem to have acrylics and two pack.

I too have some basic colours in cellulose stored away, plus some old cellulose paint mixers which I got from a garage which was giving up spraying. Those I have to keep thinning back, since the tins and jars leak slowly. Luckily cellulose paint can recover quite well.

[Foxfan]

David, to add 2 1/2 lbs. he must have put it on with a tar brush! The beauty of enamel is that it has a dense enough pigment to be used very thin. I have painted a Foamboard model with a light coat of Rustoleum rattle can enamel and there's still plenty left. I need to paint the Solartex because it's a grubby white and I don't like white anyway, least of all for a Cub.

But thanks for the reminder that paint can be heavy if not used with care.

I might spring for a tenner for a travel iron, but 30 quid for a model iron is too much.

Martin

[Foxfan]

Peter, sorry missed your post. I didn't get a notification. Acetone is the major component of cellulose thinners, but doesn't come out as so vicious as it does on its own. I can assure you that what I was splashed with in the Belgian workshop was pure acetone. I remember asking why they didn't use gun wash or straight cellulose thinners and was answered with a typical Gallic shrug. The fumes are potentially dangerous. That was the first time I ever came into contact with it. I think you'll find that nail varnish remover is nearer to cellulose thinners than pure acetone and has certain oils in it to stop it taking oils from the skin and nails. It also smells of pear drops, a sure test for cellulose thinners (or cell. paint).

If I can have a sensitivity to it (not much affects me) then anyone can. OK I also can't be anywhere near superglue activator either. But that's about it. I must admit, enamel paint in a hot room is a foul stink too.

I will certainly try the use of rattle cans as although they claim the paints are acrylic, they really don't smell like acrylic! And they go on like cellulose/enamels

Martin

[Peter Miller]

Allergies can be very nasty.

I don't know if anyone remembers the little bottles of clear liquid plastic glue in the old Pilot kits, used for joning the cowls etc.

I built up an allergy to that, First made my eyes water but before I realised what it was my eyeballs ended u like lumps of mince.

When one eye had gone I had to take my mother to the eye clinic.. The nusre took one look at me and whipped me straight in. they did all sots of tests but could not find anything tocause it.

Next time I was blind for three days, that was when I realised what it was.

Very, very frightening I can tell you

[Bob Cotsford]

Generally Solartex will need a higher setting on the iron than Solarfilm. If going over the edges with a hotter iron doesn't do it then it will need a wipe of Balsaloc or thin PVA around the edges of the airframe. I've got some red Solartex the kept coming loose, I have cured that with a judicious wipe of Balsaloc here and there. I'm using scraps to refurb a Baronette and am finding a smear of thin PVA just as good.

[Engine Doctor]

The adhesive on Solar Tex and other iron on films can de grade and if as you say the protective covering was falling off then it's likely not at it's best. It usually adheres well with medium heat. I does need a higher heat to shrink it than solar-film

Modern cellulose thinners contains a high content of toluene It'sand xylene ,nasty substances by that is easily absorbed through you skin or inhalation and can affect your heart rate amongst other side effects so please be careful when using it.

Be aware that most single pack car paints Inc rattle cans are not fuel resistant and raw fuel or burnt fuel waste will remove or damage them with ease. You will need to apply a coat of fuel proofer.

Good luck and show us some pics of your efforts.

[Foxfan]

Thanks Bob. I'll bear that in mind.

Doc, I always use nitrile gloves when I paint and always spray outside up wind (and it's always windy where I live!). A bit of common sense with all these things goes a long way.

I think I'll stick with enamel paints...see how they fair with fuel. Can one even still buy fuel proofer any more? Used to come in a wee tartan tin from the ghastly Humbrol company if I recall aright.

Martin

[bert baker]

[bert baker]

[bert baker]

[bert baker]

I’m so no paparazzi ,

hope it helps you,,,

there was a dvd available on using Solartex,,

probably loads of videos on YouTube

[Don Fry]

Foxfan, don't use an air gun. No temperature control, therefore no control on the % of shrink.

[Foxfan]

Ah, well, thereby hangs a problem then. I am bald and my wife prefers to let her hair air dry, which it does with ease, quickly and always seems much better for it, so we don't even possess a hair dryer.

What would you suggest?

Martin

[Foxfan]

Bert, many thanks for your attachments. They do indeed help.

Cheers,

Martin

[Don Fry]

A hair dryer is too cold. The guns used to mistreat Solartex are more akin to paint stripper units, although not quite as hot. But as I said, none of them give good temperature control. Have you calibrated your iron, as Solartex instructions, because without that basic knowledge you can't say your Solartex is good to use, or is useless.

[Foxfan]

Don, I have used my hot air gun to liquify tar and pitch and gently encourage epoxy resin, when I was restoring my wooden canal boat, so have some experience of being careful with it, but can clearly see how the line drawn for shrinking Solartex would be easilly crossed. I will have to "calibrate" my iron like Bert's instruction attachments using squares of material to see how they wrinkle. Today, the Cub rudder is still covered, no lifting, but needs shrinking and I can't see how to do that.

Martin