Building the Nijhuis Lysander

[Supermario]

Peter

PM me with your name and adress and I send you the lenses as Cristhmas present..

 

  

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

I can't really take it for free, are there any material costs or is it just a bit of old packaging?

 

Oh and you already know my name!

 

 

Shaved 15 thousands of an inch off of the fuse box side to get the stab within a tolerance of half a mm at the tip, compared to the tops of the wing brace formers, quite proud of myself actually! Must do something about that shoddy bodge job i did of the elevators, also looks like i have bodged the rudder aswell :s. You have set the bar mario, now i must get remotely near it!

Could you tell me how you did that really clean looking hinge line?

 

I will nick your idea for the cowl blisters mario!

Did you cover the stab before you glued it in? it would seem like the logical thing to do

 

EDIT: last of all, what did you use to cut the hatches in the spats? Not really sure how long they will last on our strip! i could add a few holes on the alu U/C to adjust the wheel height

Edited By Peter Savage on 03/12/2009 01:20:12

[Supermario]

Hi Peter

1 - The lenses are made of bits of old packaging, no costs.

2 - Mine is Mário Vilaça

3- About the hinge line...my scketches are better then my english.

And a couple of pictures to ilustrate

 

4 - About blisters made by mould is not my idea, is Terry idea and I think he don't botter

if we do like him.

5 - Yes I cover the stab before I glue it, is better because I have to trim just the cover of the fuse and in the insertion of the stab with the fuse only stays a layer of cover.

6 - About cut the spats, I just use a x-acto knife. You draw the line, you make a first pass with the knife over the line just to mark the plastic and then you make a few passes until the plastic begin to open, Patiente and carefull is all you need

 

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

Your generousity is great mario, best of luck to your construction, this has spurred me on to continue, next time i'm near an ATM i will see much money i have in the bank, see if i can afford the vac form set!

[Supermario]

Hi guys

This weekend was to much rain, not good to fly but good to build

The Lizzie improve a little and I almost finish the tail.

I glue and put to shape the solid balsa block at the rear and the model begin

to look much more alike the original.

Just left to do the tail wheel.

About that if anyone of you guys knows where I can find a tail wheel for the lizzie?

I begin to make one by the plan but it seems that it  doesn't function well

A picture of the tail

[Terry Whiting]

Mario,

When visiting Old Warden I took photos of the Lysander, but none of the tail wheel.

If you use 'Google Search' and just type in 'Westland',  the Westland Lysander appears at the bottom of the list, click on, and you will find "Weston Lysander in detail" , just what you are looking for.      The pictures are very informative.    As for your model, a  very nice finished tail.

 

 I did not purchase the CNC wood pack as I  wanted to reduce weight as my model will be electric.

 All the wood sizes have been reduced throughout the build. For example    my stringers are 5mm X 2.5mm with their outer edge sanded to a radius, this will give a tube stringer affect when covered. also my fin was fabricated from 1.5mm sheet , as is the wing.

 

Just hope I have saved weight, only when finished will I know.  

 

 

[Supermario]

Hi Terry

You hit the target. When I began to build the Lizzie I just join every documentation available at the Net and one of the first that appears to me was the Weston Lysander.

I like it so much that I decided to do the same colour scheme.

The problem is the Weston Lysander tail wheel is quite diferent from the plan.

I wonder if  somewhere in a scale model store have something similar,

If I can't get it done the solution is made by myself.

Look at the scketch I done to help me to finishing the model.

You could post some picture of yours because seems to me that building the way you say

is a brave challenge

[Terry Whiting]

Hi Mario,

 

I have tried and tried to use  Photobucket, but to no avail. My trouble is I am not computer minded, and  would go as far as to say that computers and I are incompatible.

I have found that a computer is the only tool I can easily  lose patience with, it must be an age problem.

 

I did not think my Lysander build as a challenge, but built it as  one of my own designs.

I have plane built and flown a few Tony Nijhuis electric designs, but this I/C Lysander I felt over engineered for electric.

I admit I did not intend to build this model to the scale detail of yours, but just add

certain scale features.

 

  

 

 

 

[Alan Dorrell]

Hello Rookie Jim, Terry, Peter and all others

 

I'm a rookie at flying RC but started building when I was six. I'm now 78. Had a gap of nearly 30 years but started again in '07. With plenty of time to build I now have a fleet of seven models. I instantly fell in love  with TN's lizzie even before it was designed and now have the kit, A Christmas gift to myself. I wont start it yet as I have my Little Toot and my Puss Moth to complete but reckon to have three more cracking models ready for flight within 12 months.

 

Terry

 

I am also one who has difficulty getting photos posted.

 

I reckon the blog is great and hope it will all be available when I start building.

 

Alan.

[Terry Whiting]

Welcome aboard Alan.D.

We are both of the same age, . I to had a Little Toot, 1/4 scale beautiful flyer, I sold it about 4 years ago to a guy in Scotland, I often wonder if it's still flying.

 

Yes I agree this is a great blog, and I'm sure will be running for a little while yet.

 

Terry   

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

I have some good shots of the start of my construction in my build thread here: http://www.modelflying.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=32823

[rookie jim]

Alan

I can certainly  vouch for pete's thread. I found it very useful especially as like you i am very new to building.

 

Jim

[Terry Whiting]

Mario,

Have you completed the wing, as I was interested in the  weight difference in the CNC pack and my own build?  As I said previously, I scaled down the wood size.

My wing uncovered  and no servos fitted came out at 347g, but this did including brass tubing and carbon rods   

[Supermario]

Terry

I need one or two more days to put my wings at the same stage of yours

and make possible to compare the weights.

I don't use brass tube because I cant find it here in Portugal and I put alu

tube I guess the weight must be near of the brass tube because the alu have tickest

wall. After building with the laser and CNC pack I stay with the impression that the wings exagerate strenght  and if you scale it down you do a good job.

The wings are to much rigid and don't have the capacitie to absorve any shock. In case of touch in ground the fuselaje will brake imediattely, but planes are made to fly not to hit the ground.

See the pictures of my wings stage.

Have a good Sunday, Terri and all the others

Mário

 

 

[Terry Whiting]

Mario,

looks good.  The only job I  have to do on my wing is shaping the wing root blocks that fit snug to the canopy.

My canopy has a  terrible finish, it's going to spoil the model.  I have made better canopies by heat shrinking large plastic soft drink bottles over a shaped plug, then add the glazing framework with lithoplate, and double sided self adhesive Sellotape.

If I can find a plastic bottle large enough, I might do just  that.

Edited By Terry Whiting on 13/12/2009 20:29:04

[Supermario]

Terri

You are wright about the canopy. Mine is terrible to.

In the test fit canopy I notice that at the root of the wing ( where the wings tubes meet the fuselage tubes glued in F4 and F5) the canopy as near 10mm more that is gonna be sqweezed when the wings are set. I don't know what to do, when the time to fit the wings on fuselage came, I'll think of something.

Definitelly this is not a model for begginer builder.

I have many difficulties in keeping my son interest on the build, because I spend many time thinking before I do anything

 

 

[Terry Whiting]

HI Mario

[Terry Whiting]

Mario.

I do not know what happened to my previous answer so I try again

 

Shape the wing root blocks so they just touch the canopy sides.as the full size.

I realized after fitting the plan recommended size tubes to F4 & F5  that it would have been sensible to have made those tubes 88-90mm long, instead of 50mm..

This would then stopped any  excessive wing movement.

 

To overcome the problem I have added  four 20mm pieces of brass tube, two either side after I push through the carbon rods, these pieces are not epoxied, or the rods would  be unremoveable 

 

I wouldn't have thought  you have not fitted your F4 &F5 tubes yet as you have not completed the wing, so try 90mm tubes and temporary tape them in position and trial fit your canopy. 

 

 I will also be making some form of wing restraint through the canopy, as the wing struts are not functional. .

[Allan Bennett]

That doesn't seem right, Terry

 

I haven't quite got that far with my build yet, though I have built the wing structures, plugged them in so that their brass tubes butt up to the tubes in F4 and F5, and fabricated my struts to suit.  It seems quite clear to me from the front elevation in the plans, that that's the way the wings are meant to mount -- i.e. the brass tubes in the wings butting up to the brass tubes in F4 and F5 without the need for any spacers.  In fact, if I were to space them out 20mm each side, as I think you're suggesting, the lengths of the wing struts would have to be longer than shown in the plans.

 

I had assumed that, when I fit the canopy, I then may have to shape the solid balsa blocks at the wing roots so that they fit snugly into the large rectangular holes which will be cut in the canopy at that location.  That way the wings butt up to the solid central structure and, with the struts attached, there's no movement so long as there's no negative g.

[Terry Whiting]

Allan,

 

 I apologize, I should have said 5mm. pieces. The measurements I was giving were for a completely different model. Put it down to a senior moment 

 

The shaped blocks at the wing  root do not go through the  side of the canopy, only the carbon rod passes through. If you check the picture of the Tony Nijhuis model on page 60,you will see quite clearly they do not go through, Tony has replicated the fullsize

extremely well.

The canopy is dimpled where the holes should be. Hope you haven't cut your large holes yet. Allan.

Somehow I do not think I will trust to zero negative G 

 

 

Mario, 

Sorry gave you the wrong measurments.  F4 & F5 60mm and 70mm then trim to allow the canopy to fit  

 

 

   

[Allan Bennett]

OK, that sounds better

 

I haven't cut my canopy yet.  Must read the instructions before I commit to that.  Thanks for alerting me on that point, because I thought I'd read that one has to cut out the whole rectangle.

 

Just checked the mag and, yes, it clearly says "make two sets of holes on either side to accommodate the 8mm carbon wing joiners".  It then goes on to say, "...Attach the wings and note the amount of balsa infill required between the glazing and W1...".   Well I've already attached the solid balsa infill blocks to W1, so I'll just pare them back until the brass tubes protrude enough to go through the holes in the canopy with the face of the balsa just touching the outside of the glazing.

 

I now understand your point, that it would have been better for the centre brass tubes to be a little bit longer so that they would come to the outside face of the canopy glazing.

[Supermario]

Hi Terri

I Know you are ansious to Know the results of your effort to scale down the Lizzie.

One wing panel as you see in the picture, encovered, no servos or servos trays and no

solid block at the root of the wing panel, no horns .......160 g.

I think that can give you an idea, but I guess that you have a very satisfactory weight.

About the canopy, the problem is the vacuum formed canopy is larger than the profile of the plan so we need to have a compromise that don't spoil the scale look and garantee the security of the wings without change the struts. That can be done if we divide the difference, half prolong the tube and half squeeze the canopy ( sorry the english, hope you understand)

[Terry Whiting]

Mario,

Thank you, but I am rather disappointed .

I have just weight a single panel as your's and I came out at 149g, just a difference of 11g. I could have saved a further 14g if I had not included a paper tube for servo/flap wires, ( all my wing builds I include paper tubes) and used Aluminium instead of brass.

 

Really thin walled Aluminium tube is all that was necessary as it's only a guide, all the strength has to be in the ribs and carbon rods.

 

 

 

 

 

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

I hate it when you have no enthusiasm

[rookie jim]

Hi,

I have now fitted all the lonerons on. havent got a picture yet but i have a question. do the longerons need sanding down slightly to give a rounded profile for covering. not sure if i have described things correctly.

 

next step is the hatch between F4and F5 and then sheet the front although i suppose I could leave it as mario has.

 

Mario, dont worry about your english we can all understand what you are saying very easily. If only i could converse in portuguese 1/10th as well as you do in english!!

 

Jim

 

Edited to correct spelling mistakes.

 

Note to TIMBO cant you put a spell checker on?

Edited By rookie jim on 15/12/2009 21:35:07