David Hayward. Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 I was looking for a four stroke powered aerobatic model, either an ARTF or fairly quick build kit, and came across the Pete Tindall designed Smooth Operator on the Balsa Cabin website; a model essentially based on the CAP 222. Seemed to be just what I was looking for, so put in my order and the kit duly arrived and I have to say, it all looks really nice quality and should be a fairly quick build. According to the instructions the Smooth Operator is a development of the earlier Spin Doctor, the Smooth Operator having a longer fuselage for ‘smoother moveability’. Briefly the kit comprises of: Fuselage all laser cut light ply, Wings, Tailplane, Fin, Front & Rear Deck are Foam Veneered – all good quality, no splitting or rippling of the veneer. There is a very sturdy glass fiber cowl, and undercarriage, a crystal clear canopy, a pair of 3” wheels but no tailwheel, there is also a small accessory pack, instructions and images of the build to compliment the instructions. The website states It’s 62” wingspan and 58” long but doesn't give any indication of a typical weight. Also specifies engines from 90 to 120 4 stroke (instructions say from 52 upwards with the prototype being powered by an MVVS 77) I have an SC 120 looking for a home but do feel that just might be an overkill, a 90 should give good vertical performance I’m thinking. Anyone have any experience with these models with respect to engine size? Here’s all the parts, just need to make a start... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban8 Posted January 6 Share Posted January 6 The SC 120FS is not an overly powerful motor so I doubt if it'd be overkill in this model based on my own experience. Had quite a few of PT's models in our club with all manner and sizes of engines depending on what the owner was looking for in terms of performance - if you have the engine available I'd go ahead and use it if I was you. Good luck with the model, you'll be very pleased with it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted January 6 Share Posted January 6 I have one of these for a NIB Laser 100, which I'm assuming will be just right for the model. Not sure when I'll eventually get round to opening the still-sealed box let alone making a start, but good to see what looks like a very neat kit of parts. Will you be posting your progress here? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hayward. Posted January 6 Author Share Posted January 6 (edited) The instructions start with the flying surfaces, but I’m waiting for some foam friendly cyno to arrive so I’m starting with the fuselage. Popped the various parts out from the laser cut sheets, cleaned them up. Front and rear sections joined and then a doubler overlayed and glued on top, plus longerons also glued to top and bottom edges of fuselage. Edited January 6 by David Hayward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hayward. Posted January 6 Author Share Posted January 6 Well they did say the fuselage build was unconventional, so this is how the firewall is glued in place with just the tail post in position, firewall flat on the bench and fuselage sides then glued to it. By design this is supposed to ensure a straight fuselage, but I dropped a string line down just to be sure. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hayward. Posted January 6 Author Share Posted January 6 Base of front fuselage added and then inside on top of that a light ply plate with a ‘V’ section cut out facing back. This is part of the wing alignment/retention setup which I have never come across before, unique to Pete Tindall perhaps? The ‘male’ element of this arrangement is glued to the lower fuselage sides beneath the wing and you can probably see from the image I have used cling film between the two pieces to ensure they don’t get glued together. A bit further down the line, the under wing section will be cut away from the main fuselage and fixed to the bottom of the wing. The trailing edge of the wing is fixed rather more conventionally with two nylon bolts and fixing for this now glued in position. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hayward. Posted January 6 Author Share Posted January 6 3 hours ago, Jonathan M said: I have one of these for a NIB Laser 100, which I'm assuming will be just right for the model. Not sure when I'll eventually get round to opening the still-sealed box let alone making a start, but good to see what looks like a very neat kit of parts. Will you be posting your progress here? Sorry, just seen your question Jonathan; yes indeed as you can now see, I will post progress as I go... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted January 6 Share Posted January 6 Great David, interesting to see. I should at least extract the instructions from my box for some parallel study! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hayward. Posted January 7 Author Share Posted January 7 Underside of fuselage sheeted back as far as wing trailing edge and undercarriage fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hayward. Posted January 7 Author Share Posted January 7 Next front / rear decking and fin glued into position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hayward. Posted January 7 Author Share Posted January 7 Then came time to detach the bottom section of the fuselage and in the next image you can see the partially cut sides which just need to be completed to release the bottom section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hayward. Posted January 7 Author Share Posted January 7 (edited) Next couple of images hopefully shows how this arrangement works; at the front an overlapping locating tongue also with U/C fixings and at the back this is fixed with two nylon bolts into captive nuts. Edited January 7 by David Hayward. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Foley Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 Nice work. RCMW did a kit review sometime in 2004 I think. I do remember it was powered by a GMS 47 and the reviewer was quite pleased with same. Have one of these on my wish list, so hopefully some day soon. Looking forward to the rest of the build. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel R Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 Quote t’s 62” wingspan and 58” long but doesn't give any indication of a typical weight. Don't know if you've made a choice of motor yet, but that kind of size with a scale-ish Cap/Laser sort of fuselage suggests a 15cc four stroke would be nice if built light. A 20cc four stroke would put the wing loading up a bit, but would still work fine, I think, and probably what I'd go for. Wing area looks decent, so anything in region of 6.5lb to 8lb would be a nice flyer. Swept back wings make it look a bit like a Giles... and for direct comparison, this kit... 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hayward. Posted January 10 Author Share Posted January 10 (edited) Thanks for that 9 minutes ago, Nigel R said: Don't know if you've made a choice of motor yet, but that kind of size with a scale-ish Cap/Laser sort of fuselage suggests a 15cc four stroke would be nice if built light. A 20cc four stroke would put the wing loading up a bit, but would still work fine, I think, and probably what I'd go for. Wing area looks decent, so anything in region of 6.5lb to 8lb would be a nice flyer. Swept back wings make it look a bit like a Giles... and for direct comparison, this kit... Thanks for that Nigel. I have an SC 120 four stroke I am thinking of using for this. Edited January 10 by David Hayward. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 A nice YS 90 FS would power that very nicely with probably more power than a OS 120 fs. Nice looking model / Build 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hayward. Posted January 10 Author Share Posted January 10 2 minutes ago, Engine Doctor said: A nice YS 90 FS would power that very nicely with probably more power than a OS 120 fs. Nice looking model / Build Thank you for the suggestion, I have considered a 90, but I do have an SC 120 looking for a home, so will probably go with this and save the expense of buying another engine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hayward. Posted January 10 Author Share Posted January 10 Fin side blocks added and preparation of flying surfaces gluing balsa leading and trailing edges to wings and tailplane. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel R Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 Coming together fast! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 2 hours ago, David Hayward. said: Thank you for the suggestion, I have considered a 90, but I do have an SC 120 looking for a home, so will probably go with this and save the expense of buying another engine. Hi Dont make the same /similar mistake I made a few years ago. I had a Flair Leo ARTF kit recommended engine was from memory up to 120 Fs. I thought Id fit one of my YS 140's . Suprise suprise the model has a low swept back UC so the 16 inch prop was out of the question. Ended up fitting a 14 x 14 prop to tame the engine that made for some really interesting landings as it still pulled quite a lot of air at idle . Do check out the ground clearance . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hayward. Posted January 10 Author Share Posted January 10 1 hour ago, Engine Doctor said: Hi Dont make the same /similar mistake I made a few years ago. I had a Flair Leo ARTF kit recommended engine was from memory up to 120 Fs. I thought Id fit one of my YS 140's . Suprise suprise the model has a low swept back UC so the 16 inch prop was out of the question. Ended up fitting a 14 x 14 prop to tame the engine that made for some really interesting landings as it still pulled quite a lot of air at idle . Do check out the ground clearance . Will do, thanks for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hayward. Posted Tuesday at 14:15 Author Share Posted Tuesday at 14:15 A few little bits and pieces, but its all progress, tailplane halves butt jointed and glassed over the join. Before joining the two wing panels I made up the servo boxes in each and fitted the control horn mountings into the ailerons. Wing panels came ready to join with correct angle at the root, so packed up at the centre by the specified 6.5mm, added epoxy, weighted and clamped; centre section will be glassed once dry. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murat Kece 1 Posted Tuesday at 18:04 Share Posted Tuesday at 18:04 I like the make up of the horns. Great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hayward. Posted 15 hours ago Author Share Posted 15 hours ago With the wing panels joined and centre section glassed, then set about gluing the fuselage under section to the underside of the wings ensuring all square. Once dry, detached from the fuselage and now have wings with underside of fuselage attached which locates and holds wings in position, very neat design. Tailplane is also now located and glued into it’s pre-cut slot, just a little bit of work to very slightly open out the enclosure and level the tailplane with the wings. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted 15 hours ago Share Posted 15 hours ago I remember these from several years back (10+?). It looks to be a very well designed and produced kit that will result in a stunning model. You're making a neat job. Are the aileron servo mounts precut? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.thumb.JPG.03bb2f460e959cb7df68c482bfeb0b7d.JPG)
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.