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  • 2 weeks later...
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Tim
Only because old engines were very heavy and not very efficient by modern standards.Hence the short nose length and low wing loading to enable it to fly like free flight with a rudder.actually.( remember Mc Gregor? ) Why not extend the nose by a few inches (centimetres-sorry) & fit a smaller than recommended (at the time) diesel engine by  sticking in a glow .Say maybe a nice 30'ish 4 stroker ?
I'll get mi coat !
G-UMPY
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I agree Myron the vintage models look so serene as they potter around ,but its always a worry when th struggle down the strip and take off at the last moment.At a recent WW1 WW2 meeting at our club a member arrived with a beautiful Focker D7 .He had saerched and bought a vintage side valve 4 stroke,sounded gorgeous but the take off area was to short and it struggled along at walking pace.After some fettling it took off and virtually hovered going no where fast.A lot of money invested but not a great succes
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Myron /Steve
 
Sacrilege Myron  ????  I think it its innovation to modify a proven design and find it flies well.
Steve   Where did you get the idea from to fit flaps and ailerons (hehehe ) I hope she flies as well as mine.
Had Mr Heliguy fly mine on the buddy box a couple of days ago and it flew like a dream
Jim
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My Flair Junior 60 with SC 52 4stroke flys on 1/4 throttle, you can almost count the revs.
Originally had 11 x 6 prop bot even on idle would not slow enough to land and had to cut the engine.
 Fitted 12 x 3.5 this slowed it down just right.
Should be great with electric as she flys well on such low power.
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     the super sixty is progressing very well. I now have a basic airframe on the bench just needs finishing off ,bits and pieces such as skid and a planked hatch for the nose end.I also need to make a wire u/cart, then the good bits covering and finishing.    .The power train is as follows.   Motor is Hi Model 2814-8,1000KV from BRC, £27.  Hi Model 40amp controller BRC, again £ 25.  The draw is estimated at about 30amps  35 tops on a 12 x 6 prop.So any battery pack 3s of 2000 upwardsshoud be ok. This is yet to be tried on a wattmeter but i dont see any problems. J.R. radio on 2.4 using 2 std servos.   A photo or 2 may come later,but my P.C. skills are not that great. My Son says it should be no more difficult than my computer radio and i have no problems with that. THIS ONE IS 3 CHANNEL AS PER THE ORIGIONAL.. More to come as i progress.
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  • 11 months later...
Hi All,
 
Does anyone know where I can get hold of a complete kit or plan with part kit (plan, formers, ribs ect) for a super sixty. Having just left hospital it would be a great way of getting back into things with a steady building project, and I already have some period engines that would do the trick.
 
Thanks,
 
Chris.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

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Peter...what do you mean?? Surely pushrods would link the rudder & elevator to their respective servos perfectly......not sure what you mean about the tank...fuel tank?? Surely your local model shop can supply one. If it needs a new home I'm sure I could take it off your hands......
 
Chris, Ben Buckle do complete kits for the Super 60......3 channel (the original) here & the 4 channel version here
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Hi Steve
 
I bought the kit but had trouble withe the pushrods cating on the fuz and not sure how to make them so they are not to floppy and don't catch. I bought the kit but it did not have the tank, as it is a round one. I tried the slightly larger square one, which was too large. Perhaps you can make me an offer. I live in Milton Keynes
 
Peter 
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Peter, use 6mm dowel & they should be fine....might the SLEC pushrod fuselage transfer linkage do the job (click here & scroll down) or failing that could you use snakes perhaps...secured at both ends?
 
For the tank its probably just a matter of searching around......round ones are certainly available.....
 
Much as I would like a Super 60 I don't think I could find the hangar room right now!!!!
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Peter, why do you need a small round tank? Is it to fit a hole in a former? By altering the shape of the hole,  you should be able to get a 4 ounce SLEC tank to fit. The SLEC tank is square in cross section and fitted with a blue front in this size. A 4 ounce tank is ample for a 25 two-stroke or 40 four-stroke.
 
Myron, I don't think that EFneeds to extend the nose on his Super 60 as it already has quite a long one. Not getting your Super 60s mixed up with your Junior 60s are you?

Edited By David Davis Telemaster Sales UK on 29/04/2010 19:37:52

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  • 4 months later...
mmmm  I am very interested in seeing this through ,  I have a Ben Buckle Mini Super , Wings all done ,  main fusalage taking shape nicely  .
I was intending to I.C. it but just found a new , very local and handy club that fly Electric only .
This set me thinking about converting my Mini Super , but as I am fairly new to Electric I would need help in choosing the right Motor , Controler , Battery pack etc ..
 
Steve , You mention 250 Wats of power , I have an idea what it means ..just not sure what you do to achieve it ..
 
p.s. I have done a Multiplex Fox conversion which flys fantastic , I did my own thing with how things are fitted out but copied other fox cenversions with regards motor and things .. I am so impressed with it that it has give nme more food for thought regarding Electric v I.C.
 
 
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Hi Trevor....yes I think its about 250 watts & flys very nicely on about half throttle but with some in reserve....feels like a good 15 up front!!!
 
250watts is a motor & ESC (electronic speed controller) that will handle a current of 25Amps on a 3S Lipo battery (this type of battery will show about 10 volts under load). Watts equals volts x amps so 25 x 10 = 250watts.....
 
I use this motor in my Mini Super...its rated to about 350watts but I wanted some "headroom" in case my nominal 250watts wasn't enough. I found an 8x6 prop was enough to generate the 250watts & she flys just fine on this....if I wanted or needed more I could use a bigger prop & this would increase the power available. I have a 40A ESC & use a 2200mAh 3S Lipo battery which gives me a comfortable 10 minute flight. Theres lots of motor/ESC/battery combos out there that would do the same.....
 
If you're new to the sparky side then take a look at some of Timbos guides in the Electric section for a good overview......I could write reams here but Timbo covers it all very well....probably better than me in fact!!!
 
If you want to know more or are after some set up advise then please feel free to PM me or simply post back here....very happy to help if I can.....
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My super sixteee has been completed for some time now ,and has been flown many times It created a lot of interest. at the Chester clubs fly -in. This model has turned out to be a real gem,it will fly in all weather conditions,handles very well on rudder elevator and throttle only .It is built exactly to Ben Buckle,s plan.The only changes made was to the front formers in order to bring the prop to the same potition as it would be with an IC engine.the front decking before the windscreen is a removable hatch. The power train is a Turigy 36-42 motor 60 amp controller ads a 4000 3s lipo-lightmax on a 12x6 APC prop.Colour is see thru gold and matt blue solarfilm yes matt, what a performer and a fly anywhere model,im fact it flew at the Rhyl fun fly on Sunday. BRILLIANT.
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  • 7 years later...

Ok, let's see if time will provide some answers for today. I am about to convert a well made Super Sixty, Solatex covered, so not the lightest but not heavy. Motor esc and cell numbers to fly efficiently with low draw please? When I say low draw, my Mercury Matador is using a motor equivalent to a 20 if and runs on3 cells of only 1300 math and poodles beautifully for 20 minutes without over discharge of the cells. I would like to replicate this with my Super Sixty. Cheers.SM

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