Oily Areas During Model Stripdown

[Tosh McCaber]

I'm refurbishing one of my old glow plug models. I'm planning replacing the glow engine with an electric motor. Having stripped the Solarfilm, I've found some balsa/ plywood areas are slightly greasy with engine oil, which has soaked through. Has anyone any suggestions how to clean up these areas so that the new solarfilm will stick??

[Keith Berriman]

Hi Tosh an old favourite trick of mine was Talcolm Powder if you have some in back of bathroom cabinet. May need cleaning away and a new dosing applied .

[Engine Doctor]

Another way to remove some of the oil is to cover with some absorbent paper then apply an hot iron .Keep changing the paper . Once you have removed as much oil as you can paint on a thin coat of Deluxe materials CoverGrip before recovering. If by chance you have any "Solarfilm Clearcoat " use this instead of the CoverGrip..I was also told long ago by an old timer that a thin coat of spirit based laquer like french polish would seal the oily surface after the iron/paper treatment allowing the new film to stick ; clear dope may also work.

The talc will work in much the same way but takes a bit longer to draw out the oil.

[Cuban8]

I've had quite good results by cleaning the fuel soaked area with cellulose thinners and soaking up the residue with kitchen towel - might take quite a bit of solvent and a few rolls of towel and then you'll never get all the contamination out, just do your best. When you've done all you can, give the area a few coats of slightly thinned Clearcoat or the Profilm equivalent now that Solarfilm are no more and get the sealer well into the wood. Note that what you use mustn't be water based sealer, it won't work at all.

Apply heat shrink film as usual and with any luck it'll bond ok.

Re the Profilm sealer - I bought some recently as I was out of Clearcoat and it works very well. Stinks to high heaven similar to the old Evostick glue but has excellent heat sealing properties.

Edited By Cuban8 on 15/11/2020 13:37:26

[alex nicol]

Wet the area down with acetone, remove any excess with kitchen roll, Then brown paper ironed will draw the remainder out (repeat if required) you can finish with a thin coat of varnish or sealer if required

Good Luck with whatever method you try

[Former Member]

[This posting has been removed]

[Shaun Walsh]

Has anyone tried using Ronseal wood hardener to strengthen soft balsa after removing as much fuel residue as possible? I believe that it is epoxy based and would probably act as a fuel proofer too.

[Shaun Walsh]

Assuming that the residues left in the wood are the lubricating oil it would probably be better to use Methanol to remove them, not sure how soluble castor and synthetic oils are in acetone or cellulose thinners.

[Tosh McCaber]

Thanks for all the replies!!

[kc]

Using an iron to put the new film on will draw more oil to the surface so it may be better to re-cover with tissue & dope on those areas most affected.

Also worth considering replacing oil soaked balsa with new. Maybe cut off a badly soaked front end and graft on a new balsa front - might seem more work but it might be easier and more satisfying in the long run.

[Gary Clark 1]

All the methods mentioned above work but i find it ends up being quicker just replacing that area of balsa. 10 minutes cutting it out and the same again to fit it followed by a little sanding. Saves all the mess and smell of using a chemical. That being said, with balsa being harder to get it may not be the best option nowadays!

Gary