Chris Walby Posted November 25, 2021 Share Posted November 25, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, Peter Miller said: Mine was ic and everyone was amazed at how safe it was on one engine.it was hard to tel which engine had stopped and it was safe to turn into the dead engine. Of course this doesn't apply to electric as it is always on two motors -----Original Message----- Peter....apart from two things, one I have had more electric one engine dead sticks than IC on twins (perhaps why I use Laser engines in preference) and secondly I have the TX set up to dead stick one electric motor so I can practice in the future (with the ability for restart if things go really pear shaped!). I was hoping to encourage Earlybird to the dark side of twins ?...oh and yet more Peter Miller designs ? Edited November 25, 2021 by Chris Walby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted November 25, 2021 Share Posted November 25, 2021 Ah well.If you have dead stick on one engine with electric power then Grumpy Tiger Cub is a MUST build!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted November 25, 2021 Author Share Posted November 25, 2021 Just checked and Sarik don't do the laser cut parts. GTC will have to wait until I have more experience and progressed to building from a plan. So far. Ballerina RF-4 Swizzle Stick The Ohmen Rhapsody and another plan pack on the way (Peter's of course) I had toyed with the idea of building all of Peter's designs but not only are there something like seventy on Sarik there are also other publishers, Rhapsody came from Doolittle and they have others. I gave up on that idea and decided to build as many as I can while I can. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted November 25, 2021 Share Posted November 25, 2021 EB, that's why I said to contact me...I have access to the cutting files and a contact who can laser cut the GTC parts for you + a spare canopy should you need one of those. PS I waited for two years for Sarik to promise and not deliver on a kit for the GTC. ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted November 25, 2021 Author Share Posted November 25, 2021 1 hour ago, Chris Walby said: EB, that's why I said to contact me...I have access to the cutting files and a contact who can laser cut the GTC parts for you + a spare canopy should you need one of those. PS I waited for two years for Sarik to promise and not deliver on a kit for the GTC. ? I completely missed you generous offer? I just don't read properly which has been a lifelong issue. ? a twin would be a new challenge, I'm always up for a challenge. I only have two models in the queue but Rhapsody looks like it will take some time. No rush but ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted November 25, 2021 Share Posted November 25, 2021 4 hours ago, EarlyBird said: J I had toyed with the idea of building all of Peter's designs but not only are there something like seventy on Sarik there are also other publishers, Rhapsody came from Doolittle and they have others. I gave up on that idea and decided to build as many as I can while I can. ? Only 193 published so far but a few are in the USA. See Outer Zone A few of those 193 are duplicates in other countries and a a couple are resurrected vintage designs 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted January 31, 2023 Author Share Posted January 31, 2023 Having flown the Ohmen for some time now it's now in the workshop for repairs. I am taking the opportunity to make some changes and sort a couple of self inflicted issues. I have been practicing for the B test with it and due to my lack of rudder experience I used rudder trim to achieve vertical flight for the stall turn. This works and gives perfect infinite vertical flight but the stall turn only works one way, the opposite way to the rudder trim. Sorry Peter but due to my lack of experience I am putting in 2 degrees right offset on the motor. In winds above 10 mph it will not taxi back so I am changing the skid for a steerable tailwheel. I am in the process of extending the nose, yes I should never have shortened it by 15 mm, my hope is that none of the 80 grams of lead will be needed in the cowl. There is also the option to move a servo from the tail into the fuselage, we will see how the plan works out. My final change will be to put the C of G at 25% of wing cord. I started at 30% and have gradually moved it forward. Whatever you have been told before about a safe starting point for the C of G being on the spar is not true for Peter's designs. At 30% it flies but has a horrible habit of dropping a wing which means it has to be watched constantly. I fitted a stabilised receiver, which cured this tendency but as I moved the C of G forward the bad habits disappeared and there was no difference in the way it flew with stabilised switched on or off. It's now a joy to fly or was until a landing on Tarmac turned into acrobatics. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted January 31, 2023 Share Posted January 31, 2023 Ah!!!! So you feel the need to move the CG forward to 25%. I wonder why I specify "CG at 25% chord" . Just possibly I may know what I am doing!!! Don't worry. Other people have complained about the odd model when they set the CG at 30% and then expressed amazement when they moved it forward!! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Didier Posted February 3, 2023 Share Posted February 3, 2023 My Ohmen is exactly at 25% CG without a gram of lead. It will be a bit more noseheavy with fuel, but I don’t think it should be a problem. With the FS26, I placed the rudder and elevator servo in the tail. 1000mAh batt is below the fuel tank. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted February 3, 2023 Share Posted February 3, 2023 it will not matter if the CG is a fraction further forward with the fuel. You will not notice any difference. IT will be perfect as the fuel burns off. As the old saying goes."With the CG too far forward it may not fly well.With it too far back it won't fly 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted February 19, 2023 Author Share Posted February 19, 2023 (edited) I moved the motor forward to the design position plus 6 mm just to make sure, which involved extending the battery hatch. The ESC has been moved as far forward as possible under the motor as I wanted to make certain. The Cowl needed recovering which is now done and it's ready to fly again. It does not look as pretty as it did due to the patched covering which makes it well and truly my Winter hack. Steve Edited February 19, 2023 by EarlyBird Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted September 8, 2023 Author Share Posted September 8, 2023 On 19/02/2023 at 14:37, EarlyBird said: It does not look as pretty as it did due to the patched covering which makes it well and truly my Winter hack. But maybe not judging by these recent flying shots. Looks fine at fifty feet even though it's a bit worse for wear. A big thankyou to Mike Mennell for the excellent pictures. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted September 8, 2023 Share Posted September 8, 2023 Looks great and very happy that you are enjoying her...but please add a pilot to bring it to life 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted December 13, 2023 Author Share Posted December 13, 2023 Having given the plan away I had better correct some mistakes. Now get the second plan pack out and start building again but this time leave the servos in the fuselage. That was the first big mistake. I will also include windshield and pilot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted December 13, 2023 Share Posted December 13, 2023 PM me and I can let you have a copy of the plan....my original!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted December 13, 2023 Author Share Posted December 13, 2023 Thanks Peter but I bought the plan as well. all three sheets. Anyone think there's a lot of wood there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted December 14, 2023 Author Share Posted December 14, 2023 It was my Christmas present to myself two years ago and I have just opened it. The extra wood is for the T31M, Started The Ohmen Next is to measure and cut the spars and LE/TE sheet ready for glueing. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted December 15, 2023 Author Share Posted December 15, 2023 562 mm 22" is the width from root to last rib. Set up a jig and cut six spars. Cut two 100 mm1/16" sheets to this width then cut off a 17 mm strip for the TE cap strip, Glued the spars to the edge of the LE and TE with the help of a ruler, Test fitted the ribs to locate the TE, Glued the tip rib, and started cutting the shear webs, The root rib will be at an angle for the required dihedral. From the plan it's 3/4" at 22" from the root so 2 degrees say, by rule of thumb. More shear webs to make for both wings including the dihedral one. Steve 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted December 16, 2023 Author Share Posted December 16, 2023 Shear webs completed and test fitted. Started with the glue on the web then butting up the next rib. Continued adding webs and ribs. Here we are half way. and all done waiting for something Ah yes glue to dry. I can't add the root rib until the paper tube is installed. Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted December 17, 2023 Author Share Posted December 17, 2023 Top spar added using clothes pegs to clamp the shear webs to the spar, saves buying 2" bulldog paper clips. and dihedral braces glued. I also remembered the paper tube but should have done it after the braces because it's in the way of the clamps.😳 the bottom brace was kept up 1/16" using scrap ply, which I had just pulled back when the clamps were in place as I didn't want it to be permanent. 🤣 Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted December 18, 2023 Author Share Posted December 18, 2023 Root rib glued at some sort of angle. Pulled up the LE sheeting. Ample weight to keep the wing flat to the board. 1/8", 1/4" and 1/16" packing to keep the sheet in contact with the ribs along their length. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted December 18, 2023 Share Posted December 18, 2023 Personally I don't pull up the lower leading edge sheet until the leading edge is glue in place. Also the second root rib is not glued in place until the wings are joined. That way you get a perfect fit at the root. Th spar webs are not glued in until both top and bottom spars are glued in. But then I do things the easy way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted December 19, 2023 Author Share Posted December 19, 2023 Thanks Peter. The leading edge cut at an angle then sanded to shape with the aid of a few test fits, Once happy I turn the LE full sheet over and cut to width, again at an angle, then glue, Not a good photo but shows the LE and the packing. After shaping That's better. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted December 19, 2023 Share Posted December 19, 2023 What ever works for you. I build my wings with the leading edge overhanging the building board. Glue on the leading edge, raise the lower sheet to fit and hold in place with map pins Then hit it with Superphatic glue. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted December 21, 2023 Author Share Posted December 21, 2023 I have to work this way as I have great difficulty using pins. Finished shaping the LE and TE aileron spar then added the scrap balsa for the hinges and wing plate. Then added the TE cap strip, again 17 mm cut off a 100 mm sheet which leaves enough for the LE top sheet. I spotted a mistake. Too late now. 😭 For me anyway but John my club mate has not got this far. Maybe. LE top sheet next. 🤔 I have been thinking of some more bright ideas 💡 😭 Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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