ajreynolds Posted August 26, 2009 Author Share Posted August 26, 2009 I've also received confirmation from Solarfilm Ltd that Stevens sells authentic Solarfilm and that the lot number on the cardboard roll matches silver Solarfilm, so I do have the real thing. Now I guess I just have to wait and see what they say when they test the sample I sent. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 I have a correspondent who claims to have had similar problems. I told him to send samples to Soalrfilm. He never did but knowing him that isn't surprising. As I say once again, never had any problems with Solarfilm or Supershrink. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 To show that Prymol makes overlaps easy even on Solarfilm repairs I took a few before and after photossee here It is surprising that the Solarfilm instructions advise using Prymol but the Aerofilm instructions don't mention it. Obviously if it is dud film then it is of no advantage, but why quibble at spending a little more to buy the recommended product?Edited By kc on 26/08/2009 18:50:46 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajreynolds Posted August 27, 2009 Author Share Posted August 27, 2009 Well, one problem I have with having to use Prymol is that I have never had to use anything extra with other types of films to get good bonding to the frame and overlaps. The other problem is that, after searching the web, I simply can't find a vendor here in the USA. Maybe it's sold under a different name like AeroFilm. From what I've read, Prymol contains toluene, which is flammable and toxic. It's doubtful I would be able to have it shipped from England. It would probably be much to expensive to ship one little can anyway. I've got some lacquer thinner that contains toluene. Maybe I'll try that tonight just to see if it makes a difference or if it simply melts through the film... Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted August 28, 2009 Share Posted August 28, 2009 No, as I said before, Prymol is not essential for Solarfilm but it makes a better bond on many films. Most people have never used it on Solarfilm. I think using Prymol will make a film covered model longer lasting. Of course Prymol is only used to etch the plastic etc and not used on balsa! It would be quite surprising if Stevens do not sell Prymol which is recommended in the Solarfilm instructions along with Clearcoat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajreynolds Posted August 28, 2009 Author Share Posted August 28, 2009 I tried the lacquer thinner. As expected, it didn't help. It did melt the adhesive off the back of the film though. I can't find Prymol on the Stevens website, or anywhere else in the USA. I've sent an email to Stevens asking if he carries it and I'm just not finding it. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajreynolds Posted September 3, 2009 Author Share Posted September 3, 2009 I heard from Solarfilm today. The sample I sent them to test wasn't up to their standards, so they are sending me a replacement roll. I also heard from Bill Stevens at Stevens Aeromodel. Based on the description of the problem, he is also sending me a replacement roll. I didn't expect to get two replacements, but I won't complain. Both companies have provided excellent, fast support. I'm very pleased with both of them. I suspect that when I receive my replacements, I'll find that I have no more problems. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 AJ I am pleased that your issues have been resolved. My own have not. Again Solarfilm has decided to peel back, this time by a significant amount. I have photographed it and intend posting it in the next few days, along with an image of a similar pack, bought at the same time. I am not a happy bunny at all. Erfolg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 Have you read what I posted last week about repairing Solarfilm? see Solarfilm Overlaps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted September 4, 2009 Share Posted September 4, 2009 The link did not work for me. I will see if I can find the post. It is not just the overlap that came loose, where it was attached(or not) to the balsa, came loose. Erfolg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted September 4, 2009 Share Posted September 4, 2009 I cut and pasted the link so I don't know why it fails to work.It was in the Building Kits& Plans forum as Sealing Solarfilm Overlaps.Solarfilm Overlaps It shows an experiment in repairing an old oil soaked wing which I did last week and photographed before and after. Edited By kc on 04/09/2009 10:32:56Edited By kc on 04/09/2009 10:36:42Edited By kc on 04/09/2009 10:40:19 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 As promised, a picture, of Solarfilm, which has peeled back, during flight. This very nearly came to a crash, as the model responded very poorly to control inputs. First one panel peeled, and now the second panel. I have stuck it back on using a surgestion from a club member and a thread contributer, with PVA Resin W. Allowing the glue to dry on the wood, then ironing on. It seems to work! To say i am very dissapointed with the poor quality of Solarfilm, would understate, how I really feel. It will be the budget stuff from GC as my next film purchase. Erfolg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Smalley Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 i too have used numerous films and solarfilm is as good as any other and better than most, i recently purchased some film from a reputable supplier as i was told its the same stuff they use on the world models range of kits, so i bought it, i can honestly say its the worst i have ever come across the sensativity to temperature is far too narrow it does not stick at all to other films and the adhesive of its own is rubbish as well, so back to solarfilm and profilm for me Edited By Timbo - Moderator on 10/09/2009 17:05:39 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Smalley Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 use prymol for overlaps on solarfilm guys !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 Lee please read this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralph Yeates Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 I have used Solafilm as this is what the local model shop supplies as he is a tied model shop to a big UK distributor and stocks what he is told to stock. I find it at best adiquate but no where as good as other films that are avaliable. Ultracote gets my vote it sticks better goes round corners better and does not get those annoying wrinkles. I know there are peolpe that love the stuff but I am not one of them.I'll try the PVA trick as the area that needs to be covered is at the front and seems have residue in the wood from the engine. or Prymol if I can get hold of it locally otherwise I'll get a proper film that does what it is supposed to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Cole Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 Your supplier (Stevens Aero) sells a film adhesive which it recommends for stopping film seams lifting Stevens SIG STIX IT The also sell Balsaloc, but are out of stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernie Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 Hi Ralph, Solartex is much easier to apply, if you are happy with the fabric type finish, Also, it is matt in it's natural state. For a gloss finish, I find Profilm the easiest to apply. But, you can get excellent results, with Solarfilm, it's all about fastidious preparation, and following the instructions, especially regarding iron temperature ernie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 If anyone needs proof of how good Solarfilm can be in the right hands...then look no further than this. Phil has obviously mastered this, and I assure you it looks even better in the flesh. Even the compound curves etc are superb...not a wrinkle or a crease anywhere.You would swear blind it was gloss paint - simply excellent, which proves that the material / product itself is not the issue....its the way its used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Smalley Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 used solarfilm for years and if applied correctly you get a great finish same for all films, the only poor one i have come across is the film used on world models stuff and thats only because of lack of adhesion to itself (on overlaps etc) and the dark colurs really wrinkle badly in the heat!! Far worse than any other film i have ever used, all the rest really good, still use solarfilm for the majority just on cost grounds Edited By Lee Smalley on 05/10/2009 21:31:00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 I've still got lots of old Solarfilm in stock, the remnants of material used to build former models. I found that the covering would ripple in strong sunshine. I still use this old stock because I'm on a limited budget. Maybe I was doing something wrong but years ago I bought a German product, Profilm, sold as Oracover in the USA and elsewhere. I've never had any trouble using this product so continue to buy it in preference to Solarfilm. I understand that Solarfilm have changed their formula and it is now much more like Profilm today, but I'll stick with what's tried and trusted. On the other hand I use Solartex on most of my larger models and would recommend the product unreservedly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 If memory serves me correctly Derek Hardman of Solarfilm advised during his demonstrations of covering at the Sandown Show years ago that the rippling in sunshine was due to excessive heat used during covering. Especially heat guns are the culprit. I have never experienced this rippling probably due to following his advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Smalley Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 i have a seagull yak 54 covered in oracover the black wrinkels just as bad as any solarfilm model i have ever had, so that argument really does not hold water! sorry ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 It works for me Lee. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Campbell Posted October 25, 2009 Share Posted October 25, 2009 Have used solarfilm and tex...... never had an issue. Would love to try profilm as I hear it gets around curves even easier. The only time i ever used prymol was to join two colours over open structure. If it had been on a foam wing, i.e fully supported underneath, I wouldn't have used it at all. I have generally found it to be pretty forgiving on heat settings, but does leave traces of its colour on the sole of the iron. Prob just my bad technique Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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