Building the Nijhuis Lysander

[John Laverick]

Terry,

Glad you got it,  as it happens I didn't anneal the metal, because the plastic spats hide a multitude of sins there's really no reason to bend it at right angles. so long as both sides are the same it works out just fine.

 

To be fair it did take a lot of hard work to bend it, so annealing it would obviously make it a lot easier, however I have a large vice, a big hammer and I weigh 17 stone so there was only one winner.

 

regards

 

John

 

[Terry Whiting]

John,

 

At 17 stone and wielding a big hammer I shouldn't think there was much of a contest,

 

[Papa]

Hi Guy's I just received my packs and getting serious about the Lysander. I really appreciate this forum as it removes a great number of stumbling blocks for me. One question, I'm not familiar with the term "3mm studding". I'm assuming it is 3mm threaded rod? If not what is it?

 

Thank you,

 

Jack Higgins

Toronto.

 

[Terry Whiting]

Hi Jack, (no pun intended) 

 

I think we have sampled a little of your weather here in the UK, before you laugh, I did say 'little'

 

Yes you are spot on it's 3mm threaded rod, and the best with your build. 

[Papa]

Hi Terry,

 

thank you for the answer. It;s a balmy 36 degrees here, if it gets any warmer I'll break out the shorts. In all sincerity it's one thing when you know your going to have 4-5 months of snow and cold and it must be a real pain when you are not equipped or prepared. I saw it on BBC world. I hope you all drive nice and safe or stay indoors a hoist a Newcastle Brown for me.

 

Jack.

Edited By Papa on 15/01/2010 20:08:45

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

Been designing a depron aircraft, i have found myself using a strange variety of metric and imperial i'll leave it as a secret, the only information i will divuldge is its called the ECola Gay! and it has nothing to do with homosexuality!

 

Fancied a change from the lysander, need more monies for the rest of the parts, i think i shift from project to project a bit too much :P must be others like me!

[Terry Whiting]

Jack,

 

Newcastle Brown?, funny you should say that as I have a case in the pantry, the trouble is they are a bit moreish, too many of them I would be seeing double , and my Lysander could end up as a bi-plane,      but anyway, one up to you mate....cheers . 

 

Terry 

                                                   ,  

[John Laverick]

Terry,

got your cheque this morning.There really was no need to send that much, but thanks anyway.

 

Jack hope you enjoy your build as much as I did.

 

Guys, I've added a pair of the attachment thingies on the spats which hold the bombs on. don't know what they're called. I'll send a couple of photos. Anyway the reason I did it is because they sit forward of the balance point and  I think they will be ideal to attach some sticky lead on should I need to mess with the C of G.

 

On the note of Newcastle Brown Ale, I used to build my planes in my room whilst sipping on the amber nector, Convinced I'd done a good job I'd go to bed happy, wake up the next day and undo all the good work I thought I'd done the previous night!!!! I now only drink wine in my room while building, it doesn't seem to give me such a wonkey eye

 

 

Regards

 

John

[Alan Dorrell]

Peter,

 

If you are into Depron, go to list 5 on Blogs and Builds  and log onto Building a Vulcan by Glenn Moore. Mind Blowing !!!

 

Cheers. Alan.

[rookie jim]

Hi,

mario ,peter, your help has proved successful. I have finished the Fin and although I say it myself its not too bad. Probably not up to the standards that you terry and alan and others  are able to produce but i am happy with it. I suppose when i deck the whole thing and write it off it wont really matter!!!!

 

However enough of that pessimism. must think glass half full.

 

i am now moving onto the rudder and yet again i am stuck.Its probably that i dont understand the plans as its only my second build and my first one had all the parts precut so it wasnt like the lizzie. I have cut the 3mm core but the the wood pack doesnt have any 9mm sheet balsa which is needed for the leading edge. also the plan seems to show two strips an inner and outer le.? also some ribs at the very bottom which seem to run over the l.e. and a strange wider ribbing at the top left which i assume are glued onto the core.

 

my query is can i make up the l.e by gluing together a number of thinner sheets/pieces of balsa and what are the pieces of ribbing at top and bottom

 

Jim

 

 

 

[rookie jim]

whoops!

 

i have been looking at petes blog ad the TN build photos of the fin and it looks like i may have missed something.

 

pete.-

your fin seems to have aan extended bottom piece that goes into the fuselage whereas i have built mine to be to the shape that fits on the top of the sheeting.

 

do i need to add a bit on to the bottom. i must admit i couldnt tell from the plan that there was an extra bit but i can see that it makes sense and allows the fi to sit on the inner box between F10  and F11 i assume.

 

mario,

in your photo of the fin  i assume the extended bottom pirce is covered by the sheeting.

 

i should have looked at the pictures before i went ahead i know.

 

jim

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

Well the drawing is a bit complicated, with the mass of dotted lines, dashed lines, i could not see where the front sheet ended!

 

Yes it does have a bit sticking down, Don't worrky, you are bound to make some mistakes! Heck i've made millions of mistakes! when i was making an aluminium silencer extension, i went and twisted the milling machine handle the wrong way and ground a massive groove into it!

[Terry Whiting]

Hi Jim,

 

The plan is not one of the easiest to read,   but fear not

 

Thousands of models have the fin glued directly to the fuselage.

Mine is indirectly the same, but it's a built up fin with two 4mm dowls added in the build, these are glued through two 3mm X 20mm cross members which I glue across the top of the fuselage box between F10 & 11 .   .,

 

In answere to your 9mm problem, yes just make it up from 3mm sheet. 

Make your fin as Mario's scetch, and taper it down to about 4-5mm at it's tip , your rudder leading edge/ hinge post wants the same corresponding taper.

I only used a 1.5mm sheet rudder core. This was glued to a centre line of the rudder's LE, and from scrap 1.5mm sheet  made the riblets.

 

Always give a shout if in doubt 

[Allan Bennett]

Posted by rookie jim on 18/01/2010 23:09:57:

whoops!

 

i have been looking at petes blog ad the TN build photos of the fin and it looks like i may have missed something.

 

pete.-

your fin seems to have aan extended bottom piece that goes into the fuselage whereas i have built mine to be to the shape that fits on the top of the sheeting.

 

do i need to add a bit on to the bottom. i must admit i couldnt tell from the plan that there was an extra bit but i can see that it makes sense and allows the fi to sit on the inner box between F10  and F11 i assume.

 

mario,

in your photo of the fin  i assume the extended bottom pirce is covered by the sheeting.

 

i should have looked at the pictures before i went ahead i know.

 

jim

 I made the same mistake, though I realised it (by looking at photos in this thread) when I was only part way through making a hollow, bult-up, fin.  So I was able to splice in a couple of extension posts before adding the second side of sheeting.

[Supermario]

Hi Jim

A plan for building an aeroplane is always a guide.

We need to spend a lot of time studying it to define the more correct way to do the things drawn in the plan before begon.

A modeller with a lot of experience in building as better knowledge of thecnics of work that give him a chance to choose between the thecnic he think is more apropriate for that or other specific detail .

All that just to say to you that everybody do what can do with the proposal of geting the plane in the air with the better look possible.

When I show you my work I show the way I do the things. Is not the better, is not the worst but is my way.

don't worry if you have doughts, and make mistakes because always we learn something.

This is a team

In what we can be useful, Terry, Peter, John me and all the others just

say

Some pictures

Regards

Mário 

[rookie jim]

well i said this build will be a big learning curve. well i finished the fin and have a rudder so its now onto elevators.

 

i got the cnc pack out ton get the T numbered ribs and what did i find but a cnc fin, all cut to shape just needs the 4 pieces gluing together and shaping. (the wood is 6mm) i am going to have another go at the fin and use the one that looks best.

 

cant see anything for the rudder though but i am going to idebtify all the bits still in the cnc kit before i go any further just to make sure,.

 

i never thought to check still i will know better next model.

 

actuall got down to the field tday and had a couple of flights. desparate to get off buddy lead (hopefully soon) and then get my A certificate so i can fly the lizzie on my own.

 

Jim

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

Yeah, cut some 3mm sheet balsa for the rudder core

[Terry Whiting]

Hi Jim,

 

How is the fin and rudder coming on?

 

John Laveriick very kindly sent me a section of high grade aluminium  3mm sheet, from this my grandson cut two undercarriage sections which look really professional.

All the required holes are drilled as per plan.

If you would like one just PM me your postal addess.

 

Regards  Terry.

[rookie jim]

Hi Terry,

that is very kind of you . than you very much. i have PM my address.

 

As to the fin and rudder the fin is done and for the rudder i just have to put the blocks in to take the control horns which i have got and sprayed them black. The CNC fin turned out the best so i will use that

 i am now moving on to the stabiliser. i have identified all the cnc parts now so  i know there arent any others lurking around.

 

As for the stabiliser i intend to unpin from the plan this morning (saturday) and sand the le to shape and then hopefully this weekend do some sheeting. time permitting.

the one question i had is at what time is it best to cover with solar fim or similar. my instinct says that i should cover fin,stabiliser elevators wings and ailerons before they are fitted to fuselage.

 

just had to edit itthev 2nd time to get out all the blank lines

 

regards

 

jim

Edited By rookie jim on 30/01/2010 10:47:38

Edited By rookie jim on 30/01/2010 10:49:13

[Geoff Daunt]

Hi Guys,

What a great Blog.I have been following for a while and now have the(full) CNC kit.

I have just finished building a Greenly Glider tug with a DA50 petrol engine up front and currently running in the engine.

Nothing left to build at present so this was a project to go for.I have a reasonable amount of experience building but am no expert but l just love to have a go rather than all out of a box!!!!!

I am currently in Spain so not that far from"Supermario"....just wish l had his skills.!! Great build.

I could not build the undercarriage as per plan and bend 3mm Al. so l have ordered a ready made one from Carbon Copy-CCU08. This is a sweft leg carbon composite and just about the same size as per the plan.A tad expensive at 23 GBP  but it looks as if it will do the job and take out a lot of hassle for me. I have had one of thier products before and can vouch for the quality which is very good.

A few early questions.

1.Any reason for the 2 small holes top left in BO3

2. I was going to ask about the pin hole in F1 but......the blog has dealt with that..thanks

3. l have built the box and glued F1 in position and trial fitted all the formers.l see it is a very tight fit between F1 and F2.  Did any of you drill and fit the engine mount at this stage or do it later.? Just trying to plan ahead to avoid difficulties later.

4.I would also like to have ago at the landing lights. Can any of you advise how to go about this re set up etc. I intend to source a cheap small torch for the reflector but other than that not sure how to go abot the rest.I know l can source some lights and leads from the Ad,s in RCM&E but that,s about it Never put any form of lights before in a model

I will be using a JR DS9 receiver so plenty of channels.

Let's keep building......

[rookie jim]

HI Geoff,

welcome to the blog. I have fitted my engine mount. I did it when i had finished the stringers on the fuselage and the sheeting between F1 ands F4, although on reflection it would have been a bit easier to do it before fitting the sheeting as it would have been easier to fit the lower blind nuts. on page 12 of the blog mario has a really great picture to help with line up etc.

 

as for the holes in B03 thats a very good question. i had forgotten about them. That is the area for the fuel tank so whether its anything to do with that i dont know.

 

good luck with your build.

 

Jim

[Terry Whiting]

JIm,

Yes  that is my practice as it's so much easier to cover fins and stabilisers prior to fitting.

 

What stage are with the fuselage?  

 

 

PS

Jim,   No address  received as yet

Edited By Terry Whiting on 30/01/2010 14:49:12

[Terry Whiting]

Hi Geoff,

Welcome to the blog. The Greenly is  a great work horse, and a good introduction

into Large model flying.

 

As for the landing lights I have made a cheap little switch system  by using a 3g servo and a micro switch from my Odds&Sods box.

The switch is glued to the servo in position for the servo arm to operate the M/switch. The servo is plugged into the flap channel via a Y-lead This will be housed with the required batteries where the undercarriage is mounted to the fuselage.

This section of the fuselage has been made as a hatch for easy access for the batteries.

 

The lights I did go OTT price wise. They are High Density LED's removed from two key rings purchased from Homebase. These show up even in the brightest sunshine.  

 

[rookie jim]

hi terry,

second attempt to post reply. first disappeared as system said i wasnt logged in.

 

sent address to email address from which you sent photos. not had any rejection email.

 

where am i on fuselage you ask. well the egine mount is on. i have sheeted F1 to 4.

stringers on from 4 to 10 and f7 fitted. also fitted the balsa filler to outline canopy.

 

getting bits together such as brass tube, rudder closed loop system, etc.

 

tonight i applied first sheet on to stabiliser and the balsa blocks to rudder for control horn.

 

model shop suggested solartex for covering but havent got that yet. they also suggested using the wooden dwoel method to connect elevato to servo as there isnt asny supporting holes in formers for snakes. intend to use  a spektrum digital servo for elevator and standard JR servos for throttle anf rudder.

 

i am still deciding on aileron and flap servos . the higher speced thin hitec servos suitable for the wings are 22 quid each. standard thin ones about half of that.

 

jim

 

[Papa]

Hi Geoff, an alternate way of handling the lights is to use an Rx switch such as this one.

 

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8833

 

They cost just under $7 in Hong Kong. and you can get some unique led's with batteries at the Pound Store I think you call them. We call them Dollar Stores. My grand daughter picked up four finger lights that are 3mm led's in green, red, white and blue with three lithium watch batteries in each for a dollar.

 

Jack Higgins,

Toronto

Edited By Papa on 30/01/2010 22:30:11

Edited By Papa on 30/01/2010 22:31:15