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Smooth Operator designed by Pete Tindall


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12 minutes ago, Geoff S said:

I remember these from several years back (10+?).  It looks to be a very well designed and produced kit that will result in a stunning model.  You're making a neat job.  Are the aileron servo mounts precut?

Yes they are, if you look back at image 20, you will see as supplied the servo cutout is oval, so just requires cutting square and fitting balsa to form the box.

 

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15 hours ago, Geoff S said:

I remember these from several years back (10+?).  It looks to be a very well designed and produced kit that will result in a stunning model.  You're making a neat job.  Are the aileron servo mounts precut?

 

I agree with Geoff.  Your presentation is also clear and concise, so a pleasure to follow.

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25 minutes ago, David Foley said:

Just saw the video on your build, very well done. I noticed on photo No.2 above a pattern plane in the back round,

Aerostar ? maybe.

I have a hangar one kits Calypso on the bench which you can probably see in some shots, which is waiting to be covered but I think I'll finish the S.O now I've got into it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

 

Wing tips don’t normally cause me any problems but the kit was supplied with two pretty chunky wing tips which were not long enough to span the chord of the wing and aileron – image 28-b.

 

28-b.thumb.jpg.351e22a93a08f28472f012e0d5c0bc7b.jpg

 

Making another pair of wing tips a suitable length would not be a problem, but I wondered if I was missing something, so spoke with David at Balsa Cabin, who was a little confused himself to begin with, but concluded that the wing tips were not required. The Smooth Operator is based on a CAP 222 which does not have wing tips as such, the wing and aileron just finish flush at the end. Having said all of that I felt I wanted to provide some degree of protection to the ends of the wings and ailerons, which are quite vulnerable being just veneered foam, so added 15mm wide end caps – image 28.

 

28.thumb.jpg.e914eac421401ba4ba87b7037ab45663.jpg

 

At this point I randomly decided it was time to fit the canopy which fits the preformed shape of the front and rear decks very nicely – image 30.30.thumb.jpg.395eb45105fb5b5aa62bb50d69ba68c7.jpg

 

Next up was fitting three servo’s across the fuselage on supplied ply rails and mounting switch onto a piece of lite ply. I fitted 2mm piano wire pushrods to each elevator supported through sections of snake outer at two points along the fuselage and smaller diameter tubes at the point where the rods exit the fuselage. Rudder closed loop system also installed at this time – images 31,32. The open structure of the fuselage certainly made this all very easy to do.

 

31.thumb.jpg.c299705f3d3c848535a88ee4e172adcd.jpg

 

32.thumb.jpg.07a6c9c66ecbd54126579971e35127dc.jpg

 

 

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Nice to see the details on this build. One question: I like the dual elevator pushrods method but how do you get round them poking through when doing the covering? Obviously the 'Y' arrangement is a build in solution so can't be pulled out of the way when covering ... or?

Thanks

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7 minutes ago, Masher said:

Nice to see the details on this build. One question: I like the dual elevator pushrods method but how do you get round them poking through when doing the covering? Obviously the 'Y' arrangement is a build in solution so can't be pulled out of the way when covering ... or?

Thanks

With reference to image 32 the pushrod guide tubes on each side just about exit through the fuselage side, providing enough surface for the covering to stick. When covering I will cut a small slit in the material at the point where the rod exits and slide it into position. Same technique for the rudder closed loop tubes. Hope this helps.

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After much deliberation I have decided to go for a 91 size engine despite having an SC 120 FS looking for a home. I think a 91 will have ample power for this model combined with my very moderate skill level. I found an OS 91FS Surpass on ebay for a good price, which I have now had a chance to check over and run up in my test stand; all seems fine.

 

Time to get it in the model. Now the only detail I have for positioning the engine is actually the engine cowl, nothing in the instructions and no plan to refer to, however, the cowl has a mould line running horizontally around its perimeter. This line locates the vertical height of the engine on the firewall, so nothing more required really – image 33.33.thumb.jpg.bbfc609d996cc9d35eda76a682049e5c.jpg

 

Instructions recommend 2-3 degrees of side thrust and 1 degree of down thrust. I opted for 2.5 degrees side thrust and 1 degree of down thrust. In order to calculate the necessary spacing to achieve the required side & down thrust plus the offset to ensure the crankshaft exits at the centre of the cowl I have produced an Excel ‘tool’ that calculates this for me. A link here to download a copy should this be of interest; note it works best on a PC or laptop, not so good on tablet or phone. https://www.cadmac.co.uk/index_htm_files/Engine%20Mount%20Spacing%20and%20Offset%20Calculator%20-%20Final-v2.xlsx

 

Image 34 shows the engine mount in place, plus blocks fitted for engine cowl fixings; top fixing for cowl actually goes into the engine mount.34.thumb.jpg.f1eedf5c294808f0bdcb90bb633af4c5.jpg

 

With the engine in place I then set about cutting holes in the fairing with careful measurement to hopefully ensure they came out in the right places – image 35.35.thumb.jpg.0adee32690c61b37c97e8cccb06c5548.jpg

 

 

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I'm impressed that you went for an engine at the bottom end of the size range, which should be more than enough to fly smoothly using the full throttle range and the model's own kinetic energy.

 

Useful offset tool too!

 

I see you infilled the lightening-holes in the sides above the wing.  I couldn't work out why they were needed there in the first place.

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10 minutes ago, Jonathan M said:

I'm impressed that you went for an engine at the bottom end of the size range, which should be more than enough to fly smoothly using the full throttle range and the model's own kinetic energy.

 

Useful offset tool too!

 

I see you infilled the lightening-holes in the sides above the wing.  I couldn't work out why they were needed there in the first place.

Yes I feel a 91 will be fine for me and having done a preliminary check on balance with the 91, the extra weight of the 120 (almost 12oz heavier) would have made it more difficult to get the CG as specified.

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Well with construction pretty much complete its time to check the CG. Instructions advise this should be 6” back from the mid-point leading edge, so with that marked on the wing and some card providing protection to the veneer – image 36.

36.thumb.jpg.02c41dd30219bccea90671657691a5ae.jpg

 

Model inverted and placed on CG stand; it balanced about 3mm in front of the marked position, so by the time its covered it will probably be spot on. Very happy I went for the OS 91 as the SC 120 was about 12oz heavier and would have meant weight in the tail to balance – image 37.

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And model now ready for covering and decoration – image 38.

38.thumb.jpg.da5bfb5a8662c99d258a438e2c119273.jpg

 

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