Covering with Solarfilm

[ajreynolds]

Greetings all.  I'm starting to cover a plane with silver SolarFilm for the first time, but am having problems with adhesion.  I've used So-Lite, Monokote, and Ultracote before, without any problems like this, but the Solarfilm just doesn't want to work.  The instructions say adhesion is around 210F and shrink is around 250F.  I found that I couldn't get it to stick to the balsa until I turned up to around 280F.  I haven't been able to find any temperature, low or high, that makes it stick well to itself at an overlap, it just pulls right off.  Yes, I did remove the backing...

 

Does anyone have any tips for using this?  I've posted on RC Groups, but without much response.  I figure since SolarFilm is a UK product and isn't used extensively here in the USA, I might have better luck posting over here on a UK site.

 

Any advise at all would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Andy

 

[Hamish]

Not an expert but now starting to get good results.   Unfortunately my iron does not have temperature indication scale but is graded up to 3.  To attach the Solarfilm, I set it at 1 1/4 which is quite a low heat.  To shrink it then goes up to 2 1/2 and is quite hot.

 

Is it possible you are using to high a setting to initial fix?

 

There are a few videos on U tube and I think Solarfilm also have a demo

 

Hope this helps

[TonyS]

Hi Andy,

I've only ever used Solarfilm and only had problems at the very beginning. I guess like most of these things, each make just takes some getting used to. Hamish is right, Solarfilm's site has some good videos.

All I would say is that I tend to find that when you think it hasn't stuck often it has - I've never had any come off when it shouldn't - obviously it won't beat a determined tug with the fingers but then it won't have to experience these forces in day to day use.

In really difficult places where I struggle to get the iron in, I do cheat and use Solartrim to  stick it down. As it's the exact colour match it works really well.

Tony 

[kc]

The inventor and proprietor of Solarfilm, Derek Hardman. used to demonstrate how to get the right temperature for your iron.  He used a small square of Solarfilm and observed how it wrinkled.  This is shown on the instruction label and a photo is at  www.solarfilm.co.uk/instructions.html  on the Solarfilm second part PDF file.

 

The Solarfilm company sell an etch primer called Prymol which is painted on the overlaps ( on the glossy bit not the colour& adhesive bit )  and left to dry.  After about 10 minutes its dry and you iron the overlap film down.  Magic stuff!  

Works well on used models to repair the bits that come loose.

Edited By kc on 24/08/2009 10:13:24

Edited By kc on 24/08/2009 10:47:08

[ajreynolds]

Thanks for the responses.  I've tried the trick as shown in the instructions to get the temperature, but couldn't get it to work right.  As soon as I put the film on my iron, the edges curl a little bit and the rest of the square gets lifted off the surface of the iron.  Maybe I'll try again tonight, I'm pretty frustrated with it though. 

 

As far as the Prymol, do you have to use it when doing overlaps?  I've never had to use anything extra to do overlaps with other brands of covering. 

 

Tony, it's definitely not stuck.  Any tension at all peels it off of the other layer of film.  I'm sure it would pull apart even if I tried to shrink it.

 

Andy

 

[kc]

No, Prymol is only optional you do not have to use it.  In fact very few Solarfilm users have even heard of it but it is mentioned in the Solarfilm PDF instructions as above.

I used it for the first time recently to put a patch over Solarspan and to repair lifting of a joint on a SolarKote  compound curve wing tip on a well used model.  ( I mean badly used and abused model! )   Excellent result.

I prefer Solarspan which is a little thicker but hardly any heavier.

 

Solarfilm can be stuck down when used as trim by activating the adhesive with solvent such as celulose thinner.  This would prove whether it is dud material.  I have never heard of a faulty batch of genuine Solarfilm but years ago there was some imitation sold by the length without label that was dud.  This was often metallic  colours and I had some gold which was useless, but it was definately not genuine Solarfilm.

 

 

So there is nothing wrong with proper Solarfilm and it is not tricky either.. It is fair to say that Solarspan is a little easier to use because it is thicker and there is some difference in the layers.   When I built my first radio model in 1984 I used Solarfilm and had no trouble producing a fairly good model first time which lasted for 141 flights and the wing still exists.  It is still looks to be in flyable condition after 25 years!

Edited By kc on 24/08/2009 17:37:41

Edited By kc on 24/08/2009 17:40:39

[Peter Miller]

Personally I have found that Solarfilm Supershrink  Polyester is the best of all the Solarfilm films. Not heat sensitive and doesn't sag in the sun. Sticks better that the others.

 

How old is your silver film.

[ajreynolds]

I purchased the film back in March of this year, but there's no telling how long the vendor had it on the shelf of course.

 

I believe I have authentic Solarfilm.  I purchased it from Stevens AeroModel here in the USA.  They are a very reputable dealer.  They market it under their own name of AeroFILM, but the website says it is Solarfilm.  It didn't include an instruction sheet with it, but it did have a label saying "Made in England".

 

Andy

 

[ken anderson.]

hello aj-when i started with solarfilm-it was like giving the red indians whisky and rifles-but-i followed the instructions on the wrapper and once done a couple of times-bingo on it went-this was using her indoor's ordinary iron.....also check out solarfilm product's web site.......

 

  ken anderson.....

Edited By ken anderson. on 24/08/2009 20:05:20

[Former Member]

[This posting has been removed]

[Erfolg]

Although contentious, I find that Solar film is not that wonderful.

 

There seems to be an issue with the edges peeling back with time.

 

It sags more than many other films, if it is subsequently heated ie sunlight.

 

The margin for error regarding the temperature for shrinking, can be apparently fine,

 

It does not seem to adhere with the tenacity of the Solar film of 20 years ago.

 

There are apparently better products on the market, other modellers use them, although some are even more expensive.

 

[ajreynolds]

I went back and tried again.  Took the hot sock off my iron so the scrap would sit directly on the iron.  At about 210F, the scrap wrinkled slowly, just like in the instructions and the video.  When I tried to stick it down at that temperature though, it peeled right back off of the balsa.  Trying to stick an overlap together is hopeless.

 

I like the weight savings of Solarfilm over other regular weight films, but if it's this hard to get a decent result, it's not worth the effort. 

 

Andy

 

[Dennis Jones]

Hi Andy

 I use solarfilm on all my powered gliders on open strutures and edges of the fuz I allways use Balsaloc it drys in mins, and if you use it on the overlaps, any that ozes out can be wiped off with a damp cloth. I hope this helps

Dennis

[Peter Miller]

Years ago I did have some adhesion problems with Solarspan but never since.

 

Erfolg, Use the Supershrink, it doesn't sag in the sun.

 

I would suggest sending a sample back to Solarfilm, they may be ableo to tell you what is wroing, you could then get a refund from your modelshop if it was faulty.

[Erfolg]

I do not think I have Solar film that is faulty, as I have many remnants (for repairs etc.) which are broadly similar. I just believe that the adhesive layer, is either thinner, or less tenacious in its adhesive properties.

 

I have used Balsaloc, which i initially purchased for Coverite. I use so little that the contents go off in the jar. Worst still, my local model shop, cannot afford to stock it and many other low volume sales products. Even his covering, is a limited range of Solar film.

 

I suspect that the makers of Solar Film, have either lost there drive to improve and develop their products, or a younger generation have taken on the running of the business and lack the drive, innovation and will to be better, that  the founders often have.

 

There is plenty of opportunity to move from an adequate product, that trails its competitors to being World Class, the product of choice. Rather than the BL/Rover of film coverings.

[kc]

Perhaps I have got this wrong , but the original problem was with a product marked Aerofilm and yet it is Solarfilm that is getting bad publicity from this discussion!

 

If it is not in a packet marked Solarfilm then it might be anything.  Why rubbish a reputable  English company.

 

 

[Erfolg]

The packets have a Solarfilm wrapper.

 

I want UK companies to be the best. In my life I have seen many major UK brands and industries all but disappear.  To survive never mind flourish, you need to be ahead of the game.

 

As one who bought UK cars Triumph, Leyland, once you realise that that expensive foreign product, starts first time everytime, does not need repairing every week, has a level of finish that you were promised, and  take some beating. In my case BMW and Porsche. When I think how my TR would break down, I could cry.

 

No, I want Solafilm to be the best. But I will no longer pretend that made in the UK, makes something better than it is.

 

Erfolg

[kc]

I don't think it says anywhere here that it has a Solarfilm wrapper.  It is said to be Aerofilm.

 

To continue your BL / Rover analogy this 'Solarfilm' problem when its labelled Aerofilm  is like complaining to Rover that your Hindustan car is faulty!

 

Edited By kc on 25/08/2009 14:09:20

Edited By kc on 25/08/2009 14:17:30

[ajreynolds]

Mine was not in a Solarfilm wrapper, but that doesn't prove anything.  Just like Coverite Microlite is So-Lite repackaged in a Coverite wrapper.  The vendor claims that the AeroFilm product is Solarfilm and the specs match Solarfilm's.  I'm waiting for confirmation from them about this.  I don't know of any other sources of Solarfilm in the USA.

 

I have no desire to give Solarfilm bad press, I was simply looking for some help with a problem I had.  I really like their So-Lite product, but was looking for something more opaque for this project.  I have been in contact with Solarfilm and will be sending them a sample this morning.  Hopefully that will turn up some information, whether it's my film that's defective or I am.

 

Andy

 

[001]

I have used Solarfilm, including silver for many years with no problems at all. I suspect that the product being used is either sub-standard or very old.

 

I once bought one metre of Oracover and half of it had no adhesive on it at all, it was the end of a roll, the German manufacturers sent me TEN metres in compensation. So if in doubt return it.

[kc]

From the beginning you have said it is Solarfilm that seems not to work whereas in reality it is Aerofilm that wont work.   If you had stated Aerofilm at the beginning there might have been other comments.

The Aerofilm  website does mention Solarfilm but now solarfilm  has almost become a generic term like hoover or thermos.

 

I

You should have given the bad publicity to Aerofilm and Stevens.

Why didnt you return the suspect material to Stevens ?

 

Anyway I hope the comments received help you whoever made the film.

[Peter Miller]

I wondered why you were having trouble as I never have any problems. (Apart from the old Solarspan years ago,) 

 

I don't know who makes Aerofilm. I do know that it isn't Solarfilm.

 

Pity that Solarfilm got miss named here, some people may latch onto this because they don't read things properly.

 

 

[Erfolg]

KC

 

My BMC/Leyland/Rover experience was with cars, pretty much the same price range as BMW. They certainly did not give our cars away. They relied on our patriotism, whilst foreign markets started to shun them, firstly the USA.

 

In the case of Solar Film, it is about the lowest cost film in the model shop, which is encouraging, but not cheap. My local model shop closed, the nearest just about hangs on. I buy far more on the internet now. Like some others within my club, I will probably buy low cost film from either GC or Hobby City, at my next purchase. If this purchase is satisfactory, I could well be another ex-Solar Film buyer.

 

For me Solar film should not lift at the edges, and it should not sag in moderate sunlight. I have used the light weight version (LightSpan?), which I found to be even poorer.

 

Just as our competitors in other fields have improved quality and sometimes at reduced cost, So should Solar film, do not take the home market for granted. If the quality can be improved, a premium can be charged and we will all aspire to use that brand, even display the logo with pride.

 

Erfolg 

[kc]

The instructions for Solarfilm etc suggest using Prymol etch primer on the overlaps.  Did you follow these instructions?  Did it pull away after using Prymol?

 

Peter M also suggested using Solarfilm Supershrink if you want a newer type of film.

[ajreynolds]

I heard from Bill Stevens of Stevens Aeromodel this morning.  AeroFilm is Solarfilm.  Peter, perhaps you're thinking of AeroKote, which is by SIG.  In any case, he recommended roughing the film at the edge where I'm going to overlap with some 00 steel wool.  I tried that, but no joy.  Bill is going to try a sample today to see if it may be a bad batch.  I've also sent a sample to Solarfilm to test, but that will take several days to arrive in the mail. 

 

I've searched, but can't find Prymol here in the USA.  Even if I could, I wouldn't want to spend the extra money unless I was sure it would fix the problem.

 

Andy