Rich Griff Posted November 11, 2022 Share Posted November 11, 2022 If you don't know you don't know.... I have never used copydex before. The cleaning instruction say use lots of cold water and rub.... Can copydex be "thinned" a bit with water please ? Any other tips using this glue please ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul De Tourtoulon Posted November 11, 2022 Share Posted November 11, 2022 We used it to glue fringes on dralon furniture and rubbed it off with a rubber like the one that cobblers use to rub off excess contact adhesive on shoe soles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Griff Posted November 11, 2022 Author Share Posted November 11, 2022 It's to repair some parting Venier on some uncovered wings. I have opened the new container and it seems reasonably thin ish but a little thinner would be better I feel. I think I will need to test some by thinning a little bit.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Fry Posted November 11, 2022 Share Posted November 11, 2022 Makers say it’s latex devolved in water, so water away. Your tests might also include water with a drip of detergent in, to increase wetability, as you are also hoping it migrates into cracks and pores, like thin cyno does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Stephenson Posted November 11, 2022 Share Posted November 11, 2022 I've used it on veneer for foam wings, it is a contact adhesive which should be applied to both surfaces to be attached. Once it touches it can't be slid or removed so you have to be careful how it's applied. It dries quickly and it goes into rolls if rubbed it's unlike any other adhesive I've used. It can be purchased in large quantities from an art shop for moulding and is known simply as liquid latex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Griff Posted November 12, 2022 Author Share Posted November 12, 2022 Moulding, mmmmmm... Thanks guys, much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris collis Posted November 12, 2022 Share Posted November 12, 2022 Just a little tip.when using Copydex ,drop a few drops of food colourant in especially if you’re veneering foam wings.Helps to see where it’s going and how much is going on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Griff Posted November 12, 2022 Author Share Posted November 12, 2022 Good tip, thanks Chris... The areas of veener lifting I will mask off, pour in some copydex and press the veener down, held in place with some tap and then place wing panel in the foam core, wieght, and left for a day. When done I will enquire as to the wings as I have no idea of what they are for.... If they cannot be identified ( that's Gunna be a challenge ! ) I will make a "bitsa"......anyways back to the grindstone ( lathe ) so I can have a pressing time later.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul De Tourtoulon Posted November 12, 2022 Share Posted November 12, 2022 You can also find a clear gel contact adhesive that wont eat the foam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Stephenson Posted November 12, 2022 Share Posted November 12, 2022 Uhu Por is good for all foam so also is Gorilla clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Dell Posted November 18, 2022 Share Posted November 18, 2022 I use liquid latex to make flexible moulds when doing my antique ceramic restoration, the first few coats are put on neat then when dry the latex is bulked out using fine saw dust otherwise it takes forever, when using for veneers it is best to coat each surface then let go off then place together, if you pore in and tape the area it is likely not to go off or at least take a longtime to even show signs of going off with unknown strength, I can save a mixture for a week in a reasonably sealed container and it be perfectly usable, if it is a bubble of veneer that you are trying to repair rather than edges you are better using something that chemically cures, I use ZAP Z-POXY finishing resin as this is thinner and works a treat and is reliable, just so as you are aware, latex is good for new applications of veneer but not so reliable for repairs and it does degrade over time as you are seeing with the wing now, I have moulds from the last ten years that have all but disintegrated, I tend to use epoxy to veneer foam these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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