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Building the Nijhuis Lysander


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Peter,

Yes you are thinking logically,   but some will be guided by the book, and that states the sheeting is fitted later in the wing build.
 
Brian.
 
The washout is not a mistake.
 
Carefully make a washout taper 3mm to zero 73cm long.
 Measurer the distance at W20 from the mainspar to the 3mm point .
Now measure the same distance out from the mainspar at W1. Place your taper to those measurments, and you will find W9 sits on the taper at approximately 1.5mm, but at the TE it will be 8mm.
This is due to rib size and section used.
 
My wo taper will only be 36cm in length, but still 3mm to zero, as the wo will be in the outer wing panel only , this gives a fraction more wo where needed. 
 
 
 
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Doug,
 
Continuing from where I left off,  I realised T.N used  1/7 scale, but  from what is visible in the mag photos of the engine, and the one I saw at  Slough Models were dissimilar, as the ABS engine crankcase would have virtually filled the cowl . 
 
If you still want that one, you had better phone first as they only had a couple left.
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Hi Terry,
 
the instructions that come with it say to make a 1/8" Lite-ply disk of the same size to glue it to, removing one or more cylinders to clear the real engine. The dummy push-rod tubes and ignition leads have still to be fitted then the whole thing needs to be painted. It hasn't been fixed into position yet as I'm still thinking about the engine mounting.
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