rookie jim Posted November 2, 2009 Author Share Posted November 2, 2009 Hi everyone. Its strange, i start a blog off about building the lysander and you all beat me to it. Still i am ready to start now.A number of the posts discussed washout but i havent got a clue what it is , but it sounded important. I am hoping someone out there could explain what it is and why its important in this build. I know this may be basic but i am a rookie. - both in flying and building. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Whiting Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 Jim, Please don't get my wrong, and I'm not trying to be offensive as you could have the ability to make a first class job of the Lysander, but if you a only slightly doubtful I would not recommend this as a first build model. The wing especially is rather complicated, and must be built absolutely accurate or it's first flight could well be it's last. I would encourage anyone new to this hobby to try their hand at kit or plan building, but to start with a much easier build, suitable in honing building and flying skills. When Tony Nijhuis said it was a "builders model", he was really referring to anyone with a few models under their belt If you wish to go ahead, I will certainly try and help. I have by the way almost finished the wing, just the flaps, and the wing tips to go. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Ireland Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 Tony N did say that the washout was optional and his model seems to fly well enough without it. I haven't decided yet if I will build it in or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Whiting Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 Doug, I have built washout in mine , but only in the outer panels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rookie jim Posted November 4, 2009 Author Share Posted November 4, 2009 Terry, Thanks for the advice, its much appreciated and i appeciate your honest views. I have just finished building a model from kit but i cant say i am experienced. I have already bought the lysander kit so i may as well give it a go so If it doesnt turn out ok then i wont be in much of a worse position than if i left it on the shelf and didnt use it for years. i am not looking for a quick build, but a project to keep me occupied over the winter. I will do it very slowly: there isnt any deadline so i wont be bothered if i am still doing it at easter. Many thanks for your offer of help. Doug, Interesting comment from TN. Yes i too thought the lysander flew well in the video. I would be interested in whether you do build in washout or not and your reasons. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 I think iw will put the washout in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Whiting Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 Yes I must admit the Lysander did fly extremely well in the video, but then we must take into account it was in the hands of the designer who just happens to be a Show pilot, clubman size, and with LMA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Ireland Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 Hmm, that's a fair comment Terry. if I can produce accurate wedges then I will build-in the washout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Whiting Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 Doug, I built in the w,out in the outer panels only, but reduced from 3mm to 2.4mm. A taper is much easier to cut from 6mm sheet . My method was, I made my taper length from R10-R20, and the taper was 2.4mm to zero. I drew a parallel line to the mainspar of 22mm, this is the distance between mainspar and TE of R20, my taper was pinned to that line with zero under R10. This has given me the desired washout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rookie jim Posted November 7, 2009 Author Share Posted November 7, 2009 Hi,I intend to start over the weekend. My inclination is to start with the wing rather than the fuz. I have been reading your blog peter and i think it will be quite helpful when i get to the Fuz, and tail. how are you getting on with the wings. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 This moulding might also be an option for the dummy radial - overall diameter is about 130mm but can be trimmed down. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 I have kinda paused on the wings, couldn't get the spars into the pre CNC'ed slots Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Whiting Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 Pete B, Nice find, I certainly liked it enough to make a purchase, thanks. T.W. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernie Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 Peter, Don't give up..once the wings are on that shelf, they tend to stay there for a long long time ernie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 I'll have a bench tidy up after dinner and make another start, Yorkshire Puddings!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Ireland Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 Ah, note to self Peter, don't eat yorkies off your building bench! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 :P I was about an inch away from smashing the whole wing panel Liteply wing formers and obechi spars do not mix unless it is acurrate to the micron! I think the L.E and T.E is next Edited By Peter Savage on 08/11/2009 22:36:30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rookie jim Posted November 8, 2009 Author Share Posted November 8, 2009 Changed my mind and decided to start on fuselage. mainly cos peter has already done that part and has posted some good pictures on his blog. Was that a good decision. Peter's photos came in really handy so i could check what b1,b2,b3 and b4 looked. I eventually found them on the plan but peter your pictures gave me the confidence to get started, so thanksJim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Whiting Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 Jim, If you Google " Tony Nijhuis Designs" click on "Whats New" Tony had added photos of 5 model constructions, including the Lysander. It's worth a view. It's advisable not to glue the formers until you do some stringer tests, as a former has only to be a smidge out of place to cause the 'wavey stringer look'. Produce the two inner box sides, when dry accurately mark the former positions with a pencil and square off, but remember they are handed. now finish your box. The firewall will give a certain amount of rigidity. Slide on your formers to their respective positions and clamp. Now test with a few strings. By rights they should be spot on, but 1mm can cause the stringer a rise or fall, if there is a problem, readjust the offending former,and mark it's new position. A few minutes now can save much heartache. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klippy Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 Finally got my Vacpac, now just waiting for the Kit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi g Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 Tony if you want it quicker I think you will have to move half the way around the world . I got the last bits last thursday ?? three weeks wasnt too bad, damn royal post. 50 pound freight also.. OUCH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rookie jim Posted November 9, 2009 Author Share Posted November 9, 2009 Tim Thanks for the advice, i will put it to good use especially the need to adjust formers to get stringers correct. Will check tony's photos via googlejim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rookie jim Posted November 9, 2009 Author Share Posted November 9, 2009 My last posting should have said Terry not Tim. Must be the stress of the build. my apologies Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 I measured back from F1 for the former placing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rookie jim Posted November 13, 2009 Author Share Posted November 13, 2009 Well i have completed the first part B1-5 at last, but only after a mishap. glued B5 in wrong handed so the sides werent even when joined at rear. managed a rescue and now OK. I will have to read the notes far more critically in future. Still at least i realised it looked wrong so thats a start. Terry i am working on formers using your suggestion and peter's method of measuring as a double check. Deep breath and on to the next stage. # Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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