Terry Whiting Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 Peter, As for B1 & B2 check the wing X section on the plan. I built the wing, but I didn't go for the CNC wood pack. I didn't make a B1-B2, but in place of, I made a 3mm ply brace which fitted in between (central) the main spars of both wing panels. Personally I do not think your hatch idea will give you the access you are looking for. I have gone for external closed loop (pull-pull) on both controls, and as for the tail wheel mine will be self castering as all my tail wheel models are. Pleased to hear you have got cracking again with the project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Laverick Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 Peter, You need to cut two b1's and b2's as they go both on top and bottom and are the main wing braces so glue them in well. If anyone wants some aluminium for the undercarriage pm me and I'll send you some for free, so long as you pay the postage? I'm off on holiday for a week tomorrow so it won't be until I get back, Regards John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 All these freebie requests it feels like we have become a small family I was looking through the only picture we actually have taken of the lysander with a good engine shot, might try and make a detailed engine moulding for it! Granddad used to work on bristol mercury engines because he worked on bristol blenheims I am really annoyed i haven't got to see the lysander fly yet Slowly but surely redoing that bloomin mistake on the elevator and rudder, might make a test contorl surface for marios hinge idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Whiting Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 Hi John, That is extremely kind of you, I would like to take up your offer. PM me your address, and I will put a cheque in the post . I was going to make the UC from piano wire for the simple reason I couldn't aquire the Aluminium sheet . Regards Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Whiting Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 Peter, Mario's hinge is a true scale job, take you time in making the test piece as it's function depends on the precise hinge position. Robart do two sizes, you will require the smaller of the two which are 50mm. I hope you remembered hinge blocks inside both fin and tail plane as these hinges need an anchor point. On the fullsize Lysander it's only the leading edges of the rudder and elevators which are rounded, then the hinge gaps a shrouded with screwd sheeting to the fin and tail plane. This gives smooth air flow over the gap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 Been having a go on the ladder won't solder with an iron, gonna try a torch tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Ireland Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 Torches aren't very hot though Peter! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 Oh haha doug i am worried that it might light the MDF in the jig, dad reassures me it wont! anyway, i finally got round to updating my thread! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supermario Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 Hi Peter About the B1 and B2 B1 is in top and B2 is in bottom. If you notice at the front elevation/section of the plan that is shown. The B2 is a little larger than B1 and that caused for the position of the ribs. Mário Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 Thank you for the clarification mario! Due to my inexperience with the postal service, i am not particularly aware of how much it would cost to post some aluminium for the U/C to hertfordshire, i am sure i would be able to afford it, could just get dad to pay it over paypal or something Slightly off topic: This is my workshop/bench/bedroom interweb hub which i shall probably be using to forum while i am building Its an old Toshiba Satellite Pro A30 with the screen removed. Heres how far i am with the wings: Not quite sure how the hell Tony managed to pin through the Obechi spars! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 Thanks mario, received the lenses today! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Len Martyn Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 i intend to build the lysander from the free plans , but can anyone tell me why it states on the plans the length is 49.5" !! but the drawing is 39"!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Whiting Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 Hi Len, I wondered that, but when I worked out the actual fuselage length from the full size figure, it should have been 40.5". I have built mine from the pullout plan, but not precisely to the stated wood sizes. Best of luck with your build,....... and a HAPPY NEW YEAR to everyone. Edited By Terry Whiting on 01/01/2010 08:04:31 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Dorrell Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 Hello Terry, Sorry to be late answering. As well as building the Toot I have been encouraged to run a blog on it. I was going to use Photobucket. but sorted out the way through my My Account, My Photos. Do you keep your photos on your disc in the PC ? I keep mine in My Documents/My Pictures. Make sure they are small enough. I edit mine to a size suitable for printing ; approximately 8" x 6". I have a programme called Serif Photoplus which is like Adobe Photoshop (but a lot less expensive). Any way, once they are sized, I open Export Optimiser and convert them to jpg's. They are then acceptable in your My Account and from there can be inserted into your replies. Well, I must get on with the Toot. I do something virtually every day, but am slow, careful and I mostly use aliphatic glue which I give plenty of time to dry. Cheers. Alan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Whiting Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 Hi Alan, I use Picasa 3 for all my pictures, and I'm hoping eventually to be able include some pictures of my Lysander build to this topic which Jim so kindly started. By the way Jim how is the build coming on??? Edited By Terry Whiting on 02/01/2010 17:15:34 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rookie jim Posted January 3, 2010 Author Share Posted January 3, 2010 Hi Terry,Not much progress I am afraid. Since my last post (15th december) i have sanded the longerons as you suggested but thats it. Xmas has got in the way. A couple of days after my last posting my son and his girlfriend came over from Hong Kong for xmas. still the new year is here and i hope to make a start but the cold weather makes my garage work area very uninviting ( if thats a word). I have just bought a heater for it so there's no excuse now. its all systems go. need to do the hatch and then i think i will start on the tail section. still deciding whether to cover the front now or leave it as mario has suggested. jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Whiting Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 Hi Jim. No, a cold garage can certainly deter ones enthusiasm, I'm extremely lucky to have a well insulated modelling den which only requires a 600W oil rad to keep it aired. I'm as you, have my Granddaughter and Greatgrand children from Australia staying with my wife and I for a month which means little will be done on the model. I think I will need a month to recuperate once they have gone home, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supermario Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 Hello all After a short Xmas and new year break, that finish with the usual new year flight in the first day of the year. here we are ready to continue the challenge of Lizzie building. I received today the laser cut parts. The undercarriage that I ordered to be made in 3mm aluminium that weights 197,5 gr and in 1,5mm stell with holes to reduce the weight that going around 200 gr. There is no significative diference between the two types of metal. The aluminium is more rigid than the steel that is more flexible. I haven't yet decided what choose. I have also the metalic parts for the struts, the tail wheel that I made in 3mm aluminium to give it the rounded shape of the original. And also I have the horns ( aluminium) for the flaps and ailerons. Now I have no excuse to go on. A picture for you all see how the metalic parts look alike Regards and good new year full of good flights and good buildings to all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Whiting Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 Hi Mario, Welcome back, hope you enjoyed the break. I have reworked my fin/rudder, it's now hinged as the full size aircraft. I do not expect it will make any difference in flight. The U/C looks a nice job, will you have to anneal the aluminium prior to bending? I was lazy, fitted commercial horns on rudder and elevator just because I had two pair of black horns, and cut them from 2mm fibre glass sheet for flaps and ailerons . Thats been my total out put over Christmas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supermario Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 Hi Terry And don't think the aluminium u/c have to anneal, prior to bending. When you receive yours you decide if it is necessary. For me was a suprise the weight of the u/c because I think I read somewhere someone talking in 400 gr. 200 gr is not to much for the plane. I also realise that the steel u/c was a little more heavier than actually it is. The holes reduce a lot of weight. You choose. Regards Mário Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Whiting Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 Hi Mario, I did read that someone had problems bending their aluminium U/C, but I do not know if it was just the size of his vice was the problem. The Aluminium would be wonderful. Regards Terry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supermario Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 Hi Today I made a part of the Lizzie that I did have some dificultie thinking the better way to do it.. As I said in the last post I decide to laser cut the tail wheel "leg" in 3mm aluminium and then shape it to a rounded form like the real plane. I like very match the result, Only I have to do is put a threaded wire and the silicone tube and apply to the fuse. I'm trying to wake up you guys. This cold winter is great to model building. See the picture Regards Mário Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Whiting Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 Mario, You are showing us some real scale workmanship, fantasic bit of modelling By the way, what covering have you used, natural Tex ? Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 Blimey, laser cutting aluminium - not in most of the average modellers workshop Looks great Mario. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supermario Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 Hi Terry the cover I use is natural solartex to be painted with water based paint for car painting. I will try to finish it air brushed painting like the camouflage of the real one , and last give one spray of apropriate barnish. Timbo I'm arquitect and designer and I work with many entreprises conected with decoration and design that got many resorces that I can use for modeling. Laser cut is one of them. I Know I have some kind of privilege. At last the real important thing is for us get the higger satisfaction with our hobby that in my case is a passion. Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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