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Long grass (1ft and growing !!!!) and landing ripmax spitfire/mustang


Merlin spit
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i want to buy one of these but i am concerned how there hold up to the belly landings on the long grass ,ive been flying a hack (foam cessana with wheels removed ) fine so far ,would i better buying one of the parkzone models(i like the look of the corsair) for this field .
 
 
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no im not allowed to cut the grass i did ask even just for a small strip but  the answer was no and i didnt want push my luck having got permission to fly there for free.
 
i not worried about lossing them ,more damaging them while belly landing ,ive seen them land fine on short grass  ,and am confident i can bring them down a fairly gentle speed with in 15- 20 yardsof me, i know they glide on a bit
 
 
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thanks for the good replys guys ,good idea with taping the leading edge on the foamies ,i havnt made my mind up wheather to get parkzone corsair or one of the ripmax models .
 
ive read your theads kelvin on the spitfire and 109 ,have you found you need to add any protection to these planes ,your field looks much the same as mine ,apart from it been invaded by buttercups,also how do they handle the wind ,the field im flying even seems windy on the calmest of days ,i think its due to being next to a field with a big slope ,i may have to take up gliding sometime.
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Austen, I have the Ripmax Spit with a 450w brushless up front and it is the finest flying models I have. It looks awesome in th air, truely cutting a dash amongst all the other leccy and foamy models. It copes well with wind as with a 3S lipo up front it has a bit of weight to it. It is also a pussy cat at low speed so landings are a doddle.
 
BUY THE SPIT!!!!!! Sorry did I say that out loud?
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the spit is my first choice never had one ,have had lots of low wing practice ,just heard the usaual scare stories of flying spitfires and thought  i might be better of with another plane as my first warbird ie mustang ,corsair  
 
it maybe il end up with whats in stock at my local shop ,if i dare venture in tomorow
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ok thanks guys il be getting the spitfire next week,what prop did you guys use ?
 
i was thinking 10*6 with a 1000kv 605w peak motor and 60a esc with a 3s2200 20c lipo ,i think it maybe to much but ive got a thottle and would like to use this setup in a bigger model at a latter date .
 
looking at the figures my self (beginner ) maybe a bigger battery would help as 20c * 2.2amps =44a  giving 44a * 11.1v=488watts plenty for the spit but only giving 3minutes at full thottle .if the 10*6 prop only draws say 35a then 35*11.1v =388 and would be better for the battery and increase flight time
 
any thoghts much appreciated good or bad
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Austen. Firstly, the a bigger capacity  battery, although maybe holding slightly better voltage under load will not make any real difference to the power / wattage. This is determined by the kv of the motor and the prop used on a particular cell count ( voltage)
Furthermore, you will likely not be holding 11.1V under load - expect more like 10.5 - 10 8V at the most.
If, by bigger you actually mean higher voltage battery - then yes the watts will increase, but so too will the RPM, and current draw, so unless you increase the capacity as well, then duration will reduce, not increase.
HTH - if not, please respond with speific questions and details.
 
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yes tim thats helps a lot ,i think il have get the motor and esc and a wattmeter and have a test run building up the thottle gently to see what happens ,the motor suggests to use a 10*6 ,11*5,13*8 props turnigy aerodrive motor if i start with the smallest prop and see what that draws ,this should give me a idea of what battery to use in the long run ?
 
could i use 2 x 2200 20c in parralell  ,would they fit / be to heavy in the spitfire ?
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Austin I have bought a very similar motor for my Ripmax sipt. I have not go round to putting it together yet so I will be looking closely at how yors performs. I note that the motor is 45A max so will only give 605w on  4S. The max efficient current is in the 22-35A range so that is where I will be looking to prop mine for.
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hi bruce ,i was going to get the same motor as youve got ,(i might get one aswell as the aerodrive at that price) .the reason i ordered the slighlty bigger one was i thought i could use it to convert a 40ic plane at some point in the future and indeed run it on a 4s .but i thoght i could still use it in the  spitfire for the  time being on a 3s .im new to electics so il have to wait and see when it all turns up .
 
when ive got some more spare cash i think i will get the motor youve got as well a few 3200mahs 3s batteries ,im amazed at how cheap electric setups can be ,but that just makes me wants  to spend more  . ive been able to fly nearly every day since i bought my first electric model ,ic has been put on the back burner for now as i have to travel a hour to fly ic but 5mins walk to the foot long grass as mentioned above to fly electric
 
as soon as the stuff turns up il post the figures  hopefully it will come before saturday as thats when il be getting the spitfire
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ill have to wait and see when everything arives ,ive still got to get a esc from somwhere maybe hk again but they were out iof stock on the turnigy 60a plush .
 
ill be using a spekrum ar500 with this set up and was wondering about the brown out issue ,if i get a esc with a 5v/3a swithing bec built in ,3 servos should be ok ? 
 
hc have got one of these but would this be a bit over the top for the spit ,i could use it in a bigger model at a latter date and i guess im  less likey to fry it .also a ubec built in does that mean you have to use a reciever battery pack
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3 servos should be fine on a decent switching mode BEC. The 80A ESC you linked to is a bit OTT for this model IMO - it will be quite large and relatively heavy.
Have you tried Rob @ Giant Cod or Grant @ foamyjets for an ESC?
If an ESC has a BEC built in you DONT need a seperate battery for the radio.
If however its an OPTO ESC, then you will need to power the radio seperately with either a stand alone UBEC ( my preference actually ) or a seperate battery.
Please check your AR500is the latest instant reacting quick connect version - many of them are STILL being shipped with older firmware that takes several seconds to reconnect in the event of a brown out.

Edited By Timbo - Moderator on 01/06/2009 18:43:45

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