Tim Mackey Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 Goodnight peeps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Lloyd Posted January 13, 2009 Author Share Posted January 13, 2009 The bind plug is loose in the box - does this mean it's already bound? I haven't had a chance to read up yet, so don't feel you have to spoon feed me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grizz Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 Read the hand book on binding proceedure. you have to insert the bind plug initially-no the set is not supplied already bound .You have to remove the bind plug after a successful bind otherwise the wretched thing wants to rebind everytime you switch on.WHEN you remove the bind plug DONT lose it.Its dead simple realy-but good luck anyhow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Lloyd Posted January 13, 2009 Author Share Posted January 13, 2009 Cheers John.Night John boy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slopetrashuk Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 What is all this binding rubbish. get the jart built man!No sleep till launch time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 If I were you, I would make provision somehow to access the bind socket ( battery /bind ) after the build.In my WT ( the comparison being its a foamy and the reciver and gear are all buried within ) I have an access hatch - and presumably there must be some access in the Jart to get the battery out when required ?? If you plug a simple servo extension lead into the batt socket on th Rx, and leave 'tother end accessible, then you can bind at any time, by putting the bind plug into that extension something which you just may need to do one day . Alternatively, on another model of mine I use an external, simple single pole switch, which performs the bind function - this is a model which I sometimes move from one Spektrum Tx to another, and it needs re-binding whenever I do - binding is then as simple as moving this switch to bind position and bingo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Lloyd Posted January 13, 2009 Author Share Posted January 13, 2009 No access to battery on this one - unless I make provision for it - which would be a pain...Access to the bind socket MAY be feasible.But I've got work to do! Back later... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 Well you still have to have a switch /jack to charge the battery, so incorporate the bind socket in same area? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Lloyd Posted January 13, 2009 Author Share Posted January 13, 2009 Sounds like a plan!Thinking on - I'm sure I could add an access hatch to the battery - a la WT - and tape it up with Blenderm or similar... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Lloyd Posted January 13, 2009 Author Share Posted January 13, 2009 Right - a bit of planning to do. This layout is close to LEG's recommendations, but they show a four cell fitting nicely next to a 35meg rx. My chunky 6v takes up quite a bit of space, but should be fine. Where's that satelite rx going then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 I think I would be tempted to fit it so that it was close to the top of the area just above the wing slot ( pretty well where it is now ) - and arrange for the aerials to transverse across the fuselage and even have the ends just pokiing out a little into the air if the fus is narrow enough at that point. Even if its not, at least this puts the satellite aerials at 90° to the mains. With a little bit of fettling, I would also fit a small diameter clear plastic solid rod, tightly into a hole in the fus side to line up with the main Rx LED - then you can keep an eye on things without any noticeable external signs at all.As for the 5 cell pack, surely it could just sit a little further rearward to compenasate for the small weight increase? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Morgan Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 Timbo you will have a mail soon re a pointy object I think you know what Lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Lloyd Posted January 13, 2009 Author Share Posted January 13, 2009 My thoughts exactly - that battery is just going to have to move back.Good thinking on the bind LED extension - perhaps some of that 'glo stick' type stuff that my little daughter's bracelets are made from - it's clear - and that could work like a fibre optic strand.Any road, whilst I gen up on things 2.4, I COULD be sorting the wing out. But apart from work, I keep having to go and stand on the Mynd and make sure Lee doesn't stay in the air too long. Tsk! BTW - would you be concerned if you couldn't access the battery... ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 Lee Morgan wrote (see)Timbo you will have a mail soon re a pointy object I think you know what Leeyep, arrived and responded mate - cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 Well yes I think I would - purely because one day its going to need changing. Although every one of my models ( including my WT ) bar one is now lipo powered, I think this is a case for nims - which you opted for of course.I tend to change my RC batteries approx every two years as they are cheap enough these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted January 14, 2009 Share Posted January 14, 2009 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Lloyd Posted January 20, 2009 Author Share Posted January 20, 2009 Right - here we go then! First - the wing. (And yes, that IS the breakfast bar, but it's warm and bright in the kitchen, and that worktop is seriously flat. I'm sure the missus won't notice the blobs of glue...) Glueing the spar together - nice hardwood supplied - should be very strong. Completed spar - central piece is spliced with doublers either side. Used Zap-a-gap here (thick cyano). Cleaned up the wing cores with a spare bit of EPP used as a sanding block. Trailing edge is made up of 1 x strip balsa and 1 x strip hardwood. Glued directly to trailing edge of wing. Marked up cores with outline of completed spar. Gulp! Here we go - time to hack into those precious cores! First set knife to depth of spar and cut along marked lines (I was generous here as I am going to use Gorilla Glue to fix the spar in - more later). Then set knife at full extent and slice horizontally to remove foam. Eeek! Not that bad once you get going - flex the blade to get in the slot, and chop out a bit at a time. I will trim those trailing edges before I join the wing! Keep going! Phew! That's one done. Test fit the spar. Onto the other wing - checking depth of blade before I start. All done! Test fit the spar again - ensuring there's a gap all around i.e. NOT a tight fit. If you were to use epoxy or hot glue you could make it tighter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Lloyd Posted January 20, 2009 Author Share Posted January 20, 2009 Hmm - it seems that there's a limit to the length of a post - a chunk has vanished! Under the contents of the food cupboard lies the wing inside the beds with greaseproof protecting it. This was left just over an hour after which I retrieved the wing to check how the foaming glue had got on. Just great! It had grabbed the spar nicely and started to fill the gap I left around it - but hadn't gone mad and twisted the wing which I had been warned it could do. It has started to peep out of the wing on the other side though! No problem - it can all be sanded off later. The wing was left out overnight and I filled around the spar with hot glue this morning. More later! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Stokes Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 Hi Matt I built and flew the EPP Jart last year and it's excellent. First set up was with a 35mHz set up, now I use a Spectrum AR7000 and a 6v pack with S3102 Fut servos For access to the RX I cut a section of the foam out to the side of the fuz just in front of the wing. Don't bother with flaps she may land a little fast but tip stall is not a problem and being EPP it's difficult to break. I went on to build a three part built up wing so I could sneak it in the car last holiday in Cornwall and flew if off the Cornish cliffs chasing the seagulls. Lots of fun Next I may built the fuz with a V tail.....I know starting to sound like Trigger's broom. You will love this one in standard trim and it will fly in 12mph to 25mph no problem one suggestion glass the ailerons to make them stiffer or you might get flutter at speed, or set the servo mid length rather than at the end near the fuz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Lloyd Posted January 20, 2009 Author Share Posted January 20, 2009 Hi Steve - thanks for chiming in! A couple of questions: I also thought of having access to the Rx through the fuz side. I'm thinking of cutting a hatch out but still covering it with CW tape and film - but I know it's there should I need to cut it out later. Alternatively I thought of mounting the Rx as close to the outside skin as I dare and ensuring lateral balance later with some trimming weight (but the Speky Rx weighs so little I might not need to worry about this). Did you do the same for the battery? In fact, when you switched to 2.4 did you have to rip off all your covering to get back inside? If you made a new wing, does that mean you didn't permanently fix the wing first time 'round? I also thought of beefing up the ailerons, but with CW tape. I may now glass them, and was def. going to put the servos as far out as the leads will allow. Thanks for the advice! PS Why not post a pic of your Jart? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Stokes Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 Wow I just checked my PC for build pictures of the Jart and realised that I built it way back in Nov/Dec 07 with the three-piece wing built in April/May 08. No access to the battery, dont tell Timbo but that make it just over a year old. Will have to think about digging it out and replacing it. I didnt think the plane would last this long, just show you have resilient EPP is as I have flown this constantly through 2008. Here are a few pictures original 35mHz RX wing filled ready for the CW tape Finished item I later added a bit more colour One not so good landing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Lloyd Posted January 20, 2009 Author Share Posted January 20, 2009 Thanks for sharing those Steve - that's one hell of a landing! Well, I've suffered a bit of a brain fade this evening and filled the wing before installing the servos! No worries, I will sand it down tomorrow and then fit the servos, followed by more filler. Jeez, you'd think that I hadn't spent the last two weeks reading build blogs. I can see that it's going to be fiddly installing the wing and hooking everything up, especially as there's a carbon rod running along the bottom of the fuz making it tricky to get in there - any tips you can share? Are you able to answer my quieries in my previous post? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grizz Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 Whats that battery you used Steve-seem big dia cells or is this just a camera distortion.I've just outlined and cut the blue foam fuse blank -looks great even before rounding up the section.Anyone thought of building one with a square x section ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Lloyd Posted January 21, 2009 Author Share Posted January 21, 2009 Hey John - you starting a build? Excellent! Why not start a mouldie build thread? We could compare notes... I feel a Jart Fest coming on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Lloyd Posted January 21, 2009 Author Share Posted January 21, 2009 Couldn't help myself - here's a possible colour scheme. I intend to have the graphics for the wing printed and laminated, and then 77'd onto the wing - which may be wrapped with PVA and Kraft paper over the CW tape. Should be tough enough! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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