Discussions around the Nijhuis model designs

[Allan Jordan]

Hi, Vincent, I've just sent Dave Wilson a copy of an old article from RCME that would
help you in your quest for info. regarding
canopy making. If you care to send me your
address I can do the same for you.
ALLAN JORDAN
124 LONDON ROAD.
MORDEN.SURREY SM4 5AT. Any help?

[winchweight]

Anyone know which back issue the 48" Mossie was in?

[Tony Nijhuis]

Shaun, June 2004 edition I believe

[Fats Flyer]

Hi Allan,
Thanks for your help,ill pop a couple of 1st class stamps in the post to you .it's very nice of you to take the trouble .

cheers vince

[Allan Jordan]

Hi, Shaun, I've got the plan and building
instructions in my workshop file. The are yours if you want them.Just send me your address and I will post them for you.
Allan Jordan
124 London Road.
Morden.Surrey. SM4 5AT.Regards Allan J. TTFN

[winchweight]

Thanks Allan. Can I get your email and I'll send my address straight over?

[Fats Flyer]

Hello Tony,
Thanks for the contact details for the vac form plastic.
My order turned up today,now i can have some fun.I have to make another plug now ,after seeing this months free plan.
When i see this it brought a smile to my face.I have cut out most of the parts already,As usaul a very fast build plane,and if anyone is reading this thread without buying the mag,it's a.....VAMPIRE.....so go buy a copy.
I will be doing mine for electric power.
I'm hoping that the pick a plane feature will now be closed and the plane that i want will be chosen,that of the ju 52.You have to agree tony,plenty of scope with this one eh?.


vince

[Allan Jordan]

Hi, Shaun. I will be delighted to give you my e-mail address.
[email protected]
Look forward to hearing from you. Regards Allan J. TTFN

[winchweight]

Thanks Allan, there's an email en route now.

Tony, where can I get a canopy for the vampire from?

[Allan Jordan]

Shaun. I'll send you the canopy making article along with the Mossie plan.OK!

[winchweight]

Thanks Allan.

[Allan Jordan]

Hi. graham, are you sure only a mew gull
will do? I've got the plan and instructions
for the chorus gull if you want them!

[Tony Nijhuis]

Hi Guys,

Shaun, The canopy will be available through RCM&E, but it may be a couple of weeks away as Roly at Sarik Vac Form has only just got the mould from me!. If you just can't wait (quite understandable) then I have a few spare in my workshop if you are interested!

[Fats Flyer]

Hi Tony,
Iv'e produced my first canopy from my own vac form ,but have a little problem .When i took the plug away from the plastic ,it pulled some of the wood sealer away from the plug and stuck to the mould ruining it.
what do you use to seal the wood and make the plug smooth?.


thanks

vince

[winchweight]

Thanks Tony. I would like one if you have it, although I won't be ale to build for another month or so as I am having a workshop and garage built.So maybe I should wait, rather than deny someone else the chance?

[Tony Nijhuis]

Hi Guys,
Shaun...not a problem, I usally keep spares
Vince, If you seal the wood with a fine sealer then the heat from the plastic will cause it to de-laminate. Most mould are either epoxy or glass fibre, although a hard wood that is sanded and polished does work. Can I suggest coating the mould you have with a layer (2mm thick) of car body filler and then sanding back to a smooth finish. This make a lovely hard shell!

[Fats Flyer]

Thanks Tony,
i'll try that.
Thanks for a quick response.

cheers vince

[Fats Flyer]

Tony,
the mould isn't sticking now,the body filler done the trick,but i'm now getting some marks that look like mist in most places.it's not due to overheating the styrolux,but when i plunge over the mould.do i have to coat the mould with a substance to stop this or do you know what im doing wrong.the shape and detail of the mould is perfect,it's just the misting.

thanks again

vince

[Tony Nijhuis]

Vince, Styrolux does have a slightly 'milkly' look about it but shouldn't get worse thought heating and moulding. It does scratch quite easily so don't try and polish out any blemishes. I'm just wondering if the mould is scratching the plastic when pulling the plastic over. Have you polished the mould with wet n dry? then apply a silicon spray? (furniture polish). The smoother the mould the better the canopy finish. Last suggestion is try some PETG, but it's not as easy to mould.

Tony

[Fats Flyer]

Tony,
Thanks mate,success,perfect canopy's.
The furniture polish makes all the difference,i'm surprised that the styrolux marks that easy.Tony,when you make moulds out of epoxy or glass fibre,can you please tell me how you make them ,and the name of materials you use.If i follow your lead ,i can't go wrong .
Also ,is the same styrolux sheet o.k to use for making nacelle and cowl moulds or is a thicker styrolux used.
I know your a very busy person,i appreciate the time you spend to help.
Tony,what tipple do you like,and will you be going to the bickley meet .

vince

[Neil Braiden]

Hi Tony,
I'm thinking of building my first twin i/c plane. There are so many myths and negative attitudes towards multi-engined planes I was wondering if you could advise or at least point me in the direction of some literature. Many thanks.

Neil

[Tony Nijhuis]

Vince, Glad it all went well. Styrolux make excellent cowls and even light-weight spinners!...its high impact resistant and I find better than HIP. Just key the surface and paint either the inside or outside with pretty well any paints you like.
I don't make my re-usable moulds out of epoxy. I use a herculite plaster (British Gypsum. First I carve the male mould out of balsa and put detailing in such as canopy frame line etc. Then I take a plastic moulding using 0.5mm HIP (high impact polystrene). This thin material picks up the detail but also the wood grain. Then I fill the HIP mould with plaster powder mixed with water and let cure. Break out the plaster mould and clean it up using a scaple knife, sandpaper and then polish with wet n dry after a day or so. The plaster will after a week or so feel like polished stone. The smoother the finish, the better and clearer the plastic mould will be.

Tony

[Tony Nijhuis]

Neil,
I don't know of any literature, but there are a few rules for a successful model.
1. Choose quality reliable engines. (that why electric is prefered by most modellers)
2. Always set the engines slightly rich
3. Learn to use the rudder, you'll need it on the ground and on the turns.
4. If and engine cuts in flight, throttle back to a tickover and land.
5. Aways time your flights so you never run out of fuel in flight
6. Flying with a twin will feel no different to flying a single engine.
7. 4-engines are obviously better than 2 (you can afford to loose one and still keep flying).
8. For the first model, choose a high wing model where the nacelles are close into the fuselage.

I could go on but I think these are the main considerations

Tony

[Fats Flyer]

HiTony,
Thanks once again,when learning new things within the hobby,it can be very daunting if your not sure about it.the help that you give out is a blessing,especially on how quick you return an answer,others should look at your proffessional willingness to help .
I think that within the RCM&E Mag ,there should be articles about all the different subjects within building from scratch and learning new techniques,from what materials ,where to find them,how to make them and finish off a project .
Maybe with this sort of info on a regular basis,modellers will take to building more ,bringing back an art thats becoming lost in the world of a.r.t.fing.
Tony,once again,thanks for your time

vince

[Neil Braiden]

Hi Tony,
Many thanks for the prompt response and advice. Do you ever sleep?
I see from another thread about peoples wish lists for a plan that other people are thinking of multi-engined aircraft. Could you use your powers of persuasion to get someone to write an article for RCME on the subject?
Many thanks.
Neil