information wanted

[JACK]

Hi all,l have just come in to possession of a very nice glider and am looking for more info on it...its from a company called "Frankenmodellbau" and the model is a "Highlight Mega",apparently the kit was/is stocked by West London Models,the model l have appears to be an unfinished kit,but confusion arises as to whether it was meant to be an electric model or a lightweight slope soarer,the info l have found so far indicates its a glider,but the fuz nose looks like its intended to accept a motor,any info gratefully received!!....jack

[Dickw]

Any useful information here?

It looks like the Highlight was a range of models so perhaps a universal fuselage that could be used as both electric or not. A fairly common approach among kit manufacturers.

Dick

[Sheepish]

Hi

Try a search for “Highlight” on the BARCS site. (British Association of Radio Controlled Soarers) if you haven’t already done so.

IIRC there was a thread on this very subject not long ago. I am sure if you also posted some pictures of what you have on the site someone will be along with whatever information you need.

[Nigel Dell]

Hi Jack

is this the one you mean?

It came as either a glider or electric, the electric fuz is cut off for the motor mount and also wider to accommodate the batteries.

Also has a carbon moulded hatch under the tail for the servo mounts unlike the glider version, I have the instructions some where, but if you would like some more detailed install pictures I will dig it out and take some for you.

A nice flying model, Frankenmodellbau were an importer and didn’t actually make them, not too sure but I think NaN was the manufacturer but this was a long time ago I know NaN made the Mamba also supplied by Franken.

It is a 2m model they did also make a larger one at 3.4m IIRC.

If you need anymore please let me know.

[JACK]

hi nigel,yes,thats the one,l suppose that l may as well fit a motor,the fuz has nose intakes for cooling,l can always machine up a nose block to attach to the motor shaft in place of the prop assembley….the model just needs finishing off in a few places to be ready to fly,if we are ever allowed out again that is,l would very much appreciate copies of any instructions etc you may have,will cover any costs of course,all the best,jack.

[Nigel Dell]

Hi Jack

I will have to look them out, I am sure I had them when I converted it over to 2.4g just remembering what pile they are in!😳🤪🤣

Cheers

Nige.

[JACK]

thanks nigel,an officer and a gentleman!!,what size motor do you have in yours?,the drive train bits that came with the model look kind of dodgy so l will be replacing them along with the collection of odd servos that were included,got some on order with 4max,but the motor l have...1100Kv/200 watt...looks a bit rough so needs replacing,thanks for your help,pics to follow,stay safe,jack.

[Nigel Dell]

Hi Jack

The motor in mine is a MVVS 4.6/1120 sport I first used it on 3S but have now gone to 4S, it was ok and steady on 3S but a little more sprightly now, this is a 700w motor can’t remember the figures at the moment but this not a slow thermal model, it does like to move!

[JACK]

Hi nigel,thanks for that,l was thinking that it is probably a bit of a mover,that was one of the reasons l binned the servos etc,l am treating this model like a new kit and fitting all new gear,would l be right in thinking that the tailplane is retained by clear tape?,l don't see any other means of retention....really looking forward to getting this model in the air,that is if we ever get to go flying again,take care,stay safe,jack.

[Nigel Dell]

Hi Jack

The instructions, when I can find them, do not give a lot away!🙄 apart from CG and throws, There were about 3 pictures of the install which required the servos to be glued in, so being someone who likes things removable for service or dud I made up my own way of doing it.

the tail halves can be taped on but again I was not impressed with that idea although perfectly workable and I do make a habit of making things more difficult than they could be!

I drilled and tapped a hole in each half through the fuz for an M3 stud, I cut the head off a bolt basically and screwed into each tail half with a sob of epoxy rather than cyano, fumes make the film cloudy on the inside! Then retained each half with a nylon nut, you can use an M2 stud and metal nut but the smallest nylon nut I had was an M3.

I checked the servos on the tail this morning and I used JR 371’s, also used those on the ailerons with either Hitec 81 mg’s on the flaps or metal geared JR 331 can’t remember either are ok though and these may not be available now as this was something like 2006.

I have attached a few photos of the tail install and nose, which is more than you got in the instructions!😅

[Nigel Dell]

Sorry they are out of order but you can get the drift, stay safe.

[JACK]

cheers nigel,photos are great,like you l really don't like glueing servos in,its a safe bet that they will need to be replaced at some point,got some good servos on order from 4MAX,2.5 Kg pull-will do for me-,motor and esc from there as well,Hbbyking UK have shut down or l would have gone there...l am estimating an auw of around 2lbs,l have a 3s/1300 lipo to hand so will see how it goes on that.....stay vsafe,jack.

[Frank Skilbeck]

Posted by JACK on 29/03/2020 13:30:43:

l really don't like glueing servos in,its a safe bet that they will need to be replaced at some point,

If you wrap them in tape or heat shrink before you glue them in you can get them out easily.

[Nigel Dell]

2.5kg pull is fine Jack I think that is the specs of the JR’s the only thing I will say is on the tail I used ball links and have no slop at all, the other controls are good too but it was recommended to me and I would definitely go that way.

I can do a drawing on the servo mounts in the tail if it is of use to give you an idea for your own install as you can’t see it too well.

It is worth the effort, the battery mount in the nose, the instructions say glue in a piece of 1/4” square spruce down the centre of the fuz bottom and glue the battery tray to it, I used 1/16” ply laminated carbon either side of it (I was going through a phase!😅 I did epoxy the tray to the spruce but ran a bead of silicon adhesive down either side of the tray so there was a flexible joint I did use small screws down the centreline into the spruce to make absolutely sure nothing could move as I was/am using 3300mah batteries, with the long moment arm it was better using usable weight to balance than lead, in fact I cannot remember using any lead to balance at all, I just moved the battery, weight I can’t remember but I think it is nearer 3lbs but as I say I use larger cells, I changed to a 2200mah 4S from 3300mah 3S with no change in cg.

Enjoy practise safe non virus modelling😷

[JACK]

cheers nigel,l will post some pics when l get a chance....trying to complete a 1:3 scale slingsby petrel for a friend,so my own models take a bit of a back seat,l will be aiming for the lower end of the performance envelope,so we will see how the 3s/1300mah gets on,the motor and esc will cope with 4s,but l think my preference will be for a 3s,l would like to keep the weight down to around the 2 lbs mark if l can,all the best,jack.